Building an engine test stand, need advise

[rickseeman]

I was wondering how wide it needs to be? I don't want it to torque over if someone blips the throttle. Right now I'm planning on a 24" left to right wheelbase on the casters. And it would be 60" long. Any tips would be appreciated. Photos would be great too. Thanks. Rick

[77cruiser]

I was wondering how wide it needs to be? I don't want it to torque over if someone blips the throttle. Right now I'm planning on a 24" left to right wheelbase on the casters. And it would be 60" long. Any tips would be appreciated. Photos would be great too. Thanks. Rick

Make some swing out outriggers.

[427dart]

I took one of my engine stands and with some square tubing made bolt on parts to turn it into a engine run stand. Did this about 12 yrs, ago to run my new built 427windsor build. Everything worked out well. Here is a small picture of the back of it and I may have some others. The front tube had adjustable feet that extended out to help stabilize it and held the radiator.

[BOOT]

I seen some videos of run-in stands, so try a youtube search maybe. Seen a few with a nice wide square base. Also mounting the engine lower will make it less likely to tip, same for radiator but obviously you may want it a bit higher than the engine for easy bleeding.

[PackardV8]

We've got two for sale, depending upon how complete and how flexible you need them to be to accept different engines. Bit awkward to ship, but after you price steel, fabricators time, welder's time and they're probably a bargain.

jack vines

[ProPower engines]

I bought a factory built run stand but its about 30 inches wide and 6 1/2 ft long over all with the rad mounted.

Its basically an over glorified engine stand with a sliding set of mounts to make it easy to use the stock mount locations.
I have had mopar ford and gm engines of all kinds on it and they just mount to a std trans belhousing for those that use a belhousing mounted starter and an V8 GM will just bolt to the block in 4 places like an engine stand.

Make the stand off tubes at least 4 inch's long for flywheel clearance and some shorter ones for mounting on the belhousing.

And the fuel tank I used was a plastic type marine tank with a couple extra bulk head fittings for return lines and a holley fuel pump.
The battery mounts at one end on a tray and the fuel tank mounts at the front in the center with the fill at the front.
A drip tray goes over top of the fuel tank for draining the block when finished and to protect the fuel tank just in case.

PRW performance sells a ready made folding stand set up which is what I have with a few mods but they are about the best marketed stands I have seen.

The design and build to suit your needs will make life easier to run stuff but I get its nice to see what else is being used.

[bill jones]

---this link shows how I did my run in stand---with a 390 style Ford mounted on it

http://www.ryanbrownracing.com/Bill_Jones_Page_2.html

[Tom68]

Doesn't take much.

Running in a cam whilst waiting for the boat to arrive back in the day.
Water from the garden hose, if you do that with a thermostat in place you need a pressure controller or relief, 50 odd psi in the water supply.

https://youtu.be/mFKjCMYLtlk

27092012366.jpg

[Tom68]

There is no torque reaction unless you're driving something, even then it has to be separated with a flexible component to be able to tip over, rocking on rubber mounts when cracking the throttle would be acceleration rate against internal friction I guess.

[ProPower engines]

There is no torque reaction unless you're driving something, even then it has to be separated with a flexible component to be able to tip over, rocking on rubber mounts when cracking the throttle would be acceleration rate against internal friction I guess.

Ever tried running an engine on the floor??
crack the gas hard and it will dance all over the floor if it does not do a back flip 1st.
An engine stand will fly over as well if you try to run a nengine on it and hit the gas.
The rotational torque of the engine's flywheel by itself just running will be enough to make it want to rotate and hit the floor.
Some things we learn the hard way or watching others stuff happen right

[Tom68]

There is no torque reaction unless you're driving something, even then it has to be separated with a flexible component to be able to tip over, rocking on rubber mounts when cracking the throttle would be acceleration rate against internal friction I guess.

Ever tried running an engine on the floor??
crack the gas hard and it will dance all over the floor if it does not do a back flip 1st.
An engine stand will fly over as well if you try to run a nengine on it and hit the gas.
The rotational torque of the engine's flywheel by itself just running will be enough to make it want to rotate and hit the floor.
Some things we learn the hard way or watching others stuff happen right

Click my video link. that's me, 153 tooth flywheel.

I wouldn't leave one standing on the sump let alone try and run it like that.

Everything here gets a stand of some sort. Lets not talk about old mates exhaust seal.

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[Schurkey]

Ran an Olds 455 on the assembly stand for over an hour, using a water-glass product to seal a head-casting oopsie.

Ran a Pontiac 455 on the assembly stand to break-in the cam, and do final QA on the thing.

The Olds jiggled around more than I was thrilled with, so I hung the front of the Pontiac from my engine hoist with a chain. That also helped moderate the torque reaction--be careful opening and closing the throttle. Even with just a flexplate rather than a "real" flywheel, the engine will want to torque over when the throttle is opened--or closed--too quickly.

My "run stand" is an exhaust-pipe framework with a radiator, gauge 'n' switch panel, battery tray, etc. Works great for engines that have a starter bolted to the block. If the starter bolts to the bellhousing, you'd need a bellhousing, which spaces the engine farther forward, which might make the assembly stand unstable.

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Flex-tubing makes the exhaust "universal"; the rest of the exhaust is a take-off from my totaled '67 Dart GT with a leaning tower of power. Be sure to use muffler(s) of some sort, or you won't be able to hear engine problems--noisy lifters, crank hitting windage tray, etc.

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DSC_0016.JPG

The gauge panel swings inward, the legs fold-up, and the whole thing takes up very little space when not being used.

[Bill Chase]

The cheapo larin mets-1 is actually not bad, is adjustable. Take the casters they send with it and throw them in the trash. I looked at a lot of stands and diy plans prior to ordering it, and honestly for what it gives you I doubt you can build something as versatile and good for the money. That is if you place a value on your time.

It's portable, stores fairly well, even doubles as an engine cradle to keep my limited work area organized. If you have more time than money,or have a pile of steel tubing a welder, and skills maybe you can do it cheaper? I have all of that, and it proved more economical to purchase and modify to fit my needs.

[rfoll]

They don't have to be made out of large material. With a little thoughtful fabrication, 1" thin wall square tube will be fine. Mine is too damned heavy, the result of using what was on hand. An electric fan will simplify things, but it could require an alternator. My rdiator and gauges are mounted on a slide on tube setup that when removed makes mounting the engine easier. For Chevy engines the HEI distributor eliminates some wiring. Figure out an exhaust setup before building, it will often be in the way. Quiet mufflers help keep the noise down so you can hear loose lifters etc. Many of those parts for my stand are dedicated only for the stand. Swap meets are your friends.

[Ken_Parkman]

I made mine low so it doubles as a storage or shipping cradle. The rad, gages and systems are on a separate small stand so the whole thing takes up less room. Fits AMC and Willys Tornado.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k_ud7vRnTB8

Tornado on run stand.jpg