Repair a cranksnout

[Alaskaracer]

So how about my snout? Is thermal spray weld ok?

Googled it and saw that they use that method to repair big cranks in tanker engines so must not be that bad?

It'll be fine...I'd have them do it and not worry about it.....The last crank I had before what I have now had been hurt twice and rewelded on the same journal...had zero issues with it, turning almost 8k. I swapped it out after last engine kicked out two rods (was a bearing issue I later learned) and only because the whole journal turned black halfway up the throw....wasn't going to chance it after that.....

[racetowin]

I don’t want someone else getting sucker-punched by Mile High. I know that they “had” a good reputation before I went there, according to many who had used Dave years ago, but I am afraid that isn’t the reality now.

I am the guy with the somewhat rare 455 Olds Forged crank (the one Vortecpro referenced above)that Dave promised he would take care of us on…. Multiple times.

Dave seemed like a very nice guy, and I am sure he cares about the very expensive race cranks and builders of mega-dollar engines, but, after the third time of measuring and dragging our crank back to his shop to get them to correct it for the desired bearing clearances I needed, I knew it wasn’t going to get fixed at Mile High Crankshaft. He was having his wife grind the cranks for the “little-guys” that they could risk not doing quality work on. We were the recipient of that poor quality work done by someone whose talent or training wasn’t up to task. They are so busy that they let the other talented crank grinder go that used to work for them, and the wife is now who will likely grind the majority of the every-day, walk-in work.

If you watch that video of the crank with the Arnold gauge bouncing around, that was our crank after Mile High had it for the third time. Talk about non-concentric…. Also, the journals were sloped from one side to the other, having larger sizes on one end and gradually getting smaller at the other end of the journals. The crank snout was also bent .004 when I received it back. It was likely bent before they began grinding on it, but if so, that should be corrected so it turns true before grinding.

How did I know all of this? I was checking it myself and knew it wasn’t right by my gauges and tools, and I knew if my simple tools were showing errors and differences, proper metrology tools would surely bring even more to light.

Vortecpro was watching my build thread and all the struggles we were having, and he stepped up to inspect the crank and fix this mess that had been created by Mile High.

The crank was basically brought back from nearly being scrapped by Vortecpro, and was fully corrected in all ways.

It has since made over 20 Dyno pulls, eclipsing 600hp in an Olds 468 street/strip build that included many more hours of Vortecpro’s meticulous work and machining. There were several things that I wish we could have done even better or different, but our budget was already taxed well beyond our original scope with all the 2nd and 3rd time re-do work from other shops. We have been tuning the engine and new build on the car for over 100 street miles now as well and the oil pressure is the same every time when hot at idle or higher RPM.

I don’t say these things to be hateful or ill-willed towards a shop, on the contrary, I say this to hope to keep others from suffering the same pitfalls.

I can’t thank Vortecpro enough on this.

[Dan Timberlake]

What tore up the snout? I'm guessing a loose damper bolt plus a slip fit damper.
There are several interfaces between the damper bolt and washer, damper and timing sprocket that need to be smooth and flat.
Also the chamfer on the timing sprocket bore.
Burrs, dents etc on any of those can embed and will create a "loose damper bolt."


I'd be concerned about the transition from the snout diameter(s) ti the face of the journal that the timing sprocket gets clamped against,
If done right, and the damper is torqued properly, the snout //should// not be subjected to much bending load.
" Right" to me would be original crank steel with a well formed radius and a a smooth perpendicular ground face for the sprocket to seat against.
https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61V ... L1500_.jpg

Having that area built up with metal spray, even if machined beautifully, would NOT be "right."

Having the key seat extend into the radius is not a good detail

[Truckedup]

I had a bike crank spray welded to repair the end snout that gets a large roller bearing pressed on.The snout is 1-1/8 diameter.. It was turned down .010, welded,then machined to size. No problems...I was told this is often done large Diesel cranks...Supposedly the spray welding won't overheat the crank. .It cost me 100 bucks a few years ago..

[rustbucket79]

So how about my snout? Is thermal spray weld ok?

Googled it and saw that they use that method to repair big cranks in tanker engines so must not be that bad?

If it’s done correctly it’ll be fine.

[BillK]

I hope Mark doesn't mind me responding, I have been talking to him on another forum. His crank snout got messed up while installing a damper that was probably too tight.

Personally I would clean up the snout so it is round and then get ATI to make a damper with the correct id hub. Or maybe even just try a different brand damper and see how much press fit it has. I believe that where he stands right now he has about .0003 press with his present damper.

[Chris_Hamilton]

Try mile high crankshaft see what they will tell you but you will have to wait for a response they are busy there also on Facebook.

Dave is always SWAMPED.......but his work is second to none......Great guy though.

What about his wife's work? OP if you can find a a good crank guy you can weld it up, but a wet mag needs to be done before anything.

Heres a video of Daves work........https://youtu.be/kma8_ETQrZ8

Good rep or not after the third time that is piss poor work. Unacceptable IMO. I've seen this alot in my field of Restoration/Paint/Metalwork/Bodywork. High level, good reputation "name" Shop's doing shit work. Ask me about a 56 Chevy done by a very well known Shop. Brought to me after paint was bubbling in places. Upon stripping it I found up to an inch of body filler in places. I won't name who it was, but folks would be shocked if I did.
Crap work needs to be called out regardless of who does it.

[Big bald guy]

Didn't want to stray from the original question but,
all stories have two sides, I would like to hear Dave's side of the story regarding the Olds crank.

[Dave Koehler]

So how about my snout? Is thermal spray weld ok?

Googled it and saw that they use that method to repair big cranks in tanker engines so must not be that bad?

You will be fine with the spray weld and grind. Done all around the world.
All the snout has to do is sit there and hold an HB. Not like it's got a rod slamming down on it.
BTW. I must assume you will be getting a new HB and set it for proper press fit.
Same old balancer = same results.

Edit: Just saw BIllK post. Yup, .003 is bit tight and if it doesn't start straight it's screwed from the start.