Tightwad at wallyworld

[rfoll]

I can attest to the fact that all oils are not equal. I had been running VR1 in my 406 equipped with a hydraulic flat tappet circle track cam. It was an older Crane High Intensity grind with about .525 lift. I had been told and read that the Rotella was the hot tip for flat tappet cams and began using it to save money. Shortly afterwards, Shell and most other companies changed their formulations to meet new restrictions on diesel emissions. My next oil change got the new stuff, and the lifters would clatter after a pass down the track, the car would slow down, and it would not get better until the next day. I read later they had changed the anti-foam package and I was apparently aerating my oil and collapsing the lifters. I will never run diesel formulations in my gas engines again.

[novafornow]

I don't know what it is, I really don't!

Attached is another experiment that worked out great, can you figure it out??

Looks like an oil catch can for PCV system.??

[RW TECH]

There is nothing wrong with Super Tech oil.

The stuff is blended at a bulk blender site just like pretty much everything else. Additive package is provided by 1 of a small few sources, pretty much like everything else, then bottling & packaging is handled by a bulk packager, again pretty much like everything else.

One of my racers uses 20W50 Wal-Mart Super Tech oil in his pavement late model that always turns well over 8K RPM at the end of the chutes. Oil change is maybe twice per season & racing is almost every weekend, sometimes two nights a week.

During teardown analysis (each season since 2001) I did not see any iron transfer from pins to piston pin bores or rod bushing ID's, no mircro-welding on rings and no groove pound-out. Coated bearings looked like brand-new. Zero signs of distress anywhere.

Don't be swayed by marketing statements or emotional outbursts from people who can't accept that a product is good unless its a certain color of if it doesn't cost enough. If you have to go with the route of popularity then you should be using Mobil 1. They have phenomenal process controls & product consistency.....Lower volume "boutique" blenders usually don't do as well that way.

[Little Mouse]

Have decided on an oil in this new oil discussion thread for my water cooled triumph. Mobile 1 has what they call 4T racing full syn 10w 40 ment for watercooled 4 stroke motorcycles, it's based on top tier V base and has 1200 ppm of zinc.

[RCJ]

My number 1 rule for oil is you get what you pay for.
No 2 .Use the oil that is designed for what you are doing. Diesel oil in a diesel ,drag race oil in a drag car, kart oil in a kart...
3. Don't waste time dynoing oils
4. pick the weight by oil temp , bearing clearances by, .001 x journal diameter
5. Synthetics are better

[RCJ]

We had found a low cost house brand oil that made 6hp more than brad Penn. During the second night the oil pressure dropped. Changed back at the track and the oil pressure came back.
How it was explained to me was a cheaper oil starts with a lower quality base stock and pump it up with additives. Then additives will break down quicker. A premium oil starts with a high quality base and will hold up longer and stronger.
One other thing. The company I work for only does contract work. You give the specs ,we build to your specs. The oil could come out of the same factory and be a totally different oil . Who provides the specs for Wal-Mart oil? Do you think wal mart does the R-D that Amsoil or Gibbs.

[RCJ]

It was 20/50 Brad Penn vs 20/50 O'riellys house brand oil.When poring it out of the bottles you could see that the o'riellys was thinner. We were not monitoring oil temp ,so in hindsight I don't know how valid the test were. After the first test all other test are actually contaminated because there will always be some left over oil from the previous oil.
Some friends of mine found some hp with an ultra lite oil for their drag car.When they went to the track the car was slower.What they found was, the oil was so lite that under real world conditions they were getting metal to metal contact.

[vht]

Around 10 years ago I worked at a Ford dealership and they broufgt in a 5.4 that was rattling pretty good when warm and the oil pressure would drop to 0. It was about 100 miles shy of running out of warranty. First thing they wanted was an oil change, motorcraft oil and filter. I pulled the plug and about 1/2 a coffee cup run out so I poked a screw driver up in the hole and a little more run out. The oil filter was Motorcraft I took off but looked 10 years old. I pulled a valve cover and you couldn't see the cam and rockers, solid big hunk of sludge. I wondered how and the hell an engine got this bad in a little over 35000 miles. The owner came in and said on his first and only oil change he used oil that was good for 100,000 miles!! A whole lot of short trips and around town driving was the result of the mess. Ford didn't warranty it.

[pdq67]

"IF", and I mean, "IF", I was anal about oil, I would mix this up and use it! And I would try to use the base syn. so weight that I mix up so my lube's mixture weight stays the same..

Best Syn. oil out there;
A pint of 100 percent pure soy biodiesel; and
A pint of good old EOS

To mix and equal a fill-up amount of lube.

My reasons being...

Syn. for purity and longevity;

Biodiesel for KNOWN lubricity, and

EOS for its known additive package! (IF the EPA hasn't made them change it from the last time I used it?)...


BUT I am not anal about my engine oil so I used W/W's Tech2000 stuff. The price is right and it does what I want..

pdq67

[falcongeorge]

I'm glad you noticed!!

It was on old truck and I was willing to sacrifice the Engine just to know if it would blow up.

Attached is another experiment that worked out great, can you figure it out??

Hint: Its not what most think.

Thanks
Randy

I notice you are using the "Mild"? Daily driver right? So street/strip motors you would use "Medium", and race motors would get the "Extra Hot"?

[Krooser]

CenPeCo SAE30W is this years selection of oil for my fresh 388 dirt motor.

I used this stuff in the 80's in my race cars and trucks... good stuff and about $6/qt.