Mark what rear suspension? Make memories with father/son, Friends dad remembers nothing before his illnessvortecpro wrote: ↑Wed Jul 29, 2020 7:14 pm Back in the late 90s I had a square body I built for a shop truck, long bed. I had a one piece steel shaft built for it locally, It did have a vibration at hi way speeds. I had another shop build me the same shaft, no vibration at hi way speeds, I feel I owe it to my self to try with the 5 inch OEM aluminum shaft. I do appreciate the advice though.
Lowbuck Shop/Race Truck Build
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Re: Lowbuck Shop/Race Truck Build
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Re: Lowbuck Shop/Race Truck Build
I put 4 degrees negative pinion angle in it, took out 2 leafs, clamped the front leafs, now I got something here, hauls ass! Probably would run high 11s down low. Now I'am working on getting lightweight front rims and tires on there, then the drive shaft.
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Re: Lowbuck Shop/Race Truck Build
Cool! Sounds like you’ve got a handle on the pinion angle now. Keep us updated with your progress!
Re: Lowbuck Shop/Race Truck Build
Update: Went to the track last night, 8000 DA 24.90 baro, cross wind, went 13.49 with a 1.91 60 foot, I suspect not enough converter (no tach) the 60 should be high 1.70s. But considering I went 14.40 3 weeks ago before the modifications it looks like I'am going in the right direction, I still have the aluminum drive shaft and light weight tires and rims to go. I think when the weather changes with these other modifications I might get that 12 sec pass here in Colorado. The truck as it sits now.
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Re: Lowbuck Shop/Race Truck Build
Mid 13's in Denver air! that's pretty good. What is that time at sea level corrected Mark?vortecpro wrote: ↑Sat Aug 15, 2020 11:12 am Update: Went to the track last night, 8000 DA 24.90 baro, cross wind, went 13.49 with a 1.91 60 foot, I suspect not enough converter (no tach) the 60 should be high 1.70s. But considering I went 14.40 3 weeks ago before the modifications it looks like I'am going in the right direction, I still have the aluminum drive shaft and light weight tires and rims to go. I think when the weather changes with these other modifications I might get that 12 sec pass here in Colorado. The truck as it sits now.
Re: Lowbuck Shop/Race Truck Build
Yeah, that sounds good, especially in that air. Good times for the weight and cubic inches involved. I'm assuming it was dead-hooking on those slicks. Yeah, I'm thinking a converter change would definitely help it, too. Might need to loosen the front end up some, also, after a converter swap. I guess it depends on how street-friendly you want to keep it. Thanks for the update!vortecpro wrote: ↑Sat Aug 15, 2020 11:12 am Update: Went to the track last night, 8000 DA 24.90 baro, cross wind, went 13.49 with a 1.91 60 foot, I suspect not enough converter (no tach) the 60 should be high 1.70s. But considering I went 14.40 3 weeks ago before the modifications it looks like I'am going in the right direction, I still have the aluminum drive shaft and light weight tires and rims to go. I think when the weather changes with these other modifications I might get that 12 sec pass here in Colorado. The truck as it sits now.
Re: Lowbuck Shop/Race Truck Build
Yes it dead hooks, there is no hit at the tires, just mush. I need to make a TQ strap but can't figure out a way yet, I'am open to suggestions, pictures below. It definitely needs more converter, it flashes then locks and bogs the engine, you have to remember I'am working with under 300 TQ at this altitude. I'am pretty sure when I get the front tires and aluminum drive shaft on there I will see some 12 sec times in Sept. But a 1.91 60 isn't going to cut it with me. P/SA 1986 C-10 stockers run 13.80s @ Denver with a 1.79 60, I'am very deficient at the launch.
1. Front tires and rims change
2. Aluminum shaft
3. Ignition change
4. Fuel system upgrade
5. Real SBC engine build
In that order.
1. Front tires and rims change
2. Aluminum shaft
3. Ignition change
4. Fuel system upgrade
5. Real SBC engine build
In that order.
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Re: Lowbuck Shop/Race Truck Build
Looks like a real fun build with you son. As far as the torque strap I see you have double hump heads with no access.holes . Is there away with space and headers that you could make a bracket to use 1 or both head bolts between cylinder 1and 3 spark plugs . Or if you have the drilled and tapped pipe plug in that area to drill and tap and back weld a stud into the pipe plug . Just a couple thoughts Dan
Re: Lowbuck Shop/Race Truck Build
12.801980RS wrote: ↑Sat Aug 15, 2020 11:46 amMid 13's in Denver air! that's pretty good. What is that time at sea level corrected Mark?vortecpro wrote: ↑Sat Aug 15, 2020 11:12 am Update: Went to the track last night, 8000 DA 24.90 baro, cross wind, went 13.49 with a 1.91 60 foot, I suspect not enough converter (no tach) the 60 should be high 1.70s. But considering I went 14.40 3 weeks ago before the modifications it looks like I'am going in the right direction, I still have the aluminum drive shaft and light weight tires and rims to go. I think when the weather changes with these other modifications I might get that 12 sec pass here in Colorado. The truck as it sits now.
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Re: Lowbuck Shop/Race Truck Build
Well, for a torque strap, could you make a bracket that uses the front header tube bolt holes and goes up over that tube and then makes a 90* bend toward the frame rail? That would give you an attachment point for some sort of strap, even one of those turnbuckles that the hardware stores sell. I had an alternator bracket at one time that bolted to those two bolt holes and was notched to clear the header tube.vortecpro wrote: ↑Mon Aug 17, 2020 7:38 pm Yes it dead hooks, there is no hit at the tires, just mush. I need to make a TQ strap but can't figure out a way yet, I'am open to suggestions, pictures below. It definitely needs more converter, it flashes then locks and bogs the engine, you have to remember I'am working with under 300 TQ at this altitude. I'am pretty sure when I get the front tires and aluminum drive shaft on there I will see some 12 sec times in Sept. But a 1.91 60 isn't going to cut it with me. P/SA 1986 C-10 stockers run 13.80s @ Denver with a 1.79 60, I'am very deficient at the launch.
1. Front tires and rims change
2. Aluminum shaft
3. Ignition change
4. Fuel system upgrade
5. Real SBC engine build
In that order.
I'll be interested in seeing the changes on your timeslip once you get the tires and driveshaft changed. Definitely some et hiding there. How high does the current converter flash? My apologies if you've already mentioned that.
Re: Lowbuck Shop/Race Truck Build
I was going to add about the rust if we found one that rusty here in MN we'd call it cherry.
Jim
Re: Lowbuck Shop/Race Truck Build
Looks like were going to find out if we got a high altitude 12 sec shop truck tomorrow......
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Re: Lowbuck Shop/Race Truck Build
Thanks, I look forward to your results!
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