Big Block Chevy Windage control-was this a waste of time?

[Bob Hollinshead]

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I made some lifter valley vents for my Mark IV big block yesterday-good idea or not? Just wondering if I wasted an afternoon LOL. I added a 13/16 hole at the back of the valley for an oil drain and a few more holes at the front of the block... Anybody else do this? good results? A small block is easy to do but I couldn't find anything available for a big block.

[Baprace]

IMG_0499.JPGI made some lifter valley vents for my Mark IV big block yesterday-good idea or not? Just wondering if I wasted an afternoon LOL. I added a 13/16 hole at the back of the valley for an oil drain and a few more holes at the front of the block... Anybody else do this? good results? A small block is easy to do but I couldn't find anything available for a big block.

Nice looking work, here is my opinion ( and with $5.00 cash you can get a cup of coffee ) I use a lifter with a bleed hole to help lubricate solid flat tappet tappet camshafts and with hydrualic cams I like a lifter with a groove on the side. I like a lot of oil on todays aggressive flat tappet camshafts. Roller cams can get by with a lot less oil, something to think about. The return hole in the rear will help the distributor gear a lot, I like that.

[Bob Hollinshead]

I have the lifters with the hole so there should be plenty of oil there I think. I'm hoping the valley vent and a crank scraper might save a few HP that would have been lost to windage. I'll be using this 8 quart pan: https://www.hedman.com/product-detail/1488

[vortecpro]

Bob

It looks good, but you will need to cover the sump on that oil pan its too open.

[Bob Hollinshead]

Bob

It looks good, but you will need to cover the sump on that oil pan its too open.

Thanks for the info Mark! Should I just make a baffle to cover most of it below the crank and leave the edges open some for drainback into the pan? 0r... I've got windage tray studs on the block-would it be a good idea to make a partial windage tray for the rear only-would that work the same as covering the sump?

[vortecpro]

Bob

It looks good, but you will need to cover the sump on that oil pan its too open.

Thanks for the info Mark! Should I just make a baffle to cover most of it below the crank and leave the edges open some for drainback into the pan? 0r... I've got windage tray studs on the block-would it be a good idea to make a partial windage tray for the rear only-would that work the same as covering the sump?

EXACTLY!

[Bob Hollinshead]

Bob

It looks good, but you will need to cover the sump on that oil pan its too open.

Thanks for the info Mark! Should I just make a baffle to cover most of it below the crank and leave the edges open some for drainback into the pan? 0r... I've got windage tray studs on the block-would it be a good idea to make a partial windage tray for the rear only-would that work the same as covering the sump?

EXACTLY!

Cool, I'll see about making a partial windage tray that will work with the pan

[BP758]

Nice work! There is a lot of loss in a stock style pan, anything you can do getting oil back to the sump without hitting the cam/crank is a gain!

[fdicrasto]

That is not a bad looking pan, with the trap doors and a good windage screen design. I did the additional rear drain back also after blocking off the valley drain slots. I did add some shorter breather piping with same idea as your stacks so I could utilize the GM snap in lifter gallery heat shield. Not sure that is still available from GM but it is a nice piece for keeping hot oil off the intake. As noted, directing oil to areas not whacking into the crank is always a plus. Following the rear drain down to the rear main cap area, there is more delicate grinding and shaping that can allow the oil some free flow into the pan without hitting the rear crank counterweight also.

[Bob Hollinshead]

That is not a bad looking pan, with the trap doors and a good windage screen design. I did the additional rear drain back also after blocking off the valley drain slots. I did add some shorter breather piping with same idea as your stacks so I could utilize the GM snap in lifter gallery heat shield. Not sure that is still available from GM but it is a nice piece for keeping hot oil off the intake. As noted, directing oil to areas not whacking into the crank is always a plus. Following the rear drain down to the rear main cap area, there is more delicate grinding and shaping that can allow the oil some free flow into the pan without hitting the rear crank counterweight also.

Thanks for the info, I did do some cleanup work under the rear drain area especially on the filter side of the block. Hopefully there's good enough clearance for good drainback

[ProPower engines]

IMG_0499.JPGI made some lifter valley vents for my Mark IV big block yesterday-good idea or not? Just wondering if I wasted an afternoon LOL. I added a 13/16 hole at the back of the valley for an oil drain and a few more holes at the front of the block... Anybody else do this? good results? A small block is easy to do but I couldn't find anything available for a big block.

Good job
Most guys that run BBC stuff will put a screen over the center holes and call it a day.
I have been working on the complete prevention of draining oil through for many years but the intake can some times be an issue when the heat chamber hangs down farther then you really want.
Screens I have found restrict way too much oil from getting back to the pan quickly and tend to keep oil building up in specific areas.
In the front of the valley area behind the timing system is fine as it will keep small pieces from getting through in the case of a Valve train part failure/breakage but I think most of the oil under acceleration goes to the rear of the block anyway.
Keeping the base of the engine vented during operation has to be better then sealed off just to keep the rings working correctly. When no vac. pump can be used its a good way to keep the oil control in check.

Mopar's are the same way with the large center drain hole areas over the cam/lifters but windage is a HP killer and any way to can eliminate it the engine will like more.
Crank scrappers are another time consuming thing to get right but still worth the time to do it..

[Ron Miller]

Hey Bob,
Have you looked at this package? This is what I like to use with my BB Chevy builds. Go to this link, https://www.competitionproducts.com/Pow ... 21-71488K/

[ProPower engines]

That is a very decent price for what the kit comes with.
Seems like there is several different manufactures/suppliers now that are putting packages like this together as specials as well but nice to see some keep them listed all the time.
And the extra rod clearance is a bonus for stroker builds.

[Bob Hollinshead]

Hey Bob,
Have you looked at this package? This is what I like to use with my BB Chevy builds. Go to this link, https://www.competitionproducts.com/Pow ... 21-71488K/
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Competition products has always been good to me! I always look there before Summit or Jegs.... That is a really good deal!