Engine Diagnosis

[rfoll]

I'm curious as to the significance of "(please don't say solder)" My standard wiring technique these days is to use a bare butt connector, crimp it, solder it, and cover it with a shrink sleeve. Does the solder add resistance?

[rebelyell]

I'm curious as to the significance of "(please don't say solder)" My standard wiring technique these days is to use a bare butt connector, crimp it, solder it, and cover it with a shrink sleeve. Does the solder add resistance?

I do as well. Sky ain't fallin' o'er 'ere. If it's a good, clean crimp, solder does not. Especially silver solder.

[skinny z]

I'm curious as to the significance of "(please don't say solder)" My standard wiring technique these days is to use a bare butt connector, crimp it, solder it, and cover it with a shrink sleeve. Does the solder add resistance?

The solder work hardens the joint and makes it subject to fatigue.
In an automotive application, where everything is moving all the time, this could lead to a fracture of the connection or splice. Consider that automotive wiring has a high strand count for a given gauge of wire so flexibility is the key here. Solder it and that flexibility is gone.

I'll fashion my connection with the appropriate terminal and tooling. In most cases, unless directed by a specific manufacturer's specification, this will be an insulated terminal. If weather resistance is required, then the entire connection will be covered in heat shrink tubing. \
It should be noted that I'm not necessarily referring to an all automotive application but the auto side emphasizes the need to maintain that kind of joint.
This is in regards to your conventional fork, ring and spade terminal style of connection. The metri-pak, weather-pak, et al, is another game altogether.

Notice that in a new OEM wiring harness, there isn't, as there used to be, a single drop of solder anywhere. At least not so far far as I have seen. Sort of like the fusible link...

[1980RS]

I'm curious as to the significance of "(please don't say solder)" My standard wiring technique these days is to use a bare butt connector, crimp it, solder it, and cover it with a shrink sleeve. Does the solder add resistance?

Only one way to find out if there is more resistance, do a voltage drop. You will want to see 0 volts on the circuit or wire.

[gridslammer]

The plug look dry a powdery, weak spark would be my guess

[rfoll]

I'm curious as to the significance of "(please don't say solder)" My standard wiring technique these days is to use a bare butt connector, crimp it, solder it, and cover it with a shrink sleeve. Does the solder add resistance?

The solder work hardens the joint and makes it subject to fatigue.
In an automotive application, where everything is moving all the time, this could lead to a fracture of the connection or splice. Consider that automotive wiring has a high strand count for a given gauge of wire so flexibility is the key here. Solder it and that flexibility is gone.

I'll fashion my connection with the appropriate terminal and tooling. In most cases, unless directed by a specific manufacturer's specification, this will be an insulated terminal. If weather resistance is required, then the entire connection will be covered in heat shrink tubing. \
It should be noted that I'm not necessarily referring to an all automotive application but the auto side emphasizes the need to maintain that kind of joint.
This is in regards to your conventional fork, ring and spade terminal style of connection. The metri-pak, weather-pak, et al, is another game altogether.

Notice that in a new OEM wiring harness, there isn't, as there used to be, a single drop of solder anywhere. At least not so far far as I have seen. Sort of like the fusible link...

The OEs do things for production. I have seen plenty of failed crimps, never anything I soldered. Sorry Vortecpro, this is getting way off subject.

[Schurkey]

My first thoughts were "Weak ignition", "too-cold heat range", and "contaminated fuel".

Will the ignition system reliably and consistently fire a spark-tester calibrated for HEI?

That's not fool-proof; ignitions are typically tested at cranking speed, but they're expected to work at 7K rpm (or more.) But it's a simple, easy, quick test using dirt-cheap equipment that catches a lot of marginal ignition systems. With some creativity, you can test 'em at "higher speed" spinning the distributor external to the engine--like on a distributor machine.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003WZXAWK/?c ... _lig_dp_it

My favorite style of spark-tester--conventional and HEI.

HEIsparktesters.JPG

HEI tester has recessed center electrode for a longer spark gap.

HEIsparktestergaps.JPG

Slice a straight spark plug boot to fit...

HEIsparktesterandboot.JPG

...and connect it to the center terminal of an HEI cap using an ordinary jumper wire to ground. (Leave all the wires connected to the cap; and given a choice I'll use a low-resistance center button as supplied by FAST or MSD.)

HEIsparktesterincap.JPG

Get the cap out of the way of the spinning distributor shaft, crank engine, watch (or listen) for sparks. They should be regular--not erratic.

[Schurkey]

Is this a Chevy V8 engine? If it's a Buick, Olds, or Pontiac V8, do you have the correct parts in the HEI?

Chevy, Cadillac, and Olds Toronado should have a pickup coil with a yellow color code, and an in-cap ignition coil with a red, and yellow wire.

All the rest should have an in-cap ignition coil with a red and white wire. Pontiac uses a clear color code for the pickup coil, Buick and Olds use the Black or Blue color code pickup coil. The B-O-P pickup coils are the same except for wire length--Pontiac has longer wires to fit the distributor housing.

Folks get by with using the wrong color codes (generally Chevy Yellow) but weird things happen when the wrong color-coded parts are used. However, the common problems are at cranking speed, not at running speed like you're having trouble with. And things get weirder yet when a person is using aftermarket "HEIs" in a Ford or AMC or International.

[skinny z]

Any help would be appreciated........

Any updates on this?

[vortecpro]

Any help would be appreciated........

Any updates on this?

No, I have not heard from the customer, I will let you know