C10 350 eddlebrock 1826S won't run right

[Chickensoup2180]

First off, I would like to say that I rebuilt the carb. I found A LOT wrong with it, including a cut down piece of fuel hose blocking the channel between fuel bowls.

Issue is, it has a flat spot when I jam on the pedal, and back fires from the carb. I tried the shortest spring(lean) bd it made it WAY worse, so I put the longest spring(rich) back in for the metering valves.

The exhuast also smokes fuel. Like burn your eyes level. Which is why I'm confused because leaning it out doesn't make a difference on symptoms. The two idle mixture screws, do NOTHING.

I have the spacer between the carb. And I have a fuel pressure regulator installed. I also fixed all the vacuume leaks as this was a smog equipped truck.

Help please lol

[1980RS]

Did you take the top off and check the float levels? they are all over the place on new Eddy carbs and could cause problems.

[Chickensoup2180]

Stupid question but is eyeballing them good enough? I tried the after market set of floats, but something was seriously wrong with them because the carb started puking fuel out the top. So I switched back to stock floats and that stopped.

[1980RS]

Stupid question but is eyeballing them good enough? I tried the after market set of floats, but something was seriously wrong with them because the carb started puking fuel out the top. So I switched back to stock floats and that stopped.

Nope you have to set them to the right height and float drop. I use a drill bit at the end of the float. You can go to Edelebrock's web site to see how it's done.

[mag2555]

Setting the floats will do nothing towards getting the idle mixture screws to work friends!

All that matters for idle conditions is that there is enough fuel in each bowl for the motor to idle on, now if your talking about the accelerator pump working right, then that's a different story!

Question for the OP, is this a used Carb you picked up, or has this Carb been running right for you on another motor?

[BillK]

What year truck is it on ? Chevy ?

[jeff swisher]

Some floats will not fully seat the needle into the seat before the float arm hits the metal slosh baffle.

Float was soldered onto the arm at the wrong spot.
Flooding over will happen as the fuel is never shut off.

Remove the seats that the needles sit in and inspect the small screen filter that is in them for debris.

Blocking that fuel passage that joins the 2 fuel bowls is not an issue in fact it helps if you turn corners fast.

Edelbrock is a copy cat but some of that copy cat stuff should be eliminated to make a better product.

Stiffest spring available for the power piston may not be stiff enough.
There are many times I add an ink pen spring inside of the Edelbrock spring.
This way you can get the power enrichment to come in about at 9" vacuum range.

Run the stiff spring and keep going stiffer and make sure the pistons stay down at idle in gear or just crank idle down to 600-800 RPM to test.
That is very dependent on if your engine will idle that low.

Smell and burning of the eyes is ZERO indication of a rich mixture. Lean can smell and burn worse.
Put a catalytic converter on it if you wish to eliminate a bunch of smell.

Onto the accelerator pump.
Some people think the top hole is best as it may give you a longer pump shot but fail to realize this can have the pump rubber sitting above the fuel.
Go for the middle hole.
With a little pressure from your finger on the pump arm you should get fuel out of the squirters.
Check ball in the channel under the squirter can become stuck and I have seen that many times.

Some had check balls with brass puck on top of the ball and others had a brass puck with a needle shape to seal the channel.
Either way I have seen them stuck.

You can take an extension cord or speaker wire and strip some strands of wire from it and use this wire to clean the tiny passages in a carb.

[1980RS]

Setting the floats will do nothing towards getting the idle mixture screws to work friends!

All that matters for idle conditions is that there is enough fuel in each bowl for the motor to idle on, now if your talking about the accelerator pump working right, then that's a different story!

Question for the OP, is this a used Carb you picked up, or has this Carb been running right for you on another motor?

You may be wrong on that one. What happens if you raise the float level on a Holley higher than it needs to be but before it floods, it will make all the circuits run richer. I know for a fact that Eddy carbs run the best with 3.5 to 5.5 psi and have a much cleaner idle. I have has several Eddy carbs that ran like crap and found float settings all over the place, after re-setting the carb to factory specs as per the Eddy manual they all ran really good after that. Always go back to the basics when running and carb new or used.

[mag2555]

I have had much experience with the AFB type carbs over a 50 year period, in fact once with the two I had on my blower motor I had my fuel regulator go bad and only allow 3.5 psi, yet the motor was was idling away as if nothing had took place!

[Chickensoup2180]

Setting the floats will do nothing towards getting the idle mixture screws to work friends!

All that matters for idle conditions is that there is enough fuel in each bowl for the motor to idle on, now if your talking about the accelerator pump working right, then that's a different story!

Question for the OP, is this a used Carb you picked up, or has this Carb been running right for you on another motor?

Yeah, the accelerator pump works great. Just replaced it. Set on the lowest setting. It's a used carb. Have no idea what it was on or how it ran in its previous life. Thanks.

[Schurkey]

What year truck is it on ? Chevy ?

More specifically, what intake manifold? Iron, with the exhaust-gas channel under the front of the carb?



Rich-smelling exhaust is generally misfire, where the whole cylinder's charge of fuel goes out the exhaust valve. Even lean-misfire will smell eye-burning rich.

[V12MECH]

OP needs to give more background on this, the gang gave enough carb info, maybe an ignition problem, which a lot of "carb problems" end up being.

[Chickensoup2180]

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Ok. I ended up re re building the carb. Replacing the intake manifold and all the gaskets. Replaced the distributor and now it won't even run.

I feel it's a spark problem. It wants to start so bad but it just won't. Just catches. I removed the distributor and installed the new one the same way it came out. Played with the advance many times.

There's a pig tail with 4 connectors. On the old distributor, it went into the the dizzy body and connect to ground, and to some module inside.

On the new one, there is only two prongs on that module, and they do not go outside the dizzy body. What is this pig tail thing anyways for?

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[Schurkey]

WHAT VEHICLE?

You removed a computer-controlled distributor, or one with electronic retard/knock sensor, and installed a non-computer-controlled distributor?

[jeff swisher]

That picture of the pigtail was for the feedback computer controlled distributors sometimes you got them with vacuum advance and sometimes not.
We used to jump 2 of those wires together to make the distributor work without the computer in that 4 pin connector but I can't remember which 2.

It had a different module.
Someone here may chime in.