Its 8 inch. I have run 13.90 @ 100 MPH in Colorados 8000 plus DA air so far, but thats with the 3.07 gear, 2.17 60 foot . I think with tire rim change along the rear end change, we should have a different animal on our hands........I hope. One other thing I should mention is we have 17,000 miles on this truck since we built it.
Lowbuck Shop/Race Truck Build
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Re: Lowbuck Shop/Race Truck Build
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Re: Lowbuck Shop/Race Truck Build
I had a spool like that 45 yrs. ago wasn't that purdy with the tig welds & all, just stuck some 7018 in there.
Jim
Re: Lowbuck Shop/Race Truck Build
That is impressive for that low compression combo and at that weight. Your project sure sounds like a fun one. Have fun with it!
Re: Lowbuck Shop/Race Truck Build
Thanks
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Re: Lowbuck Shop/Race Truck Build
Thanks, it is fun........nxtruck wrote: ↑Mon Jul 27, 2020 5:25 pmThat is impressive for that low compression combo and at that weight. Your project sure sounds like a fun one. Have fun with it!
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Re: Lowbuck Shop/Race Truck Build
How old is your son? I love seeing father/son projects. Cant wait on my grandsons to get a little older.
Great job.
Tom
Great job.
Tom
Re: Lowbuck Shop/Race Truck Build
He's 15 and he's an engine kid!FuelieNova wrote: ↑Mon Jul 27, 2020 8:11 pm How old is your son? I love seeing father/son projects. Cant wait on my grandsons to get a little older.
Great job.
Tom
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Re: Lowbuck Shop/Race Truck Build
Question: Did you run a OEM 5 inch drive shaft? My wifes truck has the same shaft and works fine, although its not turning 7000 RPM. Your thoughts.nxtruck wrote: ↑Mon Jul 27, 2020 5:25 pmThat is impressive for that low compression combo and at that weight. Your project sure sounds like a fun one. Have fun with it!
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Re: Lowbuck Shop/Race Truck Build
No sir. The 1-piece that I ran was only 4”. It was a steel shaft, too. I don’t remember the length of it, but could find that out for you, as I still have it in the shop. I would have no problem running that shaft in a short wheelbase truck, but my experience with a 1-piece in my long wheelbase truck was less than stellar. Lol.vortecpro wrote: ↑Wed Jul 29, 2020 8:03 amQuestion: Did you run a OEM 5 inch drive shaft? My wifes truck has the same shaft and works fine, although its not turning 7000 RPM. Your thoughts.
Re: Lowbuck Shop/Race Truck Build
Back in the late 90s I had a square body I built for a shop truck, long bed. I had a one piece steel shaft built for it locally, It did have a vibration at hi way speeds. I had another shop build me the same shaft, no vibration at hi way speeds, I feel I owe it to my self to try with the 5 inch OEM aluminum shaft. I do appreciate the advice though.
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Re: Lowbuck Shop/Race Truck Build
An aluminum shaft will probably not shake. It has less weight than a steel shaft, the weight is what contributes to it wanting to whip some. Identical shaft diameters and lengths the aluminum will spin more rpm till it starts shaking than steel.
Re: Lowbuck Shop/Race Truck Build
2driveshafts are each shorter and stronger and each has a higher natural resonance frequency. And the engine and rear axle relative mounting angles can be bigger U joint running angle is more stable . unequal length supresses natural vibration transfer between the 2driveshafts.. You go farther for longer in a big truck.
Re: Lowbuck Shop/Race Truck Build
My rear end build came to a end today, unfortunately I will have to science out the rear suspension too use the new rear end, feels like its trying to pitch the drive shaft, pinion angle is wrong. If anyone has any ideas on how to make it work I'am open to suggestions.
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Re: Lowbuck Shop/Race Truck Build
I assume there is too much pinion angle? Can you use the wedge type pinion angle spacers to work it out?
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Re: Lowbuck Shop/Race Truck Build
X2. I, too, would be looking at those wedge shims. Were the spring perches in the factory location? Is this the factory rearend housing? If so, I would think things would be fairly close, unless the truck has been lowered several inches.