Don Terrill’s Speed-Talk

Not sure how else I could of really inspected these lifters out but I know they weren't short travel or .750 wheel as claimed

https://youtu.be/3sp3RzqBtJo

Should have measured the leakdown rate or at least rough compared to a stock gm lifter..
All full skirt style oem type hyd roller liftrrs have a .700" wheel.
.750" with full skirt do not exist..
Does this lifter allow swapping the wire clip for a C clip?

F-BIRD'88 wrote: ↑Mon Apr 19, 2021 6:03 pm Should have measured the leakdown rate or at least rough compared to a stock gm lifter..
All full skirt style oem type hyd roller liftrrs have a .700" wheel.
.750" with full skirt do not exist..
Does this lifter allow swapping the wire clip for a C clip?

What does measuring the leakdown rate of a lifter look like? Special testing equipment?


Adam

For this purpose a simple a-b leak time test VS a known good oem lifter would tell the tale. Its either a good functional hyd roller lifter or its not.

F-BIRD'88 wrote: ↑Mon Apr 19, 2021 6:47 pm For this purpose a simple a-b leak time test VS a known good oem lifter would tell the tale. Its either a good functional hyd roller lifter or its not.

My question is even dumber: How do you actually do a leak time test?
Just let the engine run, then shut it off and time how long it takes for a nearly open-all-the-way valve to bleed down whatever distance the lifter's internal travel has given total travel minus preload or something like that?

Assumption: They leak down faster with more spring pressure, hence a-b test required with constant spring pressure. (?)

Adam

WOW look at this other ad, check out the rollers https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fits-For-Brian ... %3A2334524

Is this really a place you want to try to save 150 bucks? For the price of the originals from a verified source why waste time even considering these things? I'm sure you already know this but here goes.

12499225 gm Delphi standard replacement.$312.27

88958689 Cadillac racing lifter $383.86

For anything more than a low rpm stock type rebuild either buy the real McCoy, or a superior aftermarket piece from morel, Johnson, etc.

Bill Chase wrote: ↑Wed Apr 21, 2021 2:52 am Is this really a place you want to try to save 150 bucks? For the price of the originals from a verified source why waste time even considering these things?

Good question, lets say you have a claimer engine or a demo derby car and in my case these were gonna be used on a beat up high mileage spray n pray. For that type deal a cheap larger wheel and short travel lifter would be good but they didn't have the two main features I wanted. I know the larger wheel is not ideal(I wondered why some switched back from .750, thx F-BIRD) and the right cam would better with a smaller wheel but mine was $30.

Also know plenty of peeps with mild combos that would or have bought these import lifters cause they are cheap. And now I'd advise them to just get stock replacements knowing these aren't what they claim.

Plus it would save me time and $$$ over modding some LS7 lifters

I'd think used junkyard pieces would be a better option than a substandard piece made with questionable quality steel, and machining practices that are consistently producing inconsistently sized parts. And if it was a budget claimer type engine the emphasis should be on reliability, low cost, and performance. Cleaned up junkyard parts would fit that niche better than a questionable import that has no all that going against it. Not trying to be combative, rather trying to point out the general puts pieces in an engine designed to survive warranty, and do so with an idiot owner that will neglect or abuse the vehicle in just about every conceivable way. They are just a more robust part. Especially if you can pull a couple sets from oh let's say a 4.3 v6 circa 2002 out of a van or full size truck it probably has had a gentle life with good maintenance, it started to rust, was sold, and the moron that bought it ran it until the transmission died then junked it. There is a bit of an art to junkyard crawling, but can often be a great source of quality parts for things like this, a few hours of your time vs the alternative. Just offering a different perspective

Should have said, here in Michigan, lots of low mileage rusted late model cars in junkyard to pull good parts from, you can get a good feel for how the thing was maintained by knowing what to look for. Have a cousin that owns a small salvage yard and have access to it for well below scrap price on most stuff, so naturally it makes sense to me. In your neck of the woods that may not be the case.

It's just a difference of preference, time available, travel and money. Some would rather go out to a u-pull yard, take home clean up used parts and then modify. Some would rather have it shipped to their door. For me it can be either, not long ago I bought some used parts off ebay because I didn't want to go to the yards in winter to save a few bucks. Also sometimes in summer I don't wanna fight off the mosquitoes either LOL