Cam gurus, I need advice

[rfoll]

It's got a scat "cast steel" crank it and I'm not sure what kind of rpm it can tolerate. I never minded turning a 327 or 350 up but the longer strokes kinda make me nervous. Also, I've never done it with a hydraulic cam, I've always ran solid flat tappet cams, this is my first hydraulic roller and I'm not sure how to control the valve train with bricks for lifters.

I have flogged a number of stock 400 cranks at the drag strip and never had a problem. I do know of people running stock 400 cranks in road race applications and having breakage issues.I can't imagine the Scat crank ever having a problem.

[EDC]

My lifters are Lunati, I think they are the street hydraulic roller lifters.

Those are the Morel Street Performance lifters, and are made in Mexico.
They're fine with a mild hydr roller profile with moderate spring pressures.
I would not run them in any aggressive lobe profiles, or with heavy spring pressures.

Roxboro, North Carolina is now in Mexico?

[CamKing]

My lifters are Lunati, I think they are the street hydraulic roller lifters.

Those are the Morel Street Performance lifters, and are made in Mexico.
They're fine with a mild hydr roller profile with moderate spring pressures.
I would not run them in any aggressive lobe profiles, or with heavy spring pressures.

Roxboro, North Carolina is now in Mexico?

Did they move production out of Mexico, or just assembly ?
When ?

[smokie]

How long have they been made in Mexico? This set is about 7-8 years old, I just never used them until now. Are they suited for the cam I have or do I need to go with something else?

Their Street Series has always been made in Mexico. That's why they're half the price of the normal Morel HR lifters.
They would be fine with your current cam.

But would they be ok with your cam you recommended?

[EDC]

Those are the Morel Street Performance lifters, and are made in Mexico.
They're fine with a mild hydr roller profile with moderate spring pressures.
I would not run them in any aggressive lobe profiles, or with heavy spring pressures.

Roxboro, North Carolina is now in Mexico?

Did they move production out of Mexico, or just assembly ?
When ?

From start to finish... about ten years ago...

[CamKing]

Roxboro, North Carolina is now in Mexico?

Did they move production out of Mexico, or just assembly ?
When ?

From start to finish... about ten years ago...

Thanks for the info.
I stand corrected.

[CamKing]

But would they be ok with your cam you recommended?

I wouldn't run them with the cam I recommended.

[smokie]

Is there a way to tell which type the lifters are? I do know that they can't be taken apart. The lug that holds the link bar is in the way and won't let the pushrod plunger come out.

[skinny z]

Is there a way to tell which type the lifters are? I do know that they can't be taken apart. The lug that holds the link bar is in the way and won't let the pushrod plunger come out.

I'm aware that the street roller has a .700" diameter wheel.
The next step up has a .750".
Morel lists that as does Lunati.

1d17fuke5_384480.pdf

[skinny z]

I do know that they can't be taken apart. The lug that holds the link bar is in the way and won't let the pushrod plunger come out.

That part pisses me off to no end.
I've got an entirely serviceable set of COMP short travel lifters with steel bodies that I can't personally rebuild.
And COMP is no help.

[smokie]

The roller wheels are like a factory roller lifter, so I'm pretty sure that's going to be a .700" wheel diameter. I never even knew that they're was different sizes. I guess it's pretty obvious this is the first time I've ever fooled with a roller cam that wasn't a factory set up. I gotta say, I'm pretty aggravated with myself for not checking on this shit when I started this build. I'm about to say the hell with it and go back to a solid flat tappet or a solid roller. If I got to spend big bucks for lifters, I might as well make more power in the process. A solid flat tappet is looking better and better.

[6.50camaro]

I do know that they can't be taken apart. The lug that holds the link bar is in the way and won't let the pushrod plunger come out.

That part pisses me off to no end.
I've got an entirely serviceable set of COMP short travel lifters with steel bodies that I can't personally rebuild.
And COMP is no help.

Ya, I'd love to find a way to remove the rivet and replace it with some kind of bolt and button like Isky solids with the removable tie bar. Dan

[skinny z]

I do know that they can't be taken apart. The lug that holds the link bar is in the way and won't let the pushrod plunger come out.

That part pisses me off to no end.
I've got an entirely serviceable set of COMP short travel lifters with steel bodies that I can't personally rebuild.
And COMP is no help.

Ya, I'd love to find a way to remove the rivet and replace it with some kind of bolt and button like Isky solids with the removable tie bar. Dan

I'll have to check out that Isky arrangement.
Maybe using their hardware, an option might exist.
That said, I'll be buying new just the same. One link bar failure on a set of seasoned lifters is enough to ruin your day.

[skinny z]

Ya, I'd love to find a way to remove the rivet and replace it with some kind of bolt and button like Isky solids with the removable tie bar. Dan

Do you have a P/N for that Isky solid tie-bar lifter?

[6.50camaro]

Ya, I'd love to find a way to remove the rivet and replace it with some kind of bolt and button like Isky solids with the removable tie bar. Dan

Do you have a P/N for that Isky solid tie-bar lifter?

Its a big block lifter with a captured tie bar but 376RHM937 if you take a look at the allen head screw and the button you'll get the idea of what I mean. Dan

PS their sbc hi seat sbc lifters have the loose tie bar .