F-BIRD'88 wrote: ↑Thu Aug 27, 2020 7:17 pm
This is not true... If you primarily street drive your car VS drag race it you are better off with plenum heat in the long run. Can' determine if you are wasting your time. Seems you suspect that.
Been doing it since 1980, and not one time have I had to fatten up the idle with a cold air intake. In fact, the opposite is true. You take fuel AWAY. I’m getting ready to fire a 12:1 pump gas tunnel ram engine on Saturday. The tune up I put in the carbs is significantly leaner than what came in the carbs, which is 2 Quick Fuel Brawler 750’s.
It will run in sub freezing weather, and do it very well.
BradH wrote: ↑Wed Aug 26, 2020 11:48 pm Holley sells their factory refurb 80496s for about $550 if they are still available.
Just checked out of curiosity, but Holley's web site says none currently available. Too bad, cuz the "regular" price for a new 80496 is... uhhhh... pretty freakin' high, IMO.
BradH wrote: ↑Wed Aug 26, 2020 11:48 pm Holley sells their factory refurb 80496s for about $550 if they are still available.
Just checked out of curiosity, but Holley's web site says none currently available. Too bad, cuz the "regular" price for a new 80496 is... uhhhh... pretty freakin' high, IMO.
I hear ya. I checked after you suggested that the other day.
I guess I’ll take the weight reduction of the brawler type carb........ and save the $278 that goes along with it.
Since the shift in manufacturing has moved from the zinc castings to aluminum bodies and bowls, along with billet metering blocks and baseplates....... if the quality of the zinc parts are as good ever.
Plus...... no worries about “zinc pest” happening with the aluminum stuff.
Edit-I just did a google search for “zinc pest”, which used to have tons of images pop up of Holley carbs that had severe cases of it. Now....... you get nothing but model train pics.
So much for things being on the ‘net forever.
PRH wrote: ↑Fri Aug 28, 2020 11:29 am
I guess I’ll take the weight reduction of the brawler type carb........ and save the $278 that goes along with it.
Since the shift in manufacturing has moved from the zinc castings to aluminum bodies and bowls, along with billet metering blocks and baseplates....... if the quality of the zinc parts are as good ever.
Plus...... no worries about “zinc pest” happening with the aluminum stuff.
Edit-I just did a google search for “zinc pest”, which used to have tons of images pop up of Holley carbs that had severe cases of it. Now....... you get nothing but model train pics.
So much for things being on the ‘net forever.
I’m stuck on a dichromate finish and old school appearance.
I did have an ethanol / zinc ordeal on a marine carb, years ago. Now, I dry the carbs and bring them in the basement for off season storage.
My car is a “day 2” type muscle car. Check out how I removed the “Holley” off the SD
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F-BIRD'88 wrote: ↑Thu Aug 27, 2020 4:59 pm
You have tune the idle circuit richer and the primary jet richer when running a cold manifold... Fuel vapourization requires HEAT INPUT.. You get BETTER vapourization around town with a little added plenum heat.
Thats why every OEM uses intake plenum heat.
The exhaust is cleaner. The plugs last longer. You get better fuel mileage. And don't stink up the air with unburned hydrocarbons. The engine will last longer too.
The OEMS know about street tuning better than you do.
Try it.
What if he wanted to run a tunnel ram? How would someone get good street tunability with that? How do you heat that intake.
Good point.. For street driving with a tunnel ram it wood be great if the plenum was heated to aid fuel vapourization.
(electric, hot water, hot exhaust heat duct) Current cast tunnel rams are made for racing but adding retro fitting for (controlled) manifold plenum heat will really work great on any street use tunnel ram induction car. Only needs creative engineering and some plumbing too employ that on your tunnel ram.. There are a few ways to skin that cat.
Here is what Chrysler did on the ram manifolds of the day to heat the carb plenums. https://www.macsmotorcitygarage.com/wp- ... 36x300.jpg
Last edited by F-BIRD'88 on Fri Aug 28, 2020 1:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I’m stuck on a dichromate finish and old school appearance.
I did have an ethanol / zinc ordeal on a marine carb, years ago. Now, I dry the carbs and bring them in the basement for off season storage.
My car is a “day 2” type muscle car. Check out how I removed the “Holley” off the SD
[/quote]
F-BIRD'88 wrote: ↑Thu Aug 27, 2020 4:59 pm
You have tune the idle circuit richer and the primary jet richer when running a cold manifold... Fuel vapourization requires HEAT INPUT.. You get BETTER vapourization around town with a little added plenum heat.
Thats why every OEM uses intake plenum heat.
The exhaust is cleaner. The plugs last longer. You get better fuel mileage. And don't stink up the air with unburned hydrocarbons. The engine will last longer too.
The OEMS know about street tuning better than you do.
Try it.
What if he wanted to run a tunnel ram? How would someone get good street tunability with that? How do you heat that intake.
You'll be the first to know when I perfect the bolt-on electric/steam powered under carb, heated spacer plates.
Unless you do it first
BradH wrote: ↑Fri Aug 28, 2020 2:23 pm
So, you guys are saying that I can grind the "Trick Flow" logo off my intake and everyone will think my engine is stock?
