Blow by- bad honing?

[rgalajda]

RW TECH wrote: do about 10 strokes forward, then about five strokes backwards.

Can you elaborate what you mean by this. Never heard of this before.

[Tom68]

Blow by- bad honing?

The hone hasn't touched the critical area, that's bore wear.

[Dave Koehler]

When a cast ring won't seat the world is upside down.
Machine honed is the best but... a gazillion re-rings have been done without machines and sometimes without any honing at all (gasp).
pretty shallow cross hatch showing.
You would be better off with a brush (dingleberry ) hone. Followed by extreme cleaning.
This will likely be the strangest thing you hear in today's world....or not. You may want to use a plain old straight weight oil. At least at first (gasp).

[Hrdlx62]

Don't laugh.........too hard, but find a shop with an old piston knurler and snug em up. Hone the block correctly and fit the pistons. Not Ideal but could be an option.

[naukkis79]

If three-peace oil ring is assembled wrongly it will stick to it's groove. Sealing rings have to assembled on top of spacer. Pretty common mistake to install them wrongly.

[rebelrouser]

" I’m curious if my “quick hone job” is the culprit and would an inadequate hone job cause this much oil to get in the combustion chambers?? Maybe glazed cylinders?? If i could find .060 pistons, i would get it bored and do it right. Should i take it and get it honed at the shop? Any input is much appreciated."


Tom68
"That's not really honed, have you measured the bores ?
You need it machine honed, but only if your pistons can handle the extra clearance."

Tom68 is correct.
Sometimes " a picture is worth a thousand words " and it shows. If your not experienced with running a hone do get a proper deglaze and cross hatch pattern the end result will be a waste of time and money spent.
Take it to reputable machine shop and have everything checked out. Exceptable piston to bore clearance is about .0025" on these motors.

As others have said I don't see a correct crosshatch pattern, the angle of the crosshatch is controlled by the speed you stroke the drill while honing. A standard drill actually spins a little fast, so you have to stroke the drill fairly quickly to get a proper pattern. if the pattern is too flat as it appears in the picture then the cylinder walls will hold too much oil. If the pattern is too steep it does not hold enough oil, it has to be just right. Quick picture on what it should look like.

[Machtuck]

Thanks again for the advice guys. Thanks for the picture. I’m going to take the block in and have the machine shop hone it.

[chevyfreak]

I know it was mentioned valves and seats being done.
What type valve stem seals?

Chevyfreak.

[BCjohnny]

I’m going to take the block in and have the machine shop hone it

In all probability there's one of two things happening here, or maybe a combination of both

While sour bores will give oil burning by not letting the rings bed, a worn second ring groove will actually pump oil up the cylinder, overwhelming the top ring

After, or maybe before, you've had it honed I'd get in there with a bore gauge and take multiple measurements around each cylinder checking for taper and ovality regardless ...... no need to use a tenths gauge, one reading thous will be enough with what you're doing

And I'd also go over the piston ring grooves with a fine tooth comb, paying particular attention to the shape of the second ring groove ....... although it's often referred to as the second compression ring, it's mostly best described an auxiliary oil scraper

[Machtuck]

CF, they were the o-ring type installed by machine shop. I am unsure of the size.
Ok, o will start taking measurements to assess the cylinder shape. The second ring is the only ring that has a dot. I placed this dot “up”. I never did look for a bevel in this ring. Bad on me. I can see how the second ring would almost pull the oil. And for the amount of oil that I discovered in every cylinder, it makes sense. I’m going to order another ring pack and compare the rings. I’m not questioning QC of Hastings, I’m questioning me; the hapless assembler.

[chevyfreak]

CF, they were the o-ring type installed by machine shop. I am unsure of the size.

Reason i'm asking is it could be the cause of the oil in the intake. One of those cases of ask me how i know

Many shops gets the correct way of assembly wrong.
Look inside the spring, if the seals is on the stems or maybe even split open. Worth a check.

Correct way of assembly is spring with oil shield and retainer, compressed, then the seal fit into lower groove, then the locks onto stem and release the spring. The seal is now squeezed to seal in the lower section of retainer. And sealing oil running down the stem. Seal will last until disassembly. It cant move.
Oil shield controls splashing onto stem for lubrication. It will give a little smoke when cold, but as a driver you wont see it in your mirror.

Some pics included.

Chevyfreak.

[econo racer]

IMO the cross hatch was honed with too coarse of a stone. Sorry you had to pull it back out.

[mag2555]

If you did not with your used cylinders set your ring gap at the bottom of the bore where the ware is the least, then your gap may be too small and you have butted the rings up and bent them, or worse yet bust some.

[1972ho]

https://youtu.be/eUEtlGllJyQ Check out this video it’s at Gregg Anderson race shop honing a block with explanation of why engines don’t seal

[1972ho]

https://youtu.be/r-q0orDQXFU Are maybe you might check into this situation.