Looking for some Help...SBC Oil fouling plug

[Horder]

Started pulling them all today. My plugs that started out looking good(3 of them) showed very little to no signs of oil being pulled through the threads. Other are washed right out. Oil under the guide plate where it gets sandwiched between the rocker stud and the boss on the head. Ones that sealed better had extra loctite 592 that had hardened against the guide plate. But….very little to none is hardened on the ARP bolt threads

[dannobee]

I've always used the GM 12346004 thread sealer on what you guys are calling parallel threads, just as recommended in the GM factory service manuals. Head bolts, intake bolts, rocker studs. We are forced to use Loctite products where I work now. 592 and 567. The GM stuff lists a cure time of 4 hours. Loctite 592, 72 hours.

I think the main issue is in the prep. Clean all of the holes out with a rifle barrel brush and brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol. Spotlessly clean. Then hit the threads on the studs. Bead blast if you think nothing is sticking to them. Liberally apply the sealant to the threads. You want it to ooze out to where you clean it up with a paper towel or rag. Then let it cure. Properly applied and cured, the studs will NOT leak.

[Tom68]

Started pulling them all today. My plugs that started out looking good(3 of them) showed very little to no signs of oil being pulled through the threads. Other are washed right out. Oil under the guide plate where it gets sandwiched between the rocker stud and the boss on the head. Ones that sealed better had extra loctite 592 that had hardened against the guide plate. But….very little to none is hardened on the ARP bolt threads

I had assumed those heads would use the head as a pushrod guide like originals, so I guess your guide plates have oval holes if oil got past.

[Horder]

I've always used the GM 12346004 thread sealer on what you guys are calling parallel threads, just as recommended in the GM factory service manuals. Head bolts, intake bolts, rocker studs. We are forced to use Loctite products where I work now. 592 and 567. The GM stuff lists a cure time of 4 hours. Loctite 592, 72 hours.

I think the main issue is in the prep. Clean all of the holes out with a rifle barrel brush and brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol. Spotlessly clean. Then hit the threads on the studs. Bead blast if you think nothing is sticking to them. Liberally apply the sealant to the threads. You want it to ooze out to where you clean it up with a paper towel or rag. Then let it cure. Properly applied and cured, the studs will NOT leak.

I dont think you could have described the process I followed much closer than u did. Maybe i have a bad batch. Possibly frozen in shipment? I do live in Canada. Lol

Other than scuff or bead blast the threads I took all of the above steps. No hurry here as this is my hobby. I did use a chlorinated break cleaner but it does say leaves no residue.

Ive been working on cleaning studs and guide plates this evening. Plan to clean the holes tomorrow. Im really struggling with the thought of using the loctite 592 again. I emailed their tech line this morning. No reply

Thanks again everyone for the info and patience!

[Horder]

Started pulling them all today. My plugs that started out looking good(3 of them) showed very little to no signs of oil being pulled through the threads. Other are washed right out. Oil under the guide plate where it gets sandwiched between the rocker stud and the boss on the head. Ones that sealed better had extra loctite 592 that had hardened against the guide plate. But….very little to none is hardened on the ARP bolt threads

I had assumed those heads would use the head as a pushrod guide like originals, so I guess your guide plates have oval holes if oil got past.

No Tom they have a separate guide plate with round holes roughly .020” bigger than the stud’s O.D.

Before I loosen the studs and remove them or the guide plate, I wipe any excess oil in the area up But, as you can see, there is no seal between the boss on the head and the bottom of the guideplate. I had the loctite 592 oozing up and wiped off the excess upon installation. Flat boss and guideplate were clean before installation as well

[Dan Timberlake]

Looks like all the sealing must be done on the threads.

[Tom68]

I've always used the GM 12346004 thread sealer on what you guys are calling parallel threads, just as recommended in the GM factory service manuals. Head bolts, intake bolts, rocker studs.

Me too. messy stuff.

I've used fuel resistant silicon on rocker studs but just a thin bead in the radius of the corner and oil the threads.

[Schurkey]

The GM thread sealer is almost certainly custom-packaged for GM by Loctite. Perhaps it's equivalent to 565, or 567. It may be equivalent to 592--592 is advertised as an OEM-equivalent product for GM.

The difference in cure time may or may not be "real"; it all depends on how you define "cured". "Cured" can be fully-hardened; or it can be "set enough to put the vehicle back into service."

Again, if you're having problems with 592 or any of the other anaerobic products not properly setting up (curing), consider using the aerosol activator linked-to in my previous post.

[steve cowan]

20220910_113039.jpg

This is what I use on head bolts into water,screw in studs,pipe plugs etc.
I final clean with acetone and compressed air.

[Tom68]

I told a lie, this is the actual messy GM sealer I use for wet head bolts..

20220910_115119.jpg

[Horder]

Well…the Loctite 592 was a failure. It was not cleanliness related. It should not have been cure time related. I looked back and it sat three days before valve were set. So either it did not like the materials or it was a bad tube of the product. I am certainly reluctant to use it again. I spent a few hours again today getting everything spotless for the next sealant. Although I dont know what I will use. Sooooo many different opinions on this one for something that should be so simple. Many hate the soft pipe sealants with PTFE, others swear by them as the only thing to use. Lots or permatex #2, Hylomar, and even a big crowd(including some big name builders) using The Right Stuff and Ultra Grey or Black. Not to mention the Threadlockers….lol

[Tom68]

If that'd been a fuel resistant silicon in that space and the thread lubed, there'd be no leak, a bead on the bearing surface of the stud, a light smear under the guide plate, lube the thread, tear off the excess silicon when it has set.

Otherwise the GM stud sealer, but that's not what it's made for, Hylomar would be more suited.

here.JPG

[Horder]

If that'd been a fuel resistant silicon in that space and the thread lubed, there'd be no leak, a bead on the bearing surface of the stud, a light smear under the guide plate, lube the thread, tear off the excess silicon when it has set.

Otherwise the GM stud sealer, but that's not what it's made for, Hylomar would be more suited.

here.JPG

I have given that a lot of thought. Considered some blue loctite on some threads from middle down and what u suggest up top

[Tom68]

Normally I get the black 3bond, but it's a little runny for the gap you have, then I just get whatever fuel resistant silicon that's on the shelf.

I have used the loctite master gasket in the red toothpaste type tube, but I'm not a big fan of it.

A liquid teflon on the threads would be fine as a lubricant, but as I've said, by its very nature it has to creep if the stud bearing surface hasn't been sealed.

[Horder]

Normally I get the black 3bond, but it's a little runny for the gap you have, then I just get whatever fuel resistant silicon that's on the shelf.

I have used the loctite master gasket in the red toothpaste type tube, but I'm not a big fan of it.

A liquid teflon on the threads would be fine as a lubricant, but as I've said, by its very nature it has to creep if the stud bearing surface hasn't been sealed.

That appears to be whats happening. With vacuum, hot oil, and no seal up top, the oil gets pulled through and takes the
sealant with it.