Tunnel rammed 23* 421sbc

[54chevkiwi]

So i was double checking my mock up as i was putting things together.. turns out i had set the stands up .050 low.. i personally blame TDs shitty tool, its a stamping with bevelled edges.. so i threw that away and matched the dimemsions with joe blocks and used them. Ended up with .110 of shims i think it was. Thats nice.

[54chevkiwi]

Once id done that i had a pair of thick wall manton 3/8” pushrods i cut and made into pushrod length checkers.
I then ordered a pair of 1/2” x .188 wall manton pushrods.. they arrived, i think ill need 3.5” of taper diwn to 7/16 on one dnd though, i could rat tail file the heads a little as theres a step from when eric machined the pushrod pinches.. id rather use the tapered pushrods though because he broke through and welded a couple ports up, i dont wanna mess that up with a file...
Im hoping a 3.5” taper on 1/2” x .188 wall 7.9 pushhrods will be a negligable strength difference over straight 1/2” ones..

[54chevkiwi]

I re checked my cam degreeing..

I mocked it up the first time with some manton 3/8 by .145 wall pushrods... Its interesting how much more p/v i had with them and the running springs compared to the 1/2 x .188 wall ones! Really noticeable on the dial gauge even rolling it over by hand.. it was like .020 difference..

This brings me to my next post..

[54chevkiwi]

Heres the cam card

AC0FA364-7193-4692-BBE4-6D6562A81A51.png

Rockers are TD 1.7/1.6 shafts.
I degreed it at the lobe focusing on the intake valve open point and got..
ICL 109.75
IVO 20 @.050
IVC 57 @.050

With the running pushrods, running springs, .012 lash (hot lash minus .004 less cold) at the retainer this gave me:
ICL 109.75
IVO 24 @ .050
IVC 61 @ .050
Lift was .724 (out of theoretical .749)
Exhaust p/v .075

Advancing it one tick on the cam sprocket (rollmaster vernier set) got me at the lobe

ICL 107.5
IVO 22 @.050
IVC 55 @.050

At the retainer:

ICL 107.5
IVO 26 @.050
IVC 58 @.050

Same lift, .090 Exhaust p/v

Next i tried retarding it till the intake close was 20 at the valve, i ended up with this at the lobe...

ICL 115
IVO 15.5 @.050
IVC 51 @.050

At the retainer this gave me:

IVO 20 @.050
IVC 56 @.050
And .035 exhaust p/v

This is my rocker sweep...

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I didnt check the exhaust number yet but i still can..

I done a valve drop and i forgot to check my notes but i THINK it was .330 at 10 degrees btdc/atdc and i THINK .280 at tdc

[54chevkiwi]

If anyone wants to share their opinion on where i should leave it itd be nice..

I feel like scenario one and two might be splitting hairs with how itll run, almost like in each scenario its within a degree of where the cam card wants the ICL so i should just put it where theres the most p/v clearance...

Option one more closely matches what the cam wants done overall, option two matches the intake valve closing point exactly but puts the intake valve open more advanced than where the cam says...
I could maybe split the difference and put it at 21 degrees intake open...
Though this is probably all not even worth deliberating on..? Just pick a spot and go with it?
Big joes opinion was thd engine retards when started anyway, so i COULD go with option 2 for a little more advance on that note...
Isnt overthinking a bitch..

Im also wondering if i should cut a little bit out of the pistons for extra exhaust valve relief, id really rather not but if i haveto or should really do it you know i wil..

Id also like to point out i only have two running pushrods to check them for head clearance in each spot at this stage, im not sure how having the whole cam loaded with all the valve springs will affect these number differently, if at all..

[54chevkiwi]

I was just thinking... i suppose it makes no difference where i put it if itll be played with on the dyno anyways, only mattees that i have enough p/v to shift it around.. on that note i guess i will be cutting .030-.050 out of the pistons..

[Elroy]

This thing ever hit the dyno?

[54chevkiwi]

Naah.
I had to cut the exhaust reliefs .030 deeper, I got Jones htd stuff and a gz vacuum pump,
I made a crank mandrel like the Jones ones because theirs weren't long enough. I don't remember if I updated all that..
Have a Daytona sensors ignition box, got the summers brothers thing figured out...
It just needs the intake sealed up, oil pan on and sealed up, plumbing and ignition wires. Just nickel and dime shit.

Long story short, I've lost interest. There are more important things in life to me now than simply having an engine. With the current inflation I don't have the disposable income anymore to finish it to the caliber it needs. I certainly don't have the money to drag race it. With the cost and rareness of racing tyres for example. Nevermind something breaking, trying to get replacement parts, I just don't have the money or interest in going racing, I'd have to save 3 months to buy a pair of tyres if I could find any. So it just sits in my kitchen.

A mate is finishing the car itself for me, I've retired from cars now, I'm jaded. Just too much work and money for very very very little return. I tried selling it all 3 times and trading it for something like a 30s chev pickup driver, or 64 galaxie driver and had no bites so I guess Ill just let it sit. I think I'd get more for it parting it all out. Once Dan finishes the car I might get interested again and drive it before selling it running. I dunno. So much regret.

[54chevkiwi]

This is it as it sits right now

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