Porting With an Electric Die Grinder

[EDC]

I don't play with YouTube so doing a video is not my deal *but* I have been using the stacked speed controllers for years.... never a problem. Might be those Chicom "devices" are the reason you are having problems? No idea... I'm a mechanical engineer, not electrical.

Sorry for suggesting something that works great for me.

[BradH]

I'm still not clear on where the improvement is by running dual controllers in sequence... a more precise ability to set grinder speed by being able to tweak the first controller to set a max baseline speed and use the second one to dial it in?

The only thing that I can compare this to is that I'm redoing my lil' SF-110 w/ higher capacity intake motors. In order to have more flexibility on vacuum motor speed -- and also not have to run them at 100% at lower lifts --, I'll be running the power through a Variac to let me dial down the motor speed, in addition to having the vacuum depression control on the bench.

[SpeierRacingHeads]

I've had on Harbor Freight controller plugged into a power strip and 4 grinders plugged in. Never had a problem in 10 years. Breaking a shaft, or killing the actual grinder is another story.

[GARY C]

Has anyone tried to adapt a Foredom foot controller to a conventional grinder?

[maxracesoftware]

i forgot about 3 more "Tricks" Porting With an Electric Die Grinder
i'll take a few Pics and Post much later tonite or tomorrow .

[maxracesoftware]

i forgot about 3 more "Tricks" Porting With an Electric Die Grinder
i'll take a few Pics and Post much later tonite or tomorrow .

2 of the Tricks are actually related + combined into 1
in this Pic , only 2 or 3 Shanks have the proper cone or taper shape i'm posting about !

20211005_220848_2016x1512.jpg

.... that is : i buy all long or extra long Sanding Roll Shanks and Burrs , then i grind them to lengths i want .
i use corner edge of 8" dia Stone Grinding wheel to V or 45deg the shank cutoff
then grind tip end to about a 45deg angle ,
the reason is : the V or 45deg end helps center the shank inside my old Black & Decker Air Grinders ,
and i've carried this over thru the years on all my Electric + Air Grinders,
the shanks ran smoother with less runout with the end tapers in most of my Grinders .

the other trick : i'd put the Burr or Roll Mandrel in the Grinders Collet and then spin it looking for runout ,
and if you loosen the Collect and turn the Shank a 1/4 of a turn then lock it back down and spin it again
to see the runout .... after doing this a few times ... you can find a spot where the Shank's runout is the very least ,
this helps out grinding Ports,etc.

the 3rd Trick :
i always do all my major Porting with the Head's X-lengthwise perpindicular to myself
one view looking thru Intake Ports , flip it , look thru Chambers/Bowls towards Intake Port Entries ,
same thing on exhaust sides .

the Tip or Trick is : to do final Porting looking at the Cyl Head Ports/Bowls from all directions .
meaning , flip the Heads on either ends , place the Heads every which way and do your final Porting ,
i think you end up with a better product that usually will Flow more CFM + have a more consistent Port Shape ,
than if you just Ported with the Head in only a few positions !

Jimmy Bell in 1980's had a wooden box he placed Heads in to Port at many angles
then another Box that have multiple Levels , so he could stand a Head on its ends ,
and each Cylinder would be on the same Level , nearly Eye level on either end with his setup

[bill jones]

---here is a head stand I built for porting
---don't know know why it doesn't show up
---if I double click on the link it shows as a download that opens when I click on the download


---

head stand for porting with 2 Subaru heads.odt

[midnightbluS10]

Seriously part-time & infrequent porter here. I started out using an air grinder, but switched to one of the older Makitas years ago.

The air grinder I have is small, so long-shank burrs seem awkward to control. Perhaps a different air grinder might be better, but my noisy compressor cycling on & off gets really annoying. The last time I used it was to round off the leading edges of my crankshaft's throws.

I like the idea of a foot-pedal speed control for an electric grinder. What I've been using is a cheap slider control to keep the RPM in check, especially if using an aluminum burr that chews up material so much faster. The Harbor Freight dial-style looks nice, but not really different in function.

...

Put a bigger dial on it and you can increase the "control resolution" substantially. Meaning the larger the dial, the finer the control and more resolution you have to dial in the speed you're looking for. Instead of having an inch of travel to adjust speed and try and find a sweet spot, you might have 4 inches or whatever the circumference of the dial.

Not sure if it would even be beneficial in this case. It's actually something I realized works on my electric guitar pedals, of all things. And it would work the same in this situation, as well. As I said, though, I'm not sure if it would even be beneficial to have that fine of adjustment.

[BOOT]

---don't know know why it doesn't show up
---if I double click on the link it shows as a download that opens when I click on the download

Prrob the file type, not a jpg

Open it with paint or w/e pic editor you use and save it as jpg

[BOOT]

I've been procrastinating making a vid showing how I made the head stand I have, it's not hard but I'm sure it'll be useful for some. Gotta finish up the vid I'm working on and actually was just talking to someone bout doing the stand vid next but I got a new part on the way so I'd rather do that first.

edit: Honestly I have to stop myself from a lot of post because of my vid plans or stuff I'm working on for future content LOL

[BOOT]

I didn't expect to like this Metabo die grinder more than the Makita.

https://youtu.be/OcuJnqZcIL4

[BradH]

I didn't expect to like this Metabo die grinder more than the Makita.

https://youtu.be/OcuJnqZcIL4

Interesting video, thanks. I don't know if it's pronounced MET-ah-bo or Met-AH-bo, either.

My Makita is an older rocker-switch model. A paddle switch is probably better, but a smaller nose (collet) like the Makita has is more usable for me.

[BOOT]

Interesting video, thanks. I don't know if it's pronounced MET-ah-bo or Met-AH-bo, either.

My Makita is an older rocker-switch model. A paddle switch is probably better, but a smaller nose (collet) like the Makita has is more usable for me.

Thx!

It'd be nice if the Makita Compact had a paddle switch option.

[Powertrip]

The only thing that I can compare this to is that I'm redoing my lil' SF-110 w/ higher capacity intake motors. In order to have more flexibility on vacuum motor speed -- and also not have to run them at 100% at lower lifts --, I'll be running the power through a Variac to let me dial down the motor speed, in addition to having the vacuum depression control on the bench.

Any chance we could get a separate thread on this project?

[BradH]

The only thing that I can compare this to is that I'm redoing my lil' SF-110 w/ higher capacity intake motors. In order to have more flexibility on vacuum motor speed -- and also not have to run them at 100% at lower lifts --, I'll be running the power through a Variac to let me dial down the motor speed, in addition to having the vacuum depression control on the bench.

Any chance we could get a separate thread on this project?

I'll see what I can do... It "should" have been completed a long time ago, but I kept de-prioritizing it since I haven't been doing any head porting for a few years.