Rocker arm stud replacement

[engineguyBill]

Bill,
Not trying to create a rift here but not every stud hole needs to be oversized.
IF he is not machining the hole where is the concern that it is going to be off kilter and he needs it done in a shop?
I did far too many of those R&R jobs in the 70s and just don't see why he needs a shop for this one off R&R.
Heck, unless the shop is run by an OG chances are the new kids don't know what to do with it anyway.

Hey Dave,
No problem with the rift. You are correct, the original stud can be replaced with a stud of the original diameter. BUT, once this stud is "pounded" into the head, it should be secured with a roll pin installed. Yes, I too have done this in a pinch. But, without the roll pin the stud will pull out, even in a stock engine. Hooray for us OGs.

[engineguyBill]

Bill,
Not trying to create a rift here but not every stud hole needs to be oversized.
IF he is not machining the hole where is the concern that it is going to be off kilter and he needs it done in a shop?
I did far too many of those R&R jobs in the 70s and just don't see why he needs a shop for this one off R&R.
Heck, unless the shop is run by an OG chances are the new kids don't know what to do with it anyway.

Hey Dave,
No problem with the rift. You are correct, the original stud can be replaced with a stud of the original diameter. BUT, once this stud is "pounded" into the head, it should be secured with a roll pin installed. Yes, I too have done this in a pinch. But, without the roll pin the stud will pull out, even in a stock engine, with stock cam, valve springs, etc., etc. Hooray for us OGs.

[rfoll]

The stud is on an end exhaust. The thread is stripped, so its likely that caused the problem. I have a hydraulic press and a drill press with a compound tilting table, so I can do a good job of it no matter which way I choose.

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The heads are in very good shape and I am going to put them on a short block I am going to sell. I responded to a craigslist ad walking distance from home for an engine and it turned out he had a pile of stuff. For $500, A compete forged 406 rotating assembly,( Scat crank, 6" H beam rods, SRP domed pistons), a set of Crane 1.6 roller rockers, a Comp 296 BR4 solid roller cam, Manley NexTek springs and pushrods, A set of Crower .874 solid roller lifters, 2 circle track Powerglides, (one is a bump start), and 2 350 engines. The engines only need a quick refresh of rings and bearings to be saleable. The Crower Ford diameter lifters have pin oiling and are in very good shape. I have no use for them and If anyone here is interested I will sell the real cheap. Same goes for the Powerglides. Thanks for all of the replies, Rick

[engineguyBill]

Rick, use of your hydraulic press is much preferred over the use of the BFH . . . . . . Put a heat lamp on the stud boss and leave it on overnight, at least twelve hours. Put the replacement stud in the freezer overnight and install everything dry (no lubricant). As mentioned in previous posts, it is highly recommended to install a roll pin in this stud to insure longevity of the repair.

[falcongeorge]

Just add to the mix, the old RM348 Pioneer is 7/16 thread and the head is already close enough to that tap drill size. Surely by hand one can easily tap it straight.

I just used these on a pair of 520's I am doing for a fake 270hp 283 build I am doing for my T-sedan. Easy peasy with the handy-dandy little threaded block tool, and its a simple upgrade. Probably more than you want to do on a 305, but some people have developed some sort of weird attachment to 305's. May be some irony in that, coming from a guy who's building a 283?

[rfoll]

Actually, the 305 heads will go on one of the 350 engines. It gives them a nice compression kick, about a full compression point and an improvement in quench. I did just rebuild the 305 for my El Camino. It was getting mileage in the 19s and had all of the power I needed before the improvements I made.