Dart SHP block questions

[Lizardracing]

Lost a engine recently in my Dirt Modified. The number 7 connecting rod is likely orbiting around the sun at this point. It was a stock block 406. 13:1 CR, Dart 23’ 230 heads, Jones cam...etc. I haven’t yet picked through the remains and determined what’s left to reuse if anything at all.
On my search for a new one I came across a good deal on a new in the box SHP Dart block locally for $1000.
It has the 4.000 bore and 350 mains.
I understand that these blocks still need work done to be usable? What typically needs done? Am I money ahead here going to something like a 4.000x3.75ci?

[Racer18]

You will need to clean it, we deburr everything, will need decked to your desired height, Hone cylinders to size, hone lifter bores to size, and any clearance work for rods. $1000.00 is a good deal, and they are very superior to stock GM blocks.

[cgarb]

Why not run the 4.125x3.75"? The Shp block can accept up to 4.165 bore I believe and some have gone more. The block is not finished bored anyway, Same cost to bore and hone, unless they would charge you more to cut out the extra material. If you don't want to open the bore up, I would at least do the 4.oo or 4.030 bore x 3.875 stroke.

[novafornow]

I am with these guys, don't give up the cubes. Add to the list that the pipe plugs all seem to need to be tapped deeper. $1,000 is a good price. Check with your machine shop to see if they charge Xtra for the material removal. Many cranks available to suit your needs/rules.

[needforspeed66gt]

I use them all the time for 400" Chev and 427" Ford builds - the added bore size will help your heads breathe.

As for what is needed out of the box, the main caps are horribly machined and I always grind them flat and line hone the block with ARP hardware.

The cam bearing bores are not chamfered, so I get in there with a grinder and add in a taper like an OE block so you can get the cam bearings in easily. Also along those lines, the blocks are not machined with an annulus in the cam housing bores, so instead of using Dart's three hole bearings(too much bleed off), I'll get a single hole set and then cut them in the lathe so you can clock them to the optimal 2-3 o'clock instead of at 6.

The decks are not flat and need to be skim cut at minimum.

Chamfer the freeze plug holes.

The lifter bores I'll give a kiss hone as they're usually on size and not delivered tight like the more race oriented blocks.

[tenxal]

The SHP's are a great block for the money. Even more so for that price. When I got mine, there was a tech sheet included that stressed that the lifter bores must be honed to size. Other than that, standard block prep., the main caps/bores were dead on. I did use the DuraBond cam bearings.

[Lizardracing]

Are they all 1 piece rear main seal?

[leahymtsps]

Are they all 1 piece rear main seal?

No

Tom

[racinnut15xm]

I believe the only draw back of your deal is if you want to bore it to 4.125. The 4in vs the 4.125 blocks, the wall thickness is different so you cant just punch it out to the 4.125 and be where you would if you ordered the 4.125 block.

I'm sure the others will correct me if I've misspoken on that.

[lance flake]

I believe the only draw back of your deal is if you want to bore it to 4.125. The 4in vs the 4.125 blocks, the wall thickness is different so you cant just punch it out to the 4.125 and be where you would if you ordered the 4.125 block.

I'm sure the others will correct me if I've misspoken on that.

They are the same casting. You can bore them the same amount

[racinnut15xm]

I believe the only draw back of your deal is if you want to bore it to 4.125. The 4in vs the 4.125 blocks, the wall thickness is different so you cant just punch it out to the 4.125 and be where you would if you ordered the 4.125 block.

I'm sure the others will correct me if I've misspoken on that.

They are the same casting. You can bore them the same amount

Maybe its the brodix steel block I'm thinking about.

[Lizardracing]

I’ll pass on this one. Mostly because it’s a 1 piece seal.
I really need a 4.125 and 400 mains 2 piece seal.
I think I can save the crank which is currently a 3.75 stroke and 400 mains.
This block would mean I’d havta change too many things to make it work.
I’d pass along the contact info for anyone who would want it. Just PM me here.
This engine broke something and chucked a rod out. I was able to reach into the newly made hole and pull out the piston. The big end is still attached to the crank and appears intact with bolts still in it.
So far I’m only missing the small end and the pin and half of one spring lock. If someone happens to see it laying somewhere I’d like to have it back. Lol.