Valve adjustment

[Mat-it]

Looking for experience with this. Just broke in my first rebuild of a Ford 5.8L roller for my towing truck, new aluminum heads with alum. roller rockers over Elgin lifters, .59 lift. I have a nagging faint tick(s) audible from the cab so I want to check valve adjustment. First time was done carefully on the engine stand, after checking geometry, using E/O, I/C method +1/2 turn, zero load found wiggling rod up-down. I am reading conflicting info on how to do this "simple" procedure properly. Found info on Grumpy site that states ultimate accurate way is with the engine running, add 1/4 turn after zero for max. oil flow, spring cooling. Then followed a link to century performance (tech zone) that says to do it the "correct way" with engine warmed up, off and start at #1 intake valve fully open to adjust opposite intake through the firing order, then exhaust. This site states NOT to adjust preload with lifters bled down and you can tell they are bled down because they will depress the valve instead of lifter cup??? Not grasping that. I am reading numerous posts about not adjusting preload with lifters pumped up.

So my questions are can you set preload with lifters pumped up? Is that more/less accurate than not pumped up? Is this valve full open/opposite method better than the common E/O, I/C way for getting lifter on cam heel? Should I just cut up a valve cover and do it running + 1/4 turn?

Thx

[BillK]

If this is just a towing vehicle I would have set the valves at 1 turn of preload myself. What does Elgin recommend ? I don't personally see what difference it makes as to the lifter being pumped up or not when setting the preload. You are still starting at zero lash and going from there.

Exactly which engine is it ? Are the aluminum heads stock or aftermarket ? I have found that aluminum heads and valve covers along with roller rockers always seem to let you hear more of the valve train noise.

In your case I would simply turn all of the nuts down 1/4 turn more and see if it clears up the noise. It wont hurt anything.

[prairiehotrodder]

i like the ICEO method. I usually go 3/4 turn on a stockish engine unless the instructions with the lifters say different. If you do it on fully filled up lifters it may just run rough for a minute after you start it. Its easy to make a mistake on setting valves. Needs your full attention. I wouldn't attempt to do anything with the engine running.

[Mat-it]

Engine is a '96 windsor so the heads are aftermarket. Near as I could find Elgin says 35 thou preload which I confirmed to be 1/2 turn with dial. I have read many saying roller noise is "normal", maybe some good steel rockers would help quiet them? Wondering if the engine break-in would have caused some to go out of preload range or cause tick at least. Is it better to adjust these hot or cold?

[BillK]

Engine is a '96 windsor so the heads are aftermarket. Near as I could find Elgin says 35 thou preload

Which lifters are they ? That really does not sound like enough even though in theory any amount of preload should work fine as long as there is some. I would pick up the phone and call Elgin and ask them. Either way an additional 1/4 turn wont hurt anything and its worth a try.

[F-BIRD'88]

You can try a but more preload. Adjust each while running. It will missfire briefly when adding the preload adjustment, then stabilize.
On my Comp extreme energy hyd which these XE cams can be a lil bit noisey at idle I found 1 turn preload best.
The engine oil you use also has a effect on how the hyd lifters function... On mine I found (Rotella T) 15w-40. quieter than 10w-30 grade oil.