Dave Koehler wrote: ↑Wed May 12, 2021 8:47 am
Sadly, I have been pondering this thin wall bushing deal off and on and came to this conclusion.
To pull this off a lot more press fit is required than seems logical.
Procedure goes like this.
1: Hone rod ends a couple of thou over and to the same size.
Chamfer the hole if needed.
2: To avoid the problem of installing the bushing to the proper depth the first time a special bushing is to be made.
This bushing will be T shaped with just enough thickness to act as a stop. .060?
Bushing ID should be .002 under size
Bushing OD should be .005 -.006 larger than the rod hole
Bushing should be slightly chamfered on the OD.
3: Induction heat the rod and drop the bushing in.
Machine off the excess T portion
Chamfer the bushing ID.
4: Finish hone or bore for .001-.0012 pin press fit
Make sure there are no nicks or burrs however small, on the pins.
My thinking is that is will take less heat than the bush to install the piston pin and this can be pulled off.
Optional procedure (and probably a good idea.)
.080 wall isn't all that much and would be no problem if it was a free float bronze setup.
A bit more thickness for press fit with steel could prove to be a good thing.
Honing is no fun so I would bore the rod .040 - .060 oversize and make the bushing to match.
This is probably overthinking it but my minds eye says the dodge rods are pretty thick on the top.
This much has to be bored out anyway if you were to bush the rod for a bronze bush at the oem pin diameter.
Boring also gives you the option to blueprint the C to C length.
IF the hole is a bit offset (happens a lot) in the forging you can also move it sideways a bit to center the hole better.
Closing thoughts:
Consider dry ice to freeze the steel bushing for installation. Need all the help you can get.
Resize the Big ends before doing any boring of the small end.
Rods should be spiffy clean and dry before induction heating.
Bronze bushed free float is a lot less work.