fabr wrote: ↑Mon Oct 03, 2022 7:36 pm
If I was betting I would put a few bucks on the pump bypass piston was stuck open. Check it for free operation when all bolted up on engine. Pull the spring out and verify free motion. Verify it does not stick even a little in the full open position.
Did you install the gallery plugs yourself? If so were they the drive in cups and did they go in snug and then were staked in place? That would be the second most likely culprit.
It's either of those or you have some seriously screwed up clearances . Cam bearings,rods or mains. That's about the only things it can be.
If you had started the engine even once maybe the distributor gear could have a sheared drive pin. But since you say the dyno guys also tried to prime it and got some pressure that is ruled out as any possibility. It will be interesting in what you discover.
All well noted. Not going to be here for a couple of days. Will be in the weekend.
I had the impression the piston of the bypass was not freely moving. I would think it would need to slide by itself which it wasn’t doing and it didn’t want to come out either (new Melling BTW).
A question: if I remember correctly these were pipe plugs.
In my other block (86 up -1piece rear seal) these front pipe plugs were some strange size that couldn’t be tapped and sit really deep. How do you stake these plugs?
Interesting you mentioned about that,I have a container full of the galley soft plugs,I done my 880 roller block about a month ago, I didn't like the fit of those front plugs they would go in tight but when I put a length of straight steel brake line in from the rear the plugs would come out easily.
I tapped NPT in front and fitted screw in plugs.fitted oilpump ( moroso billet) and 6 quart milodon pan,added break in oil and by hand with modified distributor/ welded bolt on top had 40psi .
fabr wrote: ↑Mon Oct 03, 2022 7:36 pm
If I was betting I would put a few bucks on the pump bypass piston was stuck open. Check it for free operation when all bolted up on engine. Pull the spring out and verify free motion. Verify it does not stick even a little in the full open position.
Did you install the gallery plugs yourself? If so were they the drive in cups and did they go in snug and then were staked in place? That would be the second most likely culprit.
It's either of those or you have some seriously screwed up clearances . Cam bearings,rods or mains. That's about the only things it can be.
If you had started the engine even once maybe the distributor gear could have a sheared drive pin. But since you say the dyno guys also tried to prime it and got some pressure that is ruled out as any possibility. It will be interesting in what you discover.
All well noted. Not going to be here for a couple of days. Will be in the weekend.
I had the impression the piston of the bypass was not freely moving. I would think it would need to slide by itself which it wasn’t doing and it didn’t want to come out either (new Melling BTW).
A question: if I remember correctly these were pipe plugs.
In my other block (86 up -1piece rear seal) these front pipe plugs were some strange size that couldn’t be tapped and sit really deep. How do you stake these plugs?
Interesting you mentioned about that,I have a container full of the galley soft plugs,I done my 880 roller block about a month ago, I didn't like the fit of those front plugs they would go in tight but when I put a length of straight steel brake line in from the rear the plugs would come out easily.
I tapped NPT in front and fitted screw in plugs.fitted oilpump ( moroso billet) and 6 quart milodon pan,added break in oil and by hand with modified distributor/ welded bolt on top had 40psi .
Have been reading about your problem, I just read about you noticed pressure relief piston in pump not freely moving, without spring you should be able to move it easily. Did you correct that problem? It's important to build oil pressure, the spring type will vary oil pressure at the high end , this is a problem with the quality of parts these days. I always check new pumps for free movement of this component!
All well noted. Not going to be here for a couple of days. Will be in the weekend.
I had the impression the piston of the bypass was not freely moving. I would think it would need to slide by itself which it wasn’t doing and it didn’t want to come out either (new Melling BTW).
A question: if I remember correctly these were pipe plugs.
In my other block (86 up -1piece rear seal) these front pipe plugs were some strange size that couldn’t be tapped and sit really deep. How do you stake these plugs?
Interesting you mentioned about that,I have a container full of the galley soft plugs,I done my 880 roller block about a month ago, I didn't like the fit of those front plugs they would go in tight but when I put a length of straight steel brake line in from the rear the plugs would come out easily.
I tapped NPT in front and fitted screw in plugs.fitted oilpump ( moroso billet) and 6 quart milodon pan,added break in oil and by hand with modified distributor/ welded bolt on top had 40psi .
What size tap did you use on that roller block?
1/4" NPT
be mindful they are a taper and you can tap in only so far with the ledge for soft plugs to bottom out on.
I went flush with the block but is not necessary as there is clearance between cam gear and front of block.
Just a friendly reminder it is not a 5 minute job .
steve cowan wrote: ↑Tue Oct 04, 2022 2:26 am
Interesting you mentioned about that,I have a container full of the galley soft plugs,I done my 880 roller block about a month ago, I didn't like the fit of those front plugs they would go in tight but when I put a length of straight steel brake line in from the rear the plugs would come out easily.
I tapped NPT in front and fitted screw in plugs.fitted oilpump ( moroso billet) and 6 quart milodon pan,added break in oil and by hand with modified distributor/ welded bolt on top had 40psi .
What size tap did you use on that roller block?
1/4" NPT
be mindful they are a taper and you can tap in only so far with the ledge for soft plugs to bottom out on.
I went flush with the block but is not necessary as there is clearance between cam gear and front of block.
Just a friendly reminder it is not a 5 minute job .
Even the 1/2'' galleries will have you shopping around for a 1/4 plug big enough to work, then you have to shorten them. Dedicated kits should take that into account. BSP and NPT, have slightly different diameters that can sometimes help, but they also have different thread counts in some sizes.
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Ignorance leads to confidence more often than knowledge does.
Nah, I'm not leaving myself out of the ignorant brigade....at times.
OE 880 block
IIRC, on Front of OE 880 block, All Right & Middle & Left sides have Cup plugs that're staked (chisel) and Both R&L have a small centered hole in each.
Seems OE Rear plugs are threaded.
No doubt; OE front plug holes are there for good reason.
Ok, went on with the testing. Cleaned the pump. Just to be sure I put the original spring from my old original motor in there. Filled it up with oil. Bleeded the line to the manometer and used a battery powered drill. Immediately went to 65 psi. So, happy days.
Think these guys did something wrong. Couple of reasons could be involved : filter used too much oil out of the pan in order to fill up and they didn't check the level anymore despite I supplied extra oil with it or they didn't bleed the line to the manometer.
Belgian1979 wrote: ↑Mon Oct 03, 2022 10:57 am
Got it back. It doesn't make any pressure at all...
Drill in reverse????
Air in the gauge's line adds about 1 second & smooths out it's response.
Dry filter takes about 3-4 sec & no more then 10, plus it's barely above zero pressure until it's full.
A spring difference from 38 to 65 would be significant & noticeable from across the room, let alone in your hand.
2 quarts/liters would'a been enough to fill & pressurize just about anything out there with a pickup in range.
Sorry, IDK & don't have a clue on what's going on with this.
Belgian1979 wrote: ↑Mon Oct 03, 2022 10:57 am
Got it back. It doesn't make any pressure at all...
Drill in reverse????
Air in the gauge's line adds about 1 second & smooths out it's response.
Dry filter takes about 3-4 sec & no more then 10, plus it's barely above zero pressure until it's full.
A spring difference from 38 to 65 would be significant & noticeable from across the room, let alone in your hand.
2 quarts/liters would'a been enough to fill & pressurize just about anything out there with a pickup in range.
Sorry, IDK & don't have a clue on what's going on with this.
Unless the piston of the bypass was stuck of course.
