Filter cut database.

[Tom68]

If you have a filter bypass problem, you already have a problem.

Isn't opening the bypass just a big rev with racing 50 that hasn't been heated ?

Or a big engine with a shorty filter getting a cold rev ?

Anybody seen any tests related to this ?

[BILL-C]

For the last 18 months every engine we run in dyno room has been equipped with a Clearview remote oil filter assembly.
With the 60 micron screen installed we can really get a good idea what is happening inside the engine. This system is far superior to any conventional paper filter .One of the biggest surprises we encountered was the large amount of paper fibers that come off of paper filter elements and get circulated through the engine. My concern is how these fibers affect hydraulic lifter check valve function.

[RDY4WAR]

Finding metal in the oil filter after break-in is normal. No matter how good you clean the block, there will always be some small metal particles left behind that the oil will find. It's not a concern. You will also have micro-asperities that get knocked off by moving parts on initial startup, also not a concern.

Glitter in the oil can be difficult to decipher at times. If I see a lot of glitter, I will double strain a sample of the oil through a coffee filter (>99% efficient @ 2 um). If the glitter is from MoS2, from moly-based assembly lube, it'll pass right through as they are <1 um in size. Any hard metal particles will get captured which you then can test with a magnet to see if they're ferrous (iron) or soft metal (copper, aluminum, lead, etc...) to get an idea where it's coming from. If I still can't make a good determination, I'll send an unstrained sample to the lab for ICP, FTIR, GC, and Fe2P as needed. Most of the time, I'd say 9/10 times, the high amount of glitter is from moly-based assembly lube. Some metal is still there, but rarely the majority and within a typical saturation range.

You definitely want to use the most efficient full flow filter you can find for break-in. Amsoil Ea filters have consistently been excellent in filtration, followed very closely by Fram Titanium series which are sold only at AAP. The worst option is the Wix XP which is little more than a rock catcher. As far as reliability goes, Amsoil and Fram get the nod again. Purolator / Motorcraft is the least reliable currently as they've been plagued with media tearing problems since they were acquired by Mann+Hummel about 8 years ago. Wix was also acquired by M+H recently which is why they've also been in decline. Royal Purple and Mobil 1 EP filters are good middle-of-the-road options. K&N is on the less efficient side with great flow, good for normal race use, bad for break-in, but they are reliable.

The only time I've found chunks of filter media inside the engine was about 10 years ago when an ACDelco filter collapsed on a friend's engine. He blamed the filter, but the metal standpipe was mangled like you would see from a massive pressure spike. He was using a high volume, high pressure pump and deleted the filter bypass then started the engine and went straight to 2500 rpm on a straight 50 grade oil. The oil was forced through the media due to the deleted bypass (please don't ever do this) which it couldn't flow the big rush of that heavy molasses, pressure likely shot up to 200+ psi faster than the pump bypass could relieve it, and the filter collapsed. It wasn't the filter's fault as no filter could've handled that for very long.

The metal screen "60 micron" filters are absolutely atrocious when it comes to filtration. Please remove that and put a large canister filter on for the break-in. The 60 micron rating is a nominal rating meaning it's only 50% efficient at 60 um. The least efficient full flow canister filter, the Wix XP, is 88% @ 60 um. Please reserve those for racing use only, not for street use and definitely not for break-in.

Ways to mitigate actual wear during break-in is to do everything you can to make ZDDP as reactive as possible. This means using an actual break-in oil, firstly, as they are formulated to make ZDDP the star of the show, getting everything else out of its way. Aside from very high amounts of ZDDP (2500-3500 ppm), they also employ a more reactive type of ZDDP (typically a branched secondary alkyl ZDDP) that is much more sacrificial than the typical blended ZDDP in shelf oils and many "racing" oils and much more reactive than the linear primary alkyl ZDDPs found in HDMOs like Rotella. They are also free of friction modifiers and viscosity modifiers that can compete with ZDDP for surface area and reduce ZDDP's reactivity. Most importantly though, they contain very little detergent. Detergents are acid neutralizers and ZDDP is an acidic ester so you can see why they don't like each other. Formulating engine oils involves a careful balance of these 2, but for break-in, we throw that balance all the way in the ZDDP's favor. This is why simply dumping a supplement into a common shelf oil isn't the best option. It's better than nothing, but far from ideal because it can't take the unwanted additives out.

Additionally, ZDDP becomes more reactive the hotter it gets. One of the main reasons you run the engine at 2000 rpm for 20 minutes on initial startup is to put heat in the oil that you wouldn't get otherwise from just idling. I take it a step further and pre-heat the oil to at least 180°F before pouring it in the engine, priming it, and firing it for the first time. This also gets the oil thinned down a bit to help with flow on that initial startup.

[In-Tech]

Shoot, I need to pay better attention to the changes and do a bit of research. My go-to was always Wix and never Fram, booooo

[BILL-C]

The screen filter on a Clearview system is the pre-filter. Your canister filter of choice screws on the bottom side the billet housing. We observe what is caught in the 60 micron screen to determine if there is any issues during breakin. The screen will put on display way more debris particles than you will ever see by cutting open a paper element canister filter.

[fastvette]

So Napa filters were made by Wix. I guess they still are. I guess they are no good also. Napa filters is what I normally use for break in. Maybe I need to rethink that.

[EDC]

For racing...

[RDY4WAR]

I can't get onboard with not having a bypass valve. There is no benefit to deleting the bypass valve. It's a feel good thing. It's like people wanting to ban guns. It's a feel good measure that does nothing to solve any problems and potentially just makes them worse. The reduction in flow on cold startup is substantial, and oil flow at high rpm becomes sketchy. Those are about the only 2 times the bypass will realistically open, unless you're running an undersized filter, and both are critical to keeping oil moving. Oil flow is far more important than filtration. Filtering the oil is a secondary objective, never a primary one. Solid particles in the oil aren't a primary cause of engine wear. Overheating, vibrations, rust/corrosion, and loss of lubrication (such as a filter not letting oil through) are primary causes of wear. Wear particles contribute a very small amount to wear in typical saturation. It's not until you get into the 100+ ppm range do you start to see enough particle content to make a measurable difference in wear rates. Even NASCAR engines don't accumulate even 60 ppm of iron particle concentration in two 500 mile races. Most cross country diesels and commuter gas engines don't see 100+ ppm in 30k miles. An engine during break-in can see 100+ ppm due to the reasons I mentioned above which is all the more reason to have oil freely flowing and circulating.

Aside from the flow issues above, in many cases, deleting the bypass has the opposite of the intended effect and actually increases the number of particles that continue in circulation. With no bypass, pressure drop across the filter becomes higher. When the psid is higher, the oil begins forcing its way through the media however it can which causes filtration efficiency to take a nose dive. Contaminants, that otherwise could get captured by the filter, get forced right through it by the pressure building behind it.

If you insist on still deleting the bypass valve or running a filter without a bypass, run the largest filter you can, or run 2 filters in parallel, to reduce that pressure drop across the filter as much as possible. In fact, do that anyway.

[EDC]

I can't get onboard with not having a bypass valve. There is no benefit to deleting the bypass valve. It's a feel good thing. It's like people wanting to ban guns. It's a feel good measure that does nothing to solve any problems and potentially just makes them worse.

Terrible analogy but when you have the correct media, there is no issue.

The reduction in flow on cold startup is substantial, and oil flow at high rpm becomes sketchy.

Cold start up? These Joma filters are not for your daily driver or tow vehicle. As for high RPM usage, if you're on the bypass at high RPM, you have other issues.

Those are about the only 2 times the bypass will realistically open, unless you're running an undersized filter, and both are critical to keeping oil moving.

You just made the argument for this filter. The media type and amount are the key.

Oil flow is far more important than filtration.

Yes and have the "correct" type of media is the key. Unless you have the worst engine assembly practices known to man.

Filtering the oil is a secondary objective, never a primary one.

While it is true, contaminated oil is better than none, the design of the filter is important as much as using the correct filter media for the application.

Solid particles in the oil aren't a primary cause of engine wear.

The "size" of the particle is where the filter media comes into play. The large particulate can get trapped though they rarely cause the problem and the tiniest particulate can pass through but they really don't do any real damage.

Overheating, vibrations, rust/corrosion, and loss of lubrication (such as a filter not letting oil through) are primary causes of wear.ear particles contribute a very small amount to wear in typical saturation. It's not until you get into the 100+ ppm range do you start to see enough particle content to make a measurable difference in wear rates.

So, lack of attention to detail is the primary cause of wear. OKAY... proving my point.

Even NASCAR engines don't accumulate even 60 ppm of iron particle concentration in two 500 mile races. Most cross country diesels and commuter gas engines don't see 100+ ppm in 30k miles. An engine during break-in can see 100+ ppm due to the reasons I mentioned above which is all the more reason to have oil freely flowing and circulating.

Once again proving my point. Using a racing filter is not a good idea for a "break in".... Especially for those who do not understand cleanliness and attention to detail during assembly.

Aside from the flow issues above, in many cases, deleting the bypass has the opposite of the intended effect and actually increases the number of particles that continue in circulation.

Increases the number of particulate? If 100% of the lubricant runs through a filter media, how is this worse than an open bypass which allows ALL of the particulate to flow through the assembly?

With no bypass, pressure drop across the filter becomes higher. When the psid is higher, the oil begins forcing its way through the media however it can which causes filtration efficiency to take a nose dive. Contaminants, that otherwise could get captured by the filter, get forced right through it by the pressure building behind it.

I guess the type of media used escaped you?.

If you insist on still deleting the bypass valve or running a filter without a bypass, run the largest filter you can, or run 2 filters in parallel, to reduce that pressure drop across the filter as much as possible. In fact, do that anyway.

True but you can also use "more" media in the single to accomplish this.

[chimpvalet]

On the question of bypass pro or con I recall when an Oberg stainless screen filter split open after startup in moderately cold weather on a buddy's sports car. Dry sump system running Valvoline 20W-50 several decades ago, pressure must have spiked to a high figure though it was not revved much at all.

Cheers

[RDY4WAR]

I can't get onboard with not having a bypass valve. There is no benefit to deleting the bypass valve. It's a feel good thing. It's like people wanting to ban guns. It's a feel good measure that does nothing to solve any problems and potentially just makes them worse.

Terrible analogy but when you have the correct media, there is no issue.

It's based on misinformation that the oil must flow through the filter media every cycle.

The correct filter media, if prioritizing flow when no bypass is present, would be a double layered synthetic media to allow for depth filtration without restriction flow much and backed by steel wire to ensure the pleats don't collapse at high pressure. What's the media and backing in the Jomar filter?

The reduction in flow on cold startup is substantial, and oil flow at high rpm becomes sketchy.

Cold start up? These Joma filters are not for your daily driver or tow vehicle. As for high RPM usage, if you're on the bypass at high RPM, you have other issues.

In terms of cold, we're talking relative. 100°F is "cold" for an engine. A 20W-50 oil is ~180 cSt at 100°F. For reference, maple syrup is 140-160 cSt. Now imagine trying to force maple syrup through a filter media at 8+ gpm flow rate at 7000+ rpm. It's not going to do it. Now imagine a cool 50°F day in March or November when you first startup at the track. A 20W-50 oil at 50°F is 400-600 cSt or about the equivalent of pine tar/resin. Imagine forcing that through a filter.

Those are about the only 2 times the bypass will realistically open, unless you're running an undersized filter, and both are critical to keeping oil moving.

You just made the argument for this filter. The media type and amount are the key.

How did I make your argument? What's the media type?

Filtering the oil is a secondary objective, never a primary one.

While it is true, contaminated oil is better than none, the design of the filter is important as much as using the correct filter media for the application.

Even the best flowing media will still have bypass events, especially if we're talking about a 50 grade molasses, just less frequent. You can minimize the pressure differential, but can't get rid of it entirely.

Solid particles in the oil aren't a primary cause of engine wear.

The "size" of the particle is where the filter media comes into play. The large particulate can get trapped though they rarely cause the problem and the tiniest particulate can pass through but they really don't do any real damage.

What's ISO 4548-12 filtration efficiency of the Jomar filters at 20 um?

Overheating, vibrations, rust/corrosion, and loss of lubrication (such as a filter not letting oil through) are primary causes of wear.ear particles contribute a very small amount to wear in typical saturation. It's not until you get into the 100+ ppm range do you start to see enough particle content to make a measurable difference in wear rates.

So, lack of attention to detail is the primary cause of wear. OKAY... proving my point.

Deleting the bypass is an example of lack of attention to detail.

Even NASCAR engines don't accumulate even 60 ppm of iron particle concentration in two 500 mile races. Most cross country diesels and commuter gas engines don't see 100+ ppm in 30k miles. An engine during break-in can see 100+ ppm due to the reasons I mentioned above which is all the more reason to have oil freely flowing and circulating.

Once again proving my point. Using a racing filter is not a good idea for a "break in".... Especially for those who do not understand cleanliness and attention to detail during assembly.

What point? You're trying to say a bypass is not necessary when the entire SAE and STLE disagrees with you.

Aside from the flow issues above, in many cases, deleting the bypass has the opposite of the intended effect and actually increases the number of particles that continue in circulation.

Increases the number of particulate? If 100% of the lubricant runs through a filter media, how is this worse than an open bypass which allows ALL of the particulate to flow through the assembly?

With no bypass, pressure drop across the filter becomes higher. When the psid is higher, the oil begins forcing its way through the media however it can which causes filtration efficiency to take a nose dive. Contaminants, that otherwise could get captured by the filter, get forced right through it by the pressure building behind it.

I guess the type of media used escaped you?.

Again, a good flowing media, like I described at the beginning of the comment, can reduce the psid but cannot get rid of it entirely. There will still be pressure spikes. When pressure drop across a media (any media) increases, the efficiency decreases. That's true for any filter.

The bypass valve does not send all of the oil around the filter. Only 10-20% of the oil flows through the bypass, just enough to ensure oil is flowing and maintain the max pressure drop across the media. The majority of the oil is still flowing through the media. Say you have a bypass valve with a 12 psid spring. When the pressure on the inlet side of the filter exceeds 12 psi higher than the pressure on the outlet, the valve opens to bring that drop back below 12 psid. Once it falls below 12, the valve closes. The inlet pressure could be 80 psi with 70 psi in the outlet and the valve will be closed. If the outlet pressure falls to 68 psi or lower, the valve opens and maintains about that pressure.

Also, the oil was flowing 100% through the media when the engine was shut off last. How dirty do you think the oil is on the next startup?

If you insist on still deleting the bypass valve or running a filter without a bypass, run the largest filter you can, or run 2 filters in parallel, to reduce that pressure drop across the filter as much as possible. In fact, do that anyway.

True but you can also use "more" media in the single to accomplish this.

Yes, and a bigger can can fit even more media.

[Tom68]

On the question of bypass pro or con I recall when an Oberg stainless screen filter split open after startup in moderately cold weather on a buddy's sports car. Dry sump system running Valvoline 20W-50 several decades ago, pressure must have spiked to a high figure though it was not revved much at all.

Cheers

We blew several oberg screens back in the day, bypass port welded shut, blow engine, block filter with trash, 4 stage return pumps straight through the woven stainless mesh.

[Tom68]

Shoot, I need to pay better attention to the changes and do a bit of research. My go-to was always Wix and never Fram, booooo

We're fortunate to have RYCO filters here (OZ) made in various countries, but amongst the best filter construction of all the brands I've cut up.

[bob460]

Shoot, I need to pay better attention to the changes and do a bit of research. My go-to was always Wix and never Fram, booooo

We're fortunate to have RYCO filters here (OZ) made in various countries, but amongst the best filter construction of all the brands I've cut up.

Tom do you know why the new black ryco filters are better than the white one's.

[chimpvalet]

On the question of bypass pro or con I recall when an Oberg stainless screen filter split open after startup in moderately cold weather on a buddy's sports car. Dry sump system running Valvoline 20W-50 several decades ago, pressure must have spiked to a high figure though it was not revved much at all.

Cheers

We blew several oberg screens back in the day, bypass port welded shut, blow engine, block filter with trash, 4 stage return pumps straight through the woven stainless mesh.

In fact the Oberg casing split, rather than the screen fail. Quite an eye opener.