MIG WELDING CAST IRON OLDS HEADS WITH CROWN 44-30 WIRE

[RW TECH]

Guys,

I have a pair of Oldsmobile C heads that I am working on for a relative's 442 restoration and I want to build up the center exhaust dividers to make them flush with the gasket surface, and to make them wider to straighten that wall in the port.

Crown Alloys has a mig wire (Royal 44-30) that is made for cast iron and I am considering this as an option, since it may not require much or any pre and post heating if I take my time and slow-roll through this (instead of welding an entire section all at once).

This is a link to Crown's PDF tech sheet for 44-30:
http://www.crownalloys.com/TechSheet/CA ... e)_PWP.pdf

Have any of you used this wire, and if yes do you have any insights or experiences you can share?

Also, if anyone has suggestions on a better method to build up the Olds port dividers besides welding I am all ears. My original plan was to cast some ZA-12 or aluminum from old pistons, but I am not convinced that this will survive in this application. This will be driven on the freeway for hours at a time.

[nhrastocker]

Guys,

I have a pair of Oldsmobile C heads that I am working on for a relative's 442 restoration and I want to build up the center exhaust dividers to make them flush with the gasket surface, and to make them wider to straighten that wall in the port.

Crown Alloys has a mig wire (Royal 44-30) that is made for cast iron and I am considering this as an option, since it may not require much or any pre and post heating if I take my time and slow-roll through this (instead of welding an entire section all at once).

This is a link to Crown's PDF tech sheet for 44-30:
http://www.crownalloys.com/TechSheet/CA ... e)_PWP.pdf

Have any of you used this wire, and if yes do you have any insights or experiences you can share?

Also, if anyone has suggestions on a better method to build up the Olds port dividers besides welding I am all ears. My original plan was to cast some ZA-12 or aluminum from old pistons, but I am not convinced that this will survive in this application. This will be driven on the freeway for hours at a time.

Rob,

Here is great guidance. I prefer MIG welding the divider since it will not crack.

https://www.weldpundit.com/mig-weld-cast-iron/

[RW TECH]

Rob,

Here is great guidance. I prefer MIG welding the divider since it will not crack.

https://www.weldpundit.com/mig-weld-cast-iron/

Thanks Joe!

[1980RS]

I have welded cast iron with Muggyweld, worked good for me.

[jeff swisher]

I used Eutectic XYRON 244 rod in my AC225 welder and did not heat the heads.
Never cracked but I would lay a 1/4" bead and wait a couple minutes and lay another and wait and then another it basically pre heated by welding.
I had an old guy tell me to do it that way.

I also welded up the exhaust port roof over 3/4" taller then ported it higher and installed a plate in the header tube to lay in the bottom of the exhaust port .
I wanted the exhaust to exit the head without turning down.

I noticed no power gains.
Never cracked anything though and these were junky J casting heads.

If I had a mig 30 years ago I probably would have tried that.

I had that same Eutectic 244 rod when I was working on some 601 iron sbc heads and I put a nice deep divot in the 45 degree seat.
I was not about to sink the valve and not installing a seat.
I thought I would just touch that rod for a second to the divot and grind it down.

It worked like a charm and I just pulled those heads after over 200,000 hard miles.
Things we will do to our own personal vehicles

[racear2865]

Ive used MuggyWeld and did several with tig and Silicon Bronze
reed

[Chris_Hamilton]

Cracking comes from the carbon in the cast iron being sucked into the filler metal. I think the technical term is "carbon migration". Filler metal gets harder because of that and can/will crack. The easiest method IMO would be to braze it, meaning join a piece of steel to the cast iron by brazing then shape it how you want. IMO the best way to actually weld it, is using a cast iron flux and gas which limits the amount of carbon migration, or using the stick welder with that type of flux coated rod.

TMTechnologies sells the flux.

https://www.tinmantech.com/

[MadBill]

How about forming steel tongues to match the edge contour of each port pair and welding them to the header flanges?

[mag2555]

I think madbill’s steel spacer / dividers are the best way to go even though you will have to make 6 of them to keep the spacing equal if your not making custom headers.

By the way that Exh port wall that kicks over is not where the main restriction to flow is in those center exh ports .

Yes that kick over does have a small effect on flow, but nothing like further in the port where the main restriction area is.

[RW TECH]

How about forming steel tongues to match the edge contour of each port pair and welding them to the header flanges?

I think it's a good idea BIll, but I'm not sure how much room is there for the headers to mate up on a roll-in or straight shot onto the heads with everything in the car. The car is about 100 miles from me so mock-trial exercises are barely possible.

[RW TECH]

I think madbill’s steel spacer / dividers are the best way to go even though you will have to make 6 of them to keep the spacing equal if your not making custom headers.

By the way that Exh port wall that kicks over is not where the main restriction to flow is in those center exh ports .

Yes that kick over does have a small effect on flow, but nothing like further in the port where the main restriction area is.

I'm also working on those areas in addition to building up the dividers. I want that wall to come out straighter, and what makes me want to build up the gasket surface is to help the gaskets to survive & hopefully not blow out as easy as they do without the bridge & landing in the middle.