Anti-seize on spark plugs with aluminum heads?

[travis]

Are we still doing this? I’ve read so much conflicting information lately...

Champion RC12YC plugs (iirc), aftermarket aluminum heads on a sbf.

I’m so damn close to firing this thing up, yet keep getting derailed by little nitpicky things...

[Caprimaniac]

Never used the stuff on plugs.
But then, sll alu heads I have used do have steel inserts, and that might chsnge things.

[gunt]

i have only ever worked on alloy heads , and yes we do even if its just from the purpose of better earthing [ ground ] of the plug

[Walter R. Malik]

I have always used the high heat anti-srize on spark plug threads; though sparingly.

[modok]

They need to be lubricated with SOMETHING.
Gear oil, used engine oil (use the dipstick), or anti-sieze of some kind.

Old guys use anti-sieze.
And that's fine, but I don't like it. It kind of builds up over time and gets real gunky.

[swampbuggy]

I will guarantee you this, if you tighten typical steel spark plugs into an aluminum cylinder head "(without)" helicoils and do not apply something to the threads, you are playing Russian Roulette. Mark H.

[hoodeng]

I have never been a fan of any metallic base lubricant on plugs purely from the tracking perspective. It works for those that know how to make it work.

Over time i have found sometimes telling a person with a seemingly skill set how to do something, and then seen it performed in a manner that begs the old Max Smart question 'what was it after "Now listen carefully"'. I could tell the story of a person i did work for telling me how he hung his motorcycle upside down in a small shed with nothing more than ropes and knots to retrieve lost cam bearing rollers from the bottom end, this was after him being told to use a full contact blind bearing puller, his "mate" told him a cheap two legged puller was exactly the same thing...Apparently i was still somehow responsible as i said the job could be done in situ.

The plating on a new plug is considered the lubricant, although i put one drop of oil on every plug i install at a build.

I have on disassembly of old engines had some plugs that are stupid tight, You would think it was a jesus nut. There is a spec for these things!

Cheers.

[RCJ]

I've read that the coating on the plugs act like anti seize. if you put anti seize on the plugs it inhibits the heat transfer,making the plug act like a higher heat range plug.If I do use some, it is a very small amount.

[donclark]

In 50 years of racing, have never used the stuff on spark plugs, but we do remove and inspect them weekly. Could be different if they will stay in for 20k miles.

[digger]

Wasn't copaslip the stuff that lubricated without affecting the electrical conductivity or thermal head transfer coefficient?

i've never had a problem with a tiny amount of oil

[Kevin Johnson]

We use Coposlip high temp anti-sieze on the threads of all of our spark plugs. We have done extensive testing with Bosch on this, and this is about the only lube that provides the best grounding and temp transfer, while still providing the needed lubrication to get them out without damage. You do need to keep it off of the exposed chamber area as it can cause a misfire/detonation as mentioned by others, but as far as changing the heat range, it has shown VERY little to no effect. The metal particles in the lube help ensure the needed grounding (this is one of the most important grounds in the entire system) just don't get carried away with the amount to avoid chamber contamination!

We used to use EPL, engine oil ect. on the threads, but again, after testing different lubes, found the anti-sieze to be the best.

This testing all came about during the early 2000's. AC Delco was pulling back their motorsport efforts, and due to this, they started having some quality control issue's with their plugs. We started breaking pieces out of the intake valves on high duty cycle tracks (Michigan, Chicago ect), and after chasing just about everything in the book, we found the plug threads to be undersize from the sae spec. This was having a huge impact on heat transfer, and effectivly raising the heat range of the plug into the danger zone for our extended full throttle applications. This is what started all the plug and lube testing, and it is something we continue to monitor constantly.

Proper torque is VERY critical also, as thread engagement (as stated above) has a huge effect on the plugs ability to cool. Most plugs need to be torqued 15-18ft/lb, but can vary slightly with manufacture. Plugs with a compressible sealing washer should be installed, torqued, loosened and re-torqued to pre-compress the washer, thus ensuring the proper thread engagment and heat transfer during operation.

Just my 2 cents!

[modok]

There is actually, by my estimate, a one in 4000 chance that ANY threaded fastener will seize for no particular reason.
Spark plugs included.

odd alloys... Stainless/aluminum/titanium, and finer threads increases the risk,
using an good lubricant reduces the risk severalfold.

The first time it happens you think it's a fluke, it's not

[GARY C]

I have always used the high heat anti-srize on spark plug threads; though sparingly.

Same here to this day.

[lefty o]

a very thin film of anti seize on the threads of the plug, taking care not to get it anywhere else.

[travis]

So it sounds like I just need to keep doing what I’ve always done...light anti-seize and move on.

I read something a while back on, iirc, Champions website about NOT using the anti-seize (or anything else) on the silver colored plated plugs, and I guess some people took that very literally.

Thanks!