Tightwad at wallyworld

[modok]

Any oil on the shelf at a store for idiots will meet certain quality standards to make is suitable for use in cars 5-10 years old.
So, the IDEA is, you can't go wrong.
But
Is it suitable for use in a motorcycle,
in a VINTAGE motorcycle?
WHO KNOWS.

It's your motorcycle, you tell us what kind of oil it needs.

[modok]

As an experiment I ran an old 1970's Ford V8 on hypoid oil for a couple of months.

It's viscosity seemed lower than 80/90, about #30 on the Ford "main bearing rumble" index.

The old Engine ran fine but the exhaust had a differential like odor.

I appreciate you sharing that. Some people are afraid to experiment, others are fearless, I think there is SOME truth on both sides.
For instance. Old guys with motorcycles, aircooled, ect, still "know" that
"you have to run castrol because our engines run hot and normal oil can't take the heat"

and, LONG ago that was true. Of coarse it was.

NOW, it may have actually reversed.
Modern engines run very hot now, with real THIN high silicon pistons which get smoking hot underneath, and the oil is formulated for it, and what can actually happen in some vintage applications is some parts of the engine actually don't run hot ENOUGH, so some of the additives won't activate.

One of the differences with gear oil can be the temp they are aiming for, the EP and detergents are different for that.
so, gear oil in an old ford, depending on when that was, you might have been HALF right.

As always, it's about temperature and clearances, and what parts are inside.

[GARY C]

I'm curious what issues you encountered when you used lower price oil??

One would think with my oil mixing I would have destroyed at least 1 Engine by now .

How do you know you always get what you pay for?? Could there be a profit motive??

As an experiment I ran an old 1970's Ford V8 on hypoid oil for a couple of months.

It's viscosity seemed lower than 80/90, about #30 on the Ford "main bearing rumble" index.

The old Engine ran fine but the exhaust had a differential like odor.

As previously mentioned, I'm only sharing my experiences, not offering advice.

I'm not convinced quality and price always go hand in hand as advertised.

Some newer Engines are chewing up roller cam/lifters with "quality" oil.

Could it be the oil quality is lacking but not the oil price??

Advertising looks good.

How do we know??

Thanks
Randy

In my opinion (Quality has a price) and you get what you pay for. Oil is like our blood if it is good we will live healthy, if oil doesn't have the right aditives they will not protect or even destroy your good engine why gamble. There are no miracles.


For sure no one is going to use a hypoid oil in an engine. It is still a oil but probably for a diferencial.

I used Castrol GTX Conventional Motor Oil 10w 30 from my 20's in everything I owned including my nitrous SBC engines when I was drag racing, I never had a rod or main bearing I couldn't reuse, I was told you can't do that and later tried some magic $14.00 per qt "Trick Dick" oil (My machinists term based on years of dyno testing) but later when it showed no power improvement on the dyno and the fact that no shelf oil had ever shown bearing damage I went back to shelf oil. The only engine that I ran Mobil 1 in consistently was a BBC with a Comp XE hyd flat tappet cam, was told you can't do that with a hyd flat tappet, It was still running flawless when sold years later.

I would run Walmart synthetic in a heart beat if I was going to waste money on synthetic.

I will say synthetic gear lube in a 4 spd was quieter and either shifted better or it just seemed that way because it was noticeably quieter although I have no idea how old the lube was that I had been running.

[GARY C]

This thread just got me to thinking about the oil change I just did on my 09 2500HD 6.0 gas LS so I went and dug up the oil container.

How soon should it blow up?

[RCJ]

You get what you pay for. If you are having good luck with low cost oil keep using it.What the oil is doing is meeting your expectations and your motor is not stressing the oil enough to hurt any thing.You will see a difference in oil when you get out on the edge.

[Little Mouse]

If you were to buy a new 8 class rig last time I talked about one say 8 years ago the transmission was warranty to 500,000 miles with regular gear oil, if you run synthetic gear oil they increase the warranty to 750,000 miles. As far as my triumph engine cycle I took off from just north of dfw tx with 60 miles on it to San Diego, went to triumph dealer there to get new filter and the man drags out 10w 40 Castrol blended says this is what the motorcycle has in it from factory, I say I want the same weight but full syn so he drags it out. Since that time I have ran 10w 40 full syn this last time amzoil brand. But I think I'm going to do 20w 50 full syn from now on but no doubt what I have been using viscosity is working, I'm just thinking summer heat of tx and I do longer trips then most folks the 20 w 50 may be better. The 50, 60, 70 weight strait mineral Lucas plus some of it claims to be motorcycle racing oil and they use it in top fuel supposedly and it is detergent. Mostly just kidding about using it, but I have convinced myself over the years that full syn oils are better and I dont really care about costs.

[raynorshine]

This thread just got me to thinking about the oil change I just did on my 09 2500HD 6.0 gas LS so I went and dug up the oil container.

How soon should it blow up?

it's gonna blow up real quick Gary....sell it immediately

[GARY C]

This thread just got me to thinking about the oil change I just did on my 09 2500HD 6.0 gas LS so I went and dug up the oil container.

How soon should it blow up?

it's gonna blow up real quick Gary....sell it immediately

Lets hope not, my goal is to drive it for another 20 years.

[lefty o]

This thread just got me to thinking about the oil change I just did on my 09 2500HD 6.0 gas LS so I went and dug up the oil container.

How soon should it blow up?

it's gonna blow up real quick Gary....sell it immediately

Lets hope not, my goal is to drive it for another 20 years.

just pour some slick50 in it, it'll run a long time with no oil in it. honest, saw it on tv once.

[lefty o]

I'm glad you noticed!!

It was on old truck and I was willing to sacrifice the Engine just to know if it would blow up.

Attached is another experiment that worked out great, can you figure it out??

Hint: Its not what most think.

Thanks
Randy

As an experiment I ran an old 1970's Ford V8 on hypoid oil for a couple of months.

It's viscosity seemed lower than 80/90, about #30 on the Ford "main bearing rumble" index.

The old Engine ran fine but the exhaust had a differential like odor.

I appreciate you sharing that. Some people are afraid to experiment, others are fearless, I think there is SOME truth on both sides.
For instance. Old guys with motorcycles, aircooled, ect, still "know" that
"you have to run castrol because our engines run hot and normal oil can't take the heat"

and, LONG ago that was true. Of coarse it was.

NOW, it may have actually reversed.
Modern engines run very hot now, with real THIN high silicon pistons which get smoking hot underneath, and the oil is formulated for it, and what can actually happen in some vintage applications is some parts of the engine actually don't run hot ENOUGH, so some of the additives won't activate.

One of the differences with gear oil can be the temp they are aiming for, the EP and detergents are different for that.
so, gear oil in an old ford, depending on when that was, you might have been HALF right.

As always, it's about temperature and clearances, and what parts are inside.

looks like some sort of home made air oil separator.

[raynorshine]

This thread just got me to thinking about the oil change I just did on my 09 2500HD 6.0 gas LS so I went and dug up the oil container.

How soon should it blow up?

it's gonna blow up real quick Gary....sell it immediately

Lets hope not, my goal is to drive it for another 20 years.

i've got something similar, 05' silverado, Wallyworld no name conventional 5/30 oil, 200,000 miles...uses no oil...probably another 20 yrs too

[GARY C]

it's gonna blow up real quick Gary....sell it immediately

Lets hope not, my goal is to drive it for another 20 years.

just pour some slick50 in it, it'll run a long time with no oil in it. honest, saw it on tv once.

Funny you say that, this guy destroys several engines testing different products like that. He does other videos with Lucus, Zmax and STP.

[GARY C]

it's gonna blow up real quick Gary....sell it immediately

Lets hope not, my goal is to drive it for another 20 years.

i've got something similar, 05' silverado, Wallyworld no name conventional 5/30 oil, 200,000 miles...uses no oil...probably another 20 yrs too

I bought my 09 in 2014, I have only put a little over 10,000 miles on it since, it's now a little over 160,000. I need to get my 93 daily back on the road so I don't rack up miles on my 09.

My 93 has around 270,000 the original owner always used conventional Pennzoil 10-30, it still runs perfect but I got hit at the end of last year and I just haven't got around to fixing it yet.

[n2omike]

I run the Supertech Synthetic High Mileage in all of my daily drivers. Cost is $16 for a 5-quart container. Change it at 6k miles or so, and all is good.

He did a test on grease recently. He compared Lucas Red 'n' Tacky to generic light duty Supertech, and the Lucas won by a HUGE margin.... so I'd stick with Lucas there. Oil, Supertech is great for the daily drivers. Haven't gotten up the nerve to use it in any kind of race car yet.

Grease Test

[modok]

I don't know what it is, I really don't!

Attached is another experiment that worked out great, can you figure it out??