C.A.T. 6.0 I beam rods

[67 Nova]

Anyone know anything about these rods? Customer has a set of 6.0" long for a 406/600hp street build. I have never heard of them and he says he's had them about 5 yrs?? They have 350A 0501 on the beams and what looks like a GREYHOUND bus lines logo of a "CAT??" running/jumping.

This is all I can find:

http://www.southeastrt.net/index.php?ma ... ts_id=9601

Thanks, John

[1972ho]

There no different than scat,eagle are any of the others.

[mag2555]

For that motors stroke and intended 600 hp power level they will work fine, I would however keep the motors rev’s under 7800 to have a good margin of safety.

I am also assuming that they are new, as if the bolts have been torqued up 5 times then it’s time to replace them!

[67 Nova]

I recommended Scat Pro Stock I beams, but up here there $500.00. I'm going to call Ohio Crankshaft on Monday about there forged 4340 6.0" I beam street/strip rod and see what they say. I might be able to bump him to them.

[rustbucket79]

California Auto Transpeed IIRC. I own one of their “fluid dampeners”, it worked as advertised.

Will the rods work, probably. Is it worth gambling your name for a set of rods? Probably not.

[ProPower engines]

I recommended Scat Pro Stock I beams, but up here there $500.00. I'm going to call Ohio Crankshaft on Monday about there forged 4340 6.0" I beam street/strip rod and see what they say. I might be able to bump him to them.

That CAT stuff has been around for over 15 years now.
Counterfeit bolts were an issue at one time but they were a heavy rod like an eagle 3D rod in physical size just heavier.

[Mark O'Neal]

Just watch the bolta.

[67 Nova]

How would you guys think they stack up to the Ohio Street/Strip rods?

From Ohio site:

"4340 I-Beam Street and Strip Rods
One of our newest rods, the 4340 street/strip rod is a tremendous seller.
* All rods use ARP 2000 bolts and nuts *
This I-beam construction rod is forged from 4340 (not 5140 as is used in most rods in this price range). The appearance is somewhat similar to OEM rods."

Going to call Ohio and talk to them. Also looking into the bolts today in these as well, but believe the bolts are just stock-ish and nothing special. So if we need to replace bolts, might just be better to order the Ohio's.

[SupStk]

I've run into CAT stuff before. It's all been more trouble than they are worth, unless quality has improved in the last 15 years.

Start by torquing and checking the big end. After resizing, retorque and see if they are still round. Don't be surprised if the bolt fit is like hardware store fasteners. Do check the bushing for fit in the rod eye. Most are too loose and move. Check for straightness before attempting to balance.

Everything that's has CAT on it has been bad news. Have stories to tell about their I-Beam rods, dampers, flexplates, main caps and rockers. In my opinion it's all junk and I don't even let it in the shop anymore.

[1972ho]

Supstk do you have any pictures to post of any of the failed CAT stuff you say has given you problems are maybe a customers stuff.

[smallblockcamaro]

I've used their rods and crank about 15-20 years ago and didn't have any problems. I remember their stuff being similar to Eagle. For this type of hp build I would use them as long as they're sized properly and the rpms are kept around 7000 or less.

[BirdMan]

I bought a set of CAT 6.2 windsor/cleveland .912 / stock big end with A.R.P. rod bolts, real ARP rod bolts don't have the periods in them. Son had a 351C stock crank, these rods, special pistons I already had to fit 9.2 deck C block.
Built son's engine with same parts everything else. Normally he would rev to 7,000/7,200 shift points but with this newly redone engine he only took it to 6,000 for 2 or 3 passes, then 6,500 for 1 or 2 passes all was okay at this point and the car picked up several tenths et in qtr mile from long rods. SO told him to try 7,000 and when he shifted to 3rd C-4 trans at least 1 rod bolt broke and rod came out of block at pan juncture, It is Still on engine stand with the rod still in place. It pissed me off so much and we had a lot of broken cylinder walls over the years I bought a Dart Sportsman 9.5 block using Eagle 6.300 H beam rods having ARP 2000 rod bolts, Eagle 4340 crank, 0 / neutral balanced. Tore down after 3 years as #3 cylinder was out of round. Had all bores rehoned and now no oil in cylinders. Assembly has 7/8 years on it shifting at 7,000 reusing original coated bearings having 50#'s oil pressure when warm.

I think the only problem was the fake rod bolts.

[mt-engines]

I have used probably a dozen or so sets. Since 2005, but haven't in the last few years.

For a machine shop that can save a buck and refit the big and small end. Upgrade the bolts it's not a big issue.. For the average builder I'd skip them and use some scats or eagles.

Same goes with RPM rods. The finish isn't the greatest. But they will do well if the bolts are upgraded to real ARP hardware and refit. Strong heavy rods.