Stuck headstuds in aluminum block

[n2xlr8n]

I learned the acetone+ATF trick here a while back and it's never failed me. Occasionally I'll add heat with it.

Now I have to remember the 300A welding lead trick.

[rebelyell]

If you get scared with heat and beat, there's always alum, warmth, and time...

https://hackaday.com/2015/08/03/dissolv ... e-grocery/

https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/g ... um-158766/

Alum !

For millennia, females have used alum to shrink the volumetric profiles of their "Lady Bits" ... so, once done with the steel ???

https://serrestick.com/blogs/news/let-s ... nal-health

[Joe-71]

Sometimes with aluminum, you need to tighten the stud first. Double nut, torque +10 lb, and then try to remove. Seems to be a case of not installing the stud hand tight and then back out 1/4 turn. Joe-JDC

[Momus]

Firmly connect a ~300amp arc welder's leads to block and stud respectively, switch on for 10s then check leads, clamps, and stud temperatures

Try tightening then loosening the stud - - repeat 10s applications if the stud doesn't move and heat isn't excessive

The more corrosion around the thread the greater the resistance and the hotter that area becomes

An old time ZA mechanic swore this method was the only cure for Alfa 4cyl engines run without antifreeze

Head studs on those all ali engines pass through a common coolant jacket and into the block

And I always thought those diabolical Alfa studs were cast in.

[Caprimaniac]

Got this SBF alu Block. 1/2" studs won't come out. Outer studs, maybe water seeped in, or? Middle Three worst.

Tried two nuts counterbound, no Luck. Going to try heat. Any other suggestions?

Mayby just leaving the studs alone would be the best decision, once you fu%k it up you have alot bigger problem , JMO

Certainly agree.... But; the Block is to be bored, and I figure the studs gotta go? OR?

In for a plate hone, and then they need to go on...

I'll grab a can of acetone & head for the shop tomorrow. Will see how much damage I'll manage to do.

Happy motoring!

[Baprace]

Got this SBF alu Block. 1/2" studs won't come out. Outer studs, maybe water seeped in, or? Middle Three worst.

Tried two nuts counterbound, no Luck. Going to try heat. Any other suggestions?

Mayby just leaving the studs alone would be the best decision, once you fu%k it up you have alot bigger problem , JMO

Certainly agree.... But; the Block is to be bored, and I figure the studs gotta go? OR?

In for a plate hone, and then they need to go on...

I'll grab a can of acetone & head for the shop tomorrow. Will see how much damage I'll manage to do.

Happy motoring!

Capri , any one have a Sunnen CK-10 hone machine near you ? That machine will hone .030 faster than you can bore it and the studs should not be a problem.

[Caprimaniac]

The shop has a Sunnen, not sure what model, though.

One stubborn sucker left....

All came out good, no threads gone, which is great.

However: holes are blind. And there has been water there...

I have always been sceptical about this: In alu block the sleeves stand proud, how much? 0,05mm?, and what happens in a cold engine: will the gaskets really seal up so water and oil stay where they should be? I don’t know...
Maybe small beads of silicone around the water holes?

[Kevin Johnson]

The shop has a Sunnen, not sure what model, though.

One stubborn sucker left....

All came out good, no threads gone, which is great.

However: holes are blind. And there has been water there...

I have always been sceptical about this: In alu block the sleeves stand proud, how much? 0,05mm?, and what happens in a cold engine: will the gaskets really seal up so water and oil stay where they should be? I don’t know...
Maybe small beads of silicone around the water holes?

If you need them, I can look up the liner protrusion specs for the Renault alloy blocks with iron wet liners. They later switched to an o-ring seal.

[tenxal]

All came out good, no threads gone, which is great. However: holes are blind. And there has been water there...

Make sure there is a decent chamfer around the stud.

[shoedoos]

for future reference the "old" melted candle wax down the threads works effectively as well....