Shocks, Springs, Brakes, Frame, Body Work, etc
7 posts • Page 1 of 1
I’ve used them on our dirt midget, lightweight they brake decent when the coating wears off it’s either get them recoated or replace them-$$$, take a specific compound pad as well which are also a touch high. We use thin solid rotor and the weight is amazing. Not sure if you’re looking at vented ones with a hat etc. red devil are the ones we use.
A buddy collaborating on custom upgrade for a rather light street sportscar brought this to my attention today. What's in view are 12" solid rotors for hat mounting, curb weight of the cars about 2200 lb. I'm skeptical as to the suitability for this but gotta keep an open mind where technology leads us.
With titanium rotors you either need to have them coated or use specific pad compounds. Being that they don’t dissipate the heat away it has a big impact on how it affects the pads.
"It's a fine line between clever and stupid." David St. Hubbins
Yes, you are correct about that they operate at a higher temp, and pads/fluids selected need to be up to the task, but pads are cheaper then the rotor, and the weight savings is significant over iron, and with higher temp delta, cooling ducts are that much more effective. Basically same as CF rotors but 1/3? the cost and 1/3? more weight, dead, unsprung, and rotational?
I suspect you can by Al. Sic. ceramic plate and water-jet to size. Buy current, on the market ceramic rotors ? Sprint cars have used aluminum rear rotor, for years. Not for road racing ! I'm building an 800 lb. reverse trike,(3 seater). It's using 14.5" x .37" thk. alum. rotors in front. (1) 15" in back. All bolted to wheels at outside dia.,( calipers on inside diameter, like Buell/etc). Wilwood pads and hardware. Make inside, 2 piston calipers.
Good Luck, Art.
Good Luck, Art.