Remote filter/cooler help needed

[cv67]

67 A body, warmed over 383
Want to do a remote filter as I have to drop the DS header to remove, no room.

A cooler would help me, this builds heat quick. Figure this will have my fan running less often

Favored brand of adapter? What size lines are ideal? Ideally Id like to run hard line, most of it.
What dia should I do? Ifnot hard line what size?

Should the filter be first then the cooler or does it matter
Should I be concerned with any pressure drop?

I have the bypass blocked for now planned on leaving it as such.

[Krooser]

I'd use a sandwich adaptor and -12 lines.

I have a Derale adaptor for my Accusump... seems to be a good quality and less expensive than some others.

I wouldn't use hard line... too many chances for flex and vibration to wear it out. I'm using -12 with simple Push-Loc hose and fittings. EZ on the budget and it works.

[prairiehotrodder]

i'd find a used oil filter adapter from a 90's chevy 4x4 truck. They are about as cheap and plentiful as you can get. I've probably thrown 50 of them away. That would likely position your oil filter in a better way. Then make up your own lines.

[Krooser]

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-15720

[Caprimaniac]

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-15720

What I was about to say. Good temperature control.
And put the adapter on the outside of it. Filter on inner fender. Not much pressure loss there.

I was under impression an10 was appropriate size, but 12 might work. Never use 8 or smaller...

[PackardV8]

A cooler would help me, this builds heat quick. Figure this will have my fan running less often

FWIW, getting the coolant quickly up to running temperature is a good thing, as long as it can be held within the desired range in normal driving. What is your temp range?

As a generality, oil temperature is more load-dependent than coolant temperature. For street-driven vehicles, once warmed up, I've found oil coolers don't lower coolant temperature much in normal driving, because there's seldom enough extended load to put much heat into the oil.

Of course, filled blocks are their own set of coolant and oil temperature control problems.

Without a thermostat, they would take too long for the oil to warm up. That's why a thermostat in the adapter is a necessity. The cooler will help keep oil temp from going too high in extended full load situations, such as towing. How often does this engine experience extended full load? How large a cooler do you plan to use and where will it be located? Putting the oil cooler in front of the radiator just puts any heat it removes back into the coolant.

Your experiences and advice may vary.

[dannobee]

When the aforementioned Chevy truck adapter and lines are used, along with the cooler in the radiator tank, the need for an oil thermostat is obviated. The coolant thermostat dictates the cooling medium for the oil, and also helps warm the oil on cold startup.

The factory oil coolers years ago moved away from separate radiators to oil coolers using engine coolant. There's a reason for that.

[PackardV8]

When the aforementioned Chevy truck adapter and lines are used, along with the cooler in the radiator tank, the need for an oil thermostat is obviated. The coolant thermostat dictates the cooling medium for the oil, and also helps warm the oil on cold startup.

The factory oil coolers years ago moved away from separate radiators to oil coolers using engine coolant. There's a reason for that.

Agree completely. Maybe the OP will opt for a custom in-radiator oil cooler.

Just thinking out loud, if one is running a standard transmission, would a early Mopar factory transmission cooler radiator have sufficient flow to be of benefit as an oil cooler?

[dannobee]

Trans coolers generally won't flow enough. But circle track radiators are dirt cheap. Lord knows that we bought enough of them over the years to bump up the demand.

https://www.ebay.com/i/373055193304?chn ... lwQAvD_BwE

[hoodeng]

As pointed out, a thermostat bypass on or integral to the cooler is good practice [on a XR1000 i had i installed a Hayden thermostat controlled cooler, it rarely opened].
Routing is pump to filter then to cooler and return to tank, routing of the filter head is, fluid in through the outside and out through the inside of the media.

Cheers.

[ptuomov]

I’ve thought about this a bit but I don’t know if our solution is ideal. It seems to work ok, despite the 100x dynamic range of air and fuel line between idle and peak power. We have a coolant thermostat, temperature controlled electric fans, oil thermostat, coolant radiator with an end tank oil cooler, and separate oil cooler radiators. We plumbed the oil cooling circuit to run thru both the external oil radiators and the engine coolant radiator end tank in series. We feel that this setup gets the engine oil and engine coolant both to operating temperature very quickly, can use a lot of air flow to cool everything at peak power, and have enough “inertia” to prevent hot spikes in either oil or engine coolant. Sorry if this is too far off topic.