Lowbuck Shop/Race Truck Build

[vortecpro]

"so how would you build the 355?" Turn it into a 406. The first time a made the swap I found a full second and the mph to go with it. Of course, every time I build an engine I start thinking about the next one.

I could have built a 406 but I wanted to use a fuelie/double hump head, that probably wouldn't work to good with my 5.13 gear, the 350 can go through over 7000 RPM no problem.

[prairiehotrodder]

cool project vortecpro !

i used to race a 65 chevy pickup and i could pass on a few things that might interest you.

65 chevy longbox
3600 with me in it
turbo 350 / 4000 stall
4.88 gears in the 12 bolt with 31 x 16.5 ET streets
377 sbc
ran a best of 11.95 at around 110 if i remember correctly.
I was a kid and built everything myself so i know it doesn't measure up to what the stockers do.

I will say that the factory truck-arm / coil spring setup on those old trucks was actually pretty good for drag racing. Also the wooden box floor made it very easy to widen the factory wheel tubs 4 inches then i bought 15 x 12 wheels with 7.5" backspace so that i didn't have to narrow the diff. But i did use weld-on housing ends and new bolt-in axles.

The engine was pretty special for what a 19 year old could scrape together :
377 with 11.5 CR
AFR 210 heads
850 demon on a vic jr.
custom sold roller 255 @ .050 .575 / .575 lift 106 LSA had a very narrow window of power

[vortecpro]

Very nice! Strong runner, so it looks like I might need to go 110 to get into the 11s, thanks for the information.

[prairiehotrodder]

Another thing that i did that might be helpful for your project, I used one of the really long turbo 350's with i think a 12" tailshaft. Then i eliminated the 2 piece driveshaft and got a custom 1 piece built. A mid length turbo 400 also works well.

[vortecpro]

The Shop/Race truck went to the track today. As usual I missed the great conditions and had to settle for:

1325 DA
29.52 Barometer
70 GOW

I did not get my 1.49 60 foot, on the third run I hurt the leaf springs, which ended my testing for the day.

I made 3 passes in full street trim, as I drive the truck on the street with power steering

Run 1.
60. 1.59
660. 7.28
660 MPH 92.7

Run 2.
60. 1.42. Rolled the light
660. 7.33
660 MPH 93.1

Run 3.
60 1.56
660 7.22
660 MPH 93.15
Tail gate down

If I get the right conditions, I will run the truck to its full potential which I believe will bring 7.ohs. I think it will 60 1.51 or 1.52, but it will take a different drive shaft to get into the 1.4s. I will post video and pictures from the test.

[vortecpro]

Leaf spring damage

IMG_0939.jpg

[1980RS]

Leaf spring damageIMG_0939.jpg

Didn't the Mopar guys used to clamp the rear part of the spring together in the old days, not sure if that would help. Nice times though, that's getting after it with that parts hauler truck for sure.

[vortecpro]

They were clamped, the rear spring separated so much it went above the spring eye mount.

[nxtruck]

Great numbers for a full-weight longbed truck with only 360 c.i.s! And even better in street-trim!

[vortecpro]

Thanks

Some pictures

[nxtruck]

Such a cool truck! The faded paint and the over-achieving engine and drivetrain sure would make that a fun truck to hit the cruise-ins in! Not to mention the unsuspecting late-model muscle owners.

[vortecpro]

https://youtube.com/shorts/aS_Mx_tTz1c?feature=share

[bpenrod]

[quote=vortecpro post_id=936329 time=1675198590 user_id=899

My truck weighs 3970 race ready,
[/quote]

I thought it would be heavier than that. Have you lightened it any?

[prairiehotrodder]

Am i right that those 1/8 mile times calculate to about 11.35 ? Quarter mile ? Impressive ! Good work !
Brian

[BOOT]

Leaf spring damageIMG_0939.jpg

Cut that end bit off. I'm not a leafspring expert but when I looked into them, pretty sure for drag-race you clamp the front and leave/remove the rear for it to expand to help with traction.

edit: For the street then clamp the rear, easy enough to remove at/before the track.