383 sbc. Build?

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econo racer
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383 sbc. Build?

Post by econo racer »

Who makes rods and crank pistons
That clear the block cheap for a daily driver? Cast is fine
Little Mouse
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Re: 383 sbc. Build?

Post by Little Mouse »

Scat rotating assembles, or eagle. You will still have to clearance the lower part of the block.
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Re: 383 sbc. Build?

Post by ProPower engines »

There is alot of assemblies on the market so depending on rod length and style of rod either H beam or I beam and the length center to center will tell you how much prep will be needed.

Basically just figure for block prep you will need to slightly widen and deepen the factory rod bolt reliefs at the bottom of the bores about 1/4" to be safe. Do all that before you bore the block so there is no sharp edges left to score the skirts.
Any areas notched in the bores radius the area so after its hones there is no sharp edges left.
The pan rail front and rear may need a tune up here and there but lay the crank in the block and check.
I shoot for min. .060 clearance for rods and crank counter weights to the block.
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econo racer
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Re: 383 sbc. Build?

Post by econo racer »

Its gonna be a $1000 budget for the crank rod and pistons. Just gonna run I beams-5.7 rod. 5500 rpm max. Do the cap screw rods usually clear better?
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Re: 383 sbc. Build?

Post by rustbucket79 »

Cap screw rods have a better chance of clearing the cam lobes on cylinders 1,2,5,6.
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Re: 383 sbc. Build?

Post by ProPower engines »

econo racer wrote: Thu Mar 05, 2020 10:54 pm Its gonna be a $1000 budget for the crank rod and pistons. Just gonna run I beams-5.7 rod. 5500 rpm max. Do the cap screw rods usually clear better?
So why not go 6" rod. Better rod length to stroke ratio no extra cost. Lots of cheap kits out there.
Better all the way around.
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Re: 383 sbc. Build?

Post by dfarr67 »

On mine I went with 5.7in rods, I didn't like the 6in rods because of oil ring impingement- but how do they really hand out in a DD ?
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Re: 383 sbc. Build?

Post by ProPower engines »

Much less bore and piston wear on a daily look at the more modern stuff it took 50 years to correct.
Your concern about the oil ring is unfounded there is no issues with a spacer in the 3rd groove.
Many different piston options this was a way to save cost on manufacturing and ring options.

Used 100's of sets like that various engine combo's no issues on 30 years =D>
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Re: 383 sbc. Build?

Post by travis »

I’ve used the budget Scat 3.75” stroke crank and 5.7” capscrew rods on a number of 383’s...I’ve never had any cam clearance issues even with standard base circle cams, but always have to clearance around the pan rails in 3 or 4 spots.
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Re: 383 sbc. Build?

Post by CGT »

The only 383 I've ever done that didn't need anything clearanced at all was with a turned down OE 400 crank with 400 rods.
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Re: 383 sbc. Build?

Post by rfoll »

One of the 383 builds I did had plenty of clearance at the pan rail, either a Mexican 4 bolt block or an 880 block, I don't remember which anymore. For a 5500 rpm street engine, stock rods, maybe powdered metal will work fine. Spend the money saved on more important parts like optimum heads and cam.
So much to do, so little time...
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Re: 383 sbc. Build?

Post by 77cruiser »

CGT wrote: Fri Mar 06, 2020 4:19 pm The only 383 I've ever done that didn't need anything clearanced at all was with a turned down OE 400 crank with 400 rods.
Scat Procomp rods have more clearance than 400 rods.
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Re: 383 sbc. Build?

Post by econo racer »

I went thru my storage shed and I have a set of speedpro F2256 30 over 350 pistons and a set of stock 400 rods with arp bolts and were reconditioned then I never used them. I have a stock 400 crank but the key way is wore out.
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Re: 383 sbc. Build?

Post by rebelyell »

econo racer wrote: Fri Mar 06, 2020 7:37 pm I went thru my storage shed and I have a set of speedpro F2256 30 over 350 pistons and a set of stock 400 rods with arp bolts and were reconditioned then I never used them. I have a stock 400 crank but the key way is wore out.
So, have a local auto machine shop cut a new keyway 180" from the worn one
and turn the crank's main jourmals down for 350 bearings
and, once you have #1 piston in hole at TDC, file a new TDC Zero groove on your damper

cheeep original-style 383
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Re: 383 sbc. Build?

Post by turbo camino »

rebelyell wrote: Fri Mar 06, 2020 8:36 pm
econo racer wrote: Fri Mar 06, 2020 7:37 pm I went thru my storage shed and I have a set of speedpro F2256 30 over 350 pistons and a set of stock 400 rods with arp bolts and were reconditioned then I never used them. I have a stock 400 crank but the key way is wore out.
So, have a local auto machine shop cut a new keyway 180" from the worn one
and turn the crank's main jourmals down for 350 bearings
and, once you have #1 piston in hole at TDC, file a new TDC Zero groove on your damper

cheeep original-style 383
400 crank has external balance, it won't work like that.
DON'T PANIC
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