My daughter races a 1983 Dodge Charger in a junior division of Kid"s Club racing. At presnt I have negitive camber on the right front (Passenger'side. Should I have the same on the driver's side or should this be O or positive camber for better handeling? Should the toe measurement be smaller in the front or rear of the tire? Does it make a difference which adjustment is made first.
Thank you for yor response.[/b]
Camber and Toe Adjustment
Moderator: Team
I can only answer your question in generalities since I'm not familiar with that type of chassis or the layout of the track being raced on. Bi-directional racing would seem to dictate the camber should be the same on both front wheels. The amount of camber would depend on several things including caster settings, componet deflection and sidewall rollover. In most applications toe is smaller at the front and it is set after caster and camber is adjusted. Hope this helps and I'm not giving you answers to things you already knew.
I wondered about it still being a FWD car. My experience on FWD cars is ZERO so take my advice with the proverbial grain of salt. In my opinion you are ok using negative camber on the right side, the amount would depend on the varables I listed before. On the left side I'd run some positive camber. If the car is trying to torque steer try putting in a little more caster on the left side. Just wondering about the trailer tires, do they seem to work?
Driver side leaned out and passenger side leaned in.
But to get any appreciateable amount of camber in a front wheel drive chassis you have to notch the strut tower drastically just to get a few degrees.
There is also sources to get offset ball joints and slugs that you can use to offset the spindle to get the same results.
Think of it like a old road grader - when it wants to turn the wheels lean in the direction that you steer it. That is what makes the car turn.
Once you correct that problem - I would get someone to check the Ackerman on your chassis - there are gains in Ackerman that would benifit you more than caster.
But to get any appreciateable amount of camber in a front wheel drive chassis you have to notch the strut tower drastically just to get a few degrees.
There is also sources to get offset ball joints and slugs that you can use to offset the spindle to get the same results.
Think of it like a old road grader - when it wants to turn the wheels lean in the direction that you steer it. That is what makes the car turn.
Once you correct that problem - I would get someone to check the Ackerman on your chassis - there are gains in Ackerman that would benifit you more than caster.