Unveiling top secret exhaust...

[travis]

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[lefty o]

them super secret flow vortex's created by the twisted/crushed pipe are the secret.

[GARY C]

Probably designed for twisted wedge heads.

[dannobee]

Remember that engine masters video where they purposely dented some header tubes and actually GAINED horsepower?

[BOOT]

23631957_1597976350285745_7812177073960647745_o.jpg

When I adapted my current y-pipe from longer manifolds to shorter ones I did kinda the same by adding longer tube that slip fit over the old but made sure to grind down and taper the tube lip on the inside. You can see one of the new welded on ends in the pic by the floor. The main gain if any will be where I cut and fixed the Y intersection, I left some outer edge as kinda reversion step and focused mostly on the center wedge.

Most the flow in a circle is in the center on a straight shot but detail work adds up.

I still gotta finish fixing another car where they just inserted the 2.5 into a 3" and then back down to 2.5" and welded it up, the 1st part would of been fine as a reversion step but the exit not so much and it's maybe an inch or more in.

[travis]

Unfortunately, that one pic is looking down the head pipe, not up towards the collector. Probably not a big power killer at this level, but still pretty ugly. I’ll end up fixing this mess if I go any further with this truck. After fighting with the 1 5/8” long tubes on the other truck, I’m really liking the super easy installation of the shorty’s

[hoodeng]

Only thing missing is the MIG wire echidna.

Cheers.

[Bill Chase]

If you look at the cut flash that hooker and others do not remove on their headers they charge almost a grand a set for they aren't much better. I spent 2 hours with a bit extension and carbide just cleaning up the primaries at the merge to the collectors on a set of HKR-2149 super comps that are ceramic coated, the air. Tubes were welded shut, and the egr port on #7 cylinder was not cut open into the primary. Its pretty appalling what so called "American made, quality headers " look like now days.

23631957_1597976350285745_7812177073960647745_o.jpg

When I adapted my current y-pipe from longer manifolds to shorter ones I did kinda the same by adding longer tube that slip fit over the old but made sure to grind down and taper the tube lip on the inside. You can see one of the new welded on ends in the pic by the floor. The main gain if any will be where I cut and fixed the Y intersection, I left some outer edge as kinda reversion step and focused mostly on the center wedge.

Most the flow in a circle is in the center on a straight shot but detail work adds up.

I still gotta finish fixing another car where they just inserted the 2.5 into a 3" and then back down to 2.5" and welded it up, the 1st part would of been fine as a reversion step but the exit not so much and it's maybe an inch or more in.

[travis]

The used stainless shorty’s on my ‘87, and the shiny new stainless long tubes on my ‘83, are JBA headers. The quality appears to be better than any other brand I’ve used before...but then again, I’ve never paid this much for headers before

[PRH]

It would seem that cutting those pieces out and grafting in a couple of mandrel bent pieces shouldn’t be too hard.

[PackardV8]

Silvertone Exhaust Systems up in Canada makes beautiful stainless systems for Studebakers and Packards. On the Packard V8 I built for my '55 Studebaker 3/4-ton, it's much easier to use the single exhaust system down the right side, as the fuel tank is obstructing on the driver's side. I used a core engine for mockup, motor mounts and the exhaust routing. Everything fit perfectly. Then, precision-building my engine, I decked the block, surfaced the heads, including the exhaust flanges, and surfaced the exhaust manifolds. The .010" here and there made the engine smaller and the one-piece Y-pipe no longer was even close to lining up with the exhaust manifold flanges. The stainless tubing is so stiff, there's no way to shop bend it, so I had to cut their perfect pipes to make them fit my engine.

[MadBill]

If you look at the cut flash that hooker and others do not remove on their headers they charge almost a grand a set for they aren't much better. I spent 2 hours with a bit extension and carbide just cleaning up the primaries at the merge to the collectors on a set of HKR-2149 super comps that are ceramic coated, the air. Tubes were welded shut, and the egr port on #7 cylinder was not cut open into the primary. Its pretty appalling what so called "American made, quality headers " look like now days.

Here's a chance to tell my Hooker Horror story!

When I switched from the 350 to a 495" BBC in my 1970 -1/2 Z28 in 1978, I went with a set of 2 -1/8" Hooker Super Comps. They hung a little low on the chassis, not helped by my having cut the motor mounts 3/4" for hood clearance, but the big issue was that the bolt pattern at the head flanges was at least 3/8" offset relative to the port openings. With much slotting of holes I eventually got them lined up pretty well.

Fast forward to 2017. An engine builder friend wanted to dyno a BBC with ZL1 heads as had my engine and happened to pick the exact same p.n. Hooker set that I used almost forty years before. Same alignment problem: THE (BLEEPING) THINGS STILL DIDN'T FIT.