Copper head gaskets

[1972ho]

I ordered a SCE copper head gasket without checking the procedures for there use and I know there are threads on this subject but some wasn’t really clear if this type gasket can be used in a low compression low hp engine with out the use of metal orings and receiver grooves.So I just want to double check to see if copper head gaskets can be used without the receiver grooves and metal orings before I send them back.

[roc]

The'll likely leak coolant or oil. I'd return them.

[FC-Pilot]

Which series of gaskets did you get. 15 years ago I used a number of their gaskets that had a “ring if you will” built in where a fire ring would be on a normal gasket. It was so you could use them without the o-ring and receiver groove setup. They worked fine for me, but were a little bit of a pain if you tried running coolant. Most of what I did was alky injected drag stuff with no coolant so it was not a problem. I later switched to felpro mls style gaskets, and have stuck with mls stuff ever since.

Short story long, it depends on which ones you got.

Paul

[tenxal]

I ordered a SCE copper head gasket without checking the procedures for there use and I know there are threads on this subject but some wasn’t really clear if this type gasket can be used in a low compression low hp engine with out the use of metal orings and receiver grooves.So I just want to double check to see if copper head gaskets can be used without the receiver grooves and metal orings before I send them back.

What did SCE say when you checked with them?

[rebelrouser]

Lots of vintage engines used copper head gaskets with no firerings. On performance engines I always use a fire ring in the block, only put a receiver groove in the head if it's supercharged or really high compression. Most of the time water leaks with copper gaskets I have found is due to the fire rings being installed to tall out of the block. If the rings are cut right I have had no issues. I have also seen when using the Isky hand cutter, to cut the rings, that if you are not careful you will get highs and lows as the depth of the cut is not consistent. I would see no issue using a standard copper head gasket on a low compression engine. You most likely have to go old school and re-torque it after a few heat cycles. I use spray copper coat directly on the gaskets, and Motoseal brushed around the water ports. Motoseal is a thin silicone sealer designed for metal to metal applications like motorcycle cases, it works great for copper head gaskets. Soft copper has a lot of give to it, then work hardens with heat. MLS gaskets made of stainless have almost no give to them, that is why really smooth surface machining is recommended, stainless is tuff but does not conform well. Copper has give, and gets tuff with use, so on a low compression engine why wouldn't it work well? And if you check many older vintage engines used them, and when you rebuild them that is what you still get.



https://www.thehardwarecity.com/product ... gJ06vD_BwE

[novafornow]

I have done it. As stated above, spray with copper coat.

[1972ho]

I haven’t got it yet I won’t see it until Friday but I have the part number SCE 829-p521532L.

[GerryP]

Any reason you're using copper head gaskets?

I've never used them myself and never had a specific need to. Everything I know about them is from the anecdotes of others. I've used steel shim and MLS and just about everything in between. Never copper.

If this is for a water-cooled application, as others have noted, there can be some sealing issues. So, I guess the crux of my curiosity is that it's kind of like the choice of inviting rowdy or well-mannered guests for dinner. One of those groups just might trash your house, so why would you take that chance if it's not absolutely necessary?

[dondon]

many years ago (47) I had a 340 mopar with 13. to 1 compression. blew both head gaskets, bought some keith black copper head gaskets and a can of gaskasynch. put them in without Oringing the block, ran it that way for 3 years. leaked a little water the first time I started it, until the engine heated up, nothing after that. Probably dumb luck, I didn't know any better then, hopefully I learned something since then.

[FC-Pilot]

I haven’t got it yet I won’t see it until Friday but I have the part number SCE 829-p521532L.

Those look like the standard copper gaskets that per their instructions require o-rings. If I were in your shoes and this is a basic performance build then I would use a basic felpro or equivalent head gasket. Probably cheaper too.

Paul

[tenxal]

I haven’t got it yet I won’t see it until Friday but I have the part number SCE 829-p521532L.

If you're looking for copper head gaskets that don't require the o-ringing lash up, give Clark Copper Head Gaskets a call. They're in Blaine, Mn. (763) 786-9590 Make sure and talk with them regarding their recommendation for block/head surface finish...most important.

Hope this helps.

[pdq67]

My old '48 Dodge 5-pass coupe that I paid $80 for had a multilayer copper head gasket on it.

As well as some burnt valves and cracked exhaust seats. But the old sucker ran down the road fine after I got it started.

pdq67

[Alaskaracer]

The'll likely leak coolant or oil. I'd return them.

No, they won't. Copper coat, let dry, second coat, let dry. Install. Mine have NEVER leaked water or oil. Try getting my heads off too. They act like they've been superglued in place. O-ring head if on the bottle or very high compression, supercharged. Fine without at lower compression or non power adder engines.

[Mikej26]

I’m currently running a set of copper mr gasket head gaskets on my sbc without o-rings. Stock deck height so I wanted something thin. Copper sprayed them thoroughly and haven’t had any issues.