Solid roller lifters on hydraulic roller cams

[408 Nova]

The whole reason I asked was that I have a drag solid roller I want to pull out of an SBC, put a hydraulic roller in, and run that engine on the street. Swapping over to a hydraulic roller cam and having to buy lifters is an expensive deal, lol. It looks like I'm gonna have to bite the bullet and do it though, according to what I'm reading on here. Plus get a set of matching valve springs.

I was trying to be a cheapskate by running solid rollers on a hydraulic roller cam.

The drag solid roller has a Competition Cam's TK intake lobe and an RZ exhaust lobe, both with .430" lift. I'm pretty sure that TK wouldn't make it long on the street without tearing up a lifter body or something of that nature, as Competition Cams advertises that TK as their fastest acting lobe off the seat up to .050" or so.

Gonna go to their 12-871-11. It's a drag hydraulic roller cam. Being hydraulic, I think reliability should be way up over my current cam. Specs are 313/325 duration at .006" lift I believe, and 260/270 at .050".

Lift is .597"/.582".

LSA is 108.

Or how about a solid street roller? I'm gonna have to change springs anyways?

[CamKing]

Or you could have your mechanical roller cam reground to more "Street friendly" profiles.

[408 Nova]

Or you could have your mechanical roller cam reground to more "Street friendly" profiles.

Reckon how much that costs these days?

[PackardV8]

Or you could have your mechanical roller cam reground to more "Street friendly" profiles.

Reckon how much that costs these days?

Much less than a new cam.

I've mentioned before, there are many cam regrind shops, but the masters they have are the masters they have and not all masters were created equally.

If you are willing accept close enough on a master copied off someone else's cam, it's cheap. For example, my guy will do the closest master he's got for $100 plus shipping.

However, if you want to specify exactly the finished product and have it ground from a master made off a CNC program, then it's more.

Easiest out for you is send it back to Comp for regrind.

[CamKing]

Or you could have your mechanical roller cam reground to more "Street friendly" profiles.

Reckon how much that costs these days?

About $260

[408 Nova]

My core is a shade over 1" on the base circle.

Also, my core is on a 104 lsa. Can y'all do anything with that?

[bob460]

The whole reason I asked was that I have a drag solid roller I want to pull out of an SBC, put a hydraulic roller in, and run that engine on the street. Swapping over to a hydraulic roller cam and having to buy lifters is an expensive deal, lol. It looks like I'm gonna have to bite the bullet and do it though, according to what I'm reading on here. Plus get a set of matching valve springs.

I was trying to be a cheapskate by running solid rollers on a hydraulic roller cam.

The drag solid roller has a Competition Cam's TK intake lobe and an RZ exhaust lobe, both with .430" lift. I'm pretty sure that TK wouldn't make it long on the street without tearing up a lifter body or something of that nature, as Competition Cams advertises that TK as their fastest acting lobe off the seat up to .050" or so.

Gonna go to their 12-871-11. It's a drag hydraulic roller cam. Being hydraulic, I think reliability should be way up over my current cam. Specs are 313/325 duration at .006" lift I believe, and 260/270 at .050".

Lift is .597"/.582".

LSA is 108.

Or how about a solid street roller? I'm gonna have to change springs anyways?

If your wanting to be a cheapskate (nothing wrong with that)..........sell your current cam, lifters, springs etc and buy a flat tappet cam, lifters from mike.

[CamKing]

Also, my core is on a 104 lsa. Can y'all do anything with that?

That would be an issue.
I could widen it to a 107 LSA, at the widest.

[F-BIRD'88]

Might consider analyzing the lift curves and lash ramps of your existing Comp TK/RZ cam to see what it migbt do or not do as fsr as durability on your motor build.
What are the lash ramps. What happens if you run the lash tighter.. Will it run to X rpm with a somewhat reduced valve spring force as a end to increases service life.

Those lobes may not be so bad if used correctly.

[Monza355]

The whole reason I asked was that I have a drag solid roller I want to pull out of an SBC, put a hydraulic roller in, and run that engine on the street. Swapping over to a hydraulic roller cam and having to buy lifters is an expensive deal, lol. It looks like I'm gonna have to bite the bullet and do it though, according to what I'm reading on here. Plus get a set of matching valve springs.

I was trying to be a cheapskate by running solid rollers on a hydraulic roller cam.

The drag solid roller has a Competition Cam's TK intake lobe and an RZ exhaust lobe, both with .430" lift. I'm pretty sure that TK wouldn't make it long on the street without tearing up a lifter body or something of that nature, as Competition Cams advertises that TK as their fastest acting lobe off the seat up to .050" or so.

Gonna go to their 12-871-11. It's a drag hydraulic roller cam. Being hydraulic, I think reliability should be way up over my current cam. Specs are 313/325 duration at .006" lift I believe, and 260/270 at .050".

Lift is .597"/.582".

LSA is 108.

Or how about a solid street roller? I'm gonna have to change springs anyways?

What valve springs are you running with your current camshaft ?

[408 Nova]

The whole reason I asked was that I have a drag solid roller I want to pull out of an SBC, put a hydraulic roller in, and run that engine on the street. Swapping over to a hydraulic roller cam and having to buy lifters is an expensive deal, lol. It looks like I'm gonna have to bite the bullet and do it though, according to what I'm reading on here. Plus get a set of matching valve springs.

I was trying to be a cheapskate by running solid rollers on a hydraulic roller cam.

The drag solid roller has a Competition Cam's TK intake lobe and an RZ exhaust lobe, both with .430" lift. I'm pretty sure that TK wouldn't make it long on the street without tearing up a lifter body or something of that nature, as Competition Cams advertises that TK as their fastest acting lobe off the seat up to .050" or so.

Gonna go to their 12-871-11. It's a drag hydraulic roller cam. Being hydraulic, I think reliability should be way up over my current cam. Specs are 313/325 duration at .006" lift I believe, and 260/270 at .050".

Lift is .597"/.582".

LSA is 108.

Or how about a solid street roller? I'm gonna have to change springs anyways?

What valve springs are you running with your current camshaft ?

AFR #8000, PAC spring #1243

[TjelvarEverett]

They did this on engine masters with a sbc. Put solid rollers on and left the springs on from the hydraulic roller cam. Only changed the lifters. Brule set the lash at zero cold. Motor gained about 10 hp. They agreed that they had no idea how long it might last but it worked fine them.

[In-Tech]

It really just depends on the lash ramp. The suck about the aftermarket is there are some good knowledgeable people out there and then there is not. How is a lay person to know Mike(CamKing) knows what he is doing, John and Russ at Erson do too. I don't trust a facking thing out of Comp and others. Plenty of profiles out there and it seems even the peeps that work at these different companies don't know a what or why

[frnkeore]

They did this on engine masters with a sbc. Put solid rollers on and left the springs on from the hydraulic roller cam. Only changed the lifters. Brule set the lash at zero cold. Motor gained about 10 hp. They agreed that they had no idea how long it might last but it worked fine them.

I didn't know about this SBC but, as I posted, above, both 1st and 2nd place in the 2019 EMC, did the same thing. Blair (1st place Ford 390) did give his application some lash. I think in the <.008 range.

Neither said how much HP or TQ it added but, both could have used ANY cam they wanted. They weren't using left over parts to save money.

[F-BIRD'88]

If UDHarold was still with us he would be able to shed some practical light on solid roller lifters on street/endurance purpose solid roller cams.
Physics, forces, practical mechanical limits.
Lash ramps, open and close flanks.
Setting valve lash +/-. service life. Inspection maintenance of high performance mechanical systems.
IMHO if you were to look at his Street- Strip - endurance purpose "low lift" solid street roller cams series you might get some clues.
If you read up on a lot of what he has shared on various forums there is a lot there.
The Crane Cams SR street roller series cams will show some design clues also.
I've had good results with the Comp Extreme Energy solid street rollers series.. If you don't like the SADI cast cam cores all you need do is order the optional steel street roller cam core you want.
They work pretty good especially if you keep the lash a bit more tighter. You give up a bit of added seat to seat running duration but the noise and durability gains are worth it on a setup that has to last longer for you. (service life)
What looks good on a brief dyno test may not be whats going to last for you.