HV oil pump/too much oil on top Q

[swampbuggy]

Do you have a block off plate where a mechanical Fuel pump would normally be installed ? Mark H.

[BTZ201]

Just a more simple approach, maybe just change valve seals???
I had great luck in the past changing from PTFE style to the VITON style....
Thanks,
Brent

[Belgian1979]

Do you have a block off plate where a mechanical Fuel pump would normally be installed ? Mark H.

yes, there is one.

[Belgian1979]

Just a more simple approach, maybe just change valve seals???
I had great luck in the past changing from PTFE style to the VITON style....
Thanks,
Brent

I have already tried that before. That's when I also found that some valves cold be wiggled around.

[allencr267]

Assuming this engine with high compression & lube consumption had this treatment.

polishing piston rings?
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=64348



The lack of radiused ring talk was deafening.
That drawing looks greatly exaggerated & not close to scale.
What do yours look like?

[Belgian1979]

Assuming this engine with high compression & lube consumption had this treatment.

polishing piston rings?
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=64348



The lack of radiused ring talk was deafening.
That drawing looks greatly exaggerated & not close to scale.
What do yours look like?

It's been too long to remember that exactly, but I tried the same thing on a scrap ring and it is a very tiny radius. I went over it one time only, like described in the book. Hardly visible and to the touch not much different, a bit less likely to cut your skin on the edge, just as. Mr. Vizard describes. As said in the previous posts, since then I measured the blow-by and it seems to be within limits. Compression also.

See also this thread: viewtopic.php?t=27938

[swampbuggy]

Do you have a block off plate where a mechanical Fuel pump would normally be installed ? Mark H.

yes, there is one.

Here is a thought, make an aluminum plate say .500 thick and drill and tap for at least a 1/2 NPT fitting and run a hose of choice to a vented catch tank mounted not too far from the plate. The undesired crankcase pressure starts in the lower part of the engine so why not try to let the pressure out from that area. Comments please, Mark H.

[Belgian1979]

Hi Mark, thanks, but I don't think that I need to do this as when I have my pcv hooked up, there is no vapour, no nothing coming out of the breather hole, no pressure at all, so I don't think I have too much pressure in the crank case.
Thanks for looking into this.

[Belgian1979]

I got myself a leakdown tester and want to check a couple of things to make sure I'm not doing anything wrong here. When hooked up and going to 100 psi input pressure the needle on the leakdown meter goes up all the way, I mean less than 0%...I have to reduce the pressure to about 50-70 psi to get a reading. At 70 psi it is still near 0% leak. Did this on 2 cilinders so far as I started out pretty late but they are both behaving exactly the same.

The procedure I used was to put the cylinder on TDC, hook up the tube and then pressure while increasing this to about 100 psi.

Also, this is still tested on a cold engine.

Only hear air in the crankcase.

Am I doing something wrong here?

[fabr]

Reason for edit : Decided not to reply.

[dannobee]

Did you calibrate it first to shop air? With the leakdown tester hooked up to shop air but NOT to the cylinder, move the regulator knob until both gauges show 100psi. Then remove the shop air, install the hose into the spark plug hole, then hook up the leakdown tester to both the cylinder hose and the shop air hose. Read the leakage on the second gauge.

[Belgian1979]

No I didn't calibrate it. I was also not on tdc on the compression stroke. Difficult to see as I cannot take my valve covers of without also taking of the airboxes which is a pain.

What is considered normal on a cold engine? (forged pistons)

[fabr]

Yes ,calibrate as dannobee described. Do not add oil to the cylinder before doing the leak down test for any reason.Then you MUST bring each cylinder being tested to TDC so that when air is introduced both valves are closed and the piston will stay at top of travel. Tip;do not leave a wrench on the crankshaft bolt when introducing ait into cylinder.It matters little if the engine is cold or "hot" . A reasonably healthy engine will definitely have around 5% or less leakage. A really healthy engine will be less than 2%. Open throttle and listen for escaping air. Do the same at the end of header or tailpipe and at any convenient spot to listen in on the crankcase.

[fabr]

Assuming this engine with high compression & lube consumption had this treatment.

polishing piston rings?
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=64348



The lack of radiused ring talk was deafening.
That drawing looks greatly exaggerated & not close to scale.
What do yours look like?

Any modern ring manufacturer will de-nut you for doing that to their rings. Lightly debur of the end gaps is all that is to be done. That small radius will defeat the purpose the second ring serves which is oil control.

[fabr]

Just to clarify,you will know you are on TDC with both valves closed when the piston does not slam to BDC when air is introduced. Again,DO NOT leave any wrenches on whatever you used to turn engine to TDC when introducing air.