Hi, a customer many hundreds miles ago decided to move further away under the car the crank vapours breather, using a very small and long rubber hose that got immediately blocked.
After some time he took the car to me because it was missfiring and knocking.
Long story short, I discovered his mods to the brether and restored its functionality, but was still getting some knocks that i suspect they came from dirty stuck and clogged rings.
Some thinner through the plugs holes did make the knock to disappear, but is there any better liquid/method to restore full rings job without opening the engine?
Thanks
Blowby issue
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Re: Blowby issue
The first and simplest and cheapest thing I would try is to replace one Qt of oil with a non synthetic automatic trans fluid and then put 50 miles on the car while trying to keep the rpm's somewhat above 2000.
If that seems to work out then change the oil and the filter plus add a can of engine restore additive .
It's sold in 4,6 and 8 cylinder size cans.
If that seems to work out then change the oil and the filter plus add a can of engine restore additive .
It's sold in 4,6 and 8 cylinder size cans.
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Re: Blowby issue
No, you're guessing at what's going on, so he had an oil burner and modified the breather ??? It's still an oil burner.Matt80 wrote: ↑Mon Mar 06, 2023 4:50 am Hi, a customer many hundreds miles ago decided to move further away under the car the crank vapours breather, using a very small and long rubber hose that got immediately blocked.
After some time he took the car to me because it was missfiring and knocking.
Long story short, I discovered his mods to the brether and restored its functionality, but was still getting some knocks that i suspect they came from dirty stuck and clogged rings.
Some thinner through the plugs holes did make the knock to disappear, but is there any better liquid/method to restore full rings job without opening the engine?
Thanks
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Re: Blowby issue
Take it apart and find out WHY it's got a lot of blow by....because that's a ring seal issue, and if it's bad enough to plug a hose, the issue is pretty serious....
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Re: Blowby issue
My standard diagnosis is to do a cranking compression check, and cylinder leak down, you must first identify the ability of the engine to compress air, and contain compression, before trying anything else. I have a customer who a couple times has brought me an engine and it is not running right, it is always I think it is the carbs, and it never is. Last time I got out my cylinder leak tester he commented, now it is going to cost me a lot of money.
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Re: Blowby issue
Best method to clean the combustion chamber is to drizzle a urine-stream of water down the primary carb venturis, or the throttle body, with the engine fully warmed-up and running at ~2000 rpm. If the engine begins to misfire, reduce the amount of water until it recovers. This steam-cleans the piston top and cylinder head/valve heads. I use a gallon of water. Probably need to change oil afterwards, to remove moisture from blow-by.
For freeing stuck rings, I use GM Top Engine Cleaner (TEC).
https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-10-3015- ... Q8FVX324VA
(Prices vary, shop around.)
Warm up engine, remove spark plugs, dump about four ounces of TEC through each of the plug holes. Screw the plugs back in loosely. Crank engine by hand two revolutions. Let it sit overnight. Remove plugs, crank engine with starter, install plugs and run the engine. It'll smoke like mad--make sure the neighbors don't call the fire department on you. Repeat if needed. Again--do this before an oil change so the solvented gunk on the rings, and the TEC residue that trickles past the rings, is removed from the engine.
Yes, compression test, leakdown test, videoscope down the plug hole to visually confirm no cylinder scoring, are all worthwhile diagnostic procedures.
For freeing stuck rings, I use GM Top Engine Cleaner (TEC).
https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-10-3015- ... Q8FVX324VA
(Prices vary, shop around.)
Warm up engine, remove spark plugs, dump about four ounces of TEC through each of the plug holes. Screw the plugs back in loosely. Crank engine by hand two revolutions. Let it sit overnight. Remove plugs, crank engine with starter, install plugs and run the engine. It'll smoke like mad--make sure the neighbors don't call the fire department on you. Repeat if needed. Again--do this before an oil change so the solvented gunk on the rings, and the TEC residue that trickles past the rings, is removed from the engine.
Yes, compression test, leakdown test, videoscope down the plug hole to visually confirm no cylinder scoring, are all worthwhile diagnostic procedures.
Re: Blowby issue
Coloradoracer wrote: ↑Mon Mar 13, 2023 6:25 am Take it apart and find out WHY it's got a lot of blow by....because that's a ring seal issue, and if it's bad enough to plug a hose, the issue is pretty serious....
I already did leak down and compression tests, that's why I pointed over blocked rings due to oil vapours going through rings and not to atmo.rebelrouser wrote: ↑Mon Mar 13, 2023 8:52 am My standard diagnosis is to do a cranking compression check, and cylinder leak down, you must first identify the ability of the engine to compress air, and contain compression, before trying anything else. I have a customer who a couple times has brought me an engine and it is not running right, it is always I think it is the carbs, and it never is. Last time I got out my cylinder leak tester he commented, now it is going to cost me a lot of money.
Crank case gasses are a mixture mainly of water with some oil and fuel that's going to product a "cream" that will likely block ANY small and horizontal long hose under the car.
And that's exactly what happened.
How I know?
Because detonation reduced a lot after making the oil vapours to atmo working again,
and because detonation DISAPPEARED as soon as I filled the cyls with any sort of fluid and acid I got around to clean the rings' lands.
So back to my question, is there any magic liquid that has the exact purpose of perfectly cleaning ring lands from cooked oil?
Thanks
Re: Blowby issue
Thanks, will buy it !Schurkey wrote: ↑Tue Mar 14, 2023 5:26 pm Best method to clean the combustion chamber is to drizzle a urine-stream of water down the primary carb venturis, or the throttle body, with the engine fully warmed-up and running at ~2000 rpm. If the engine begins to misfire, reduce the amount of water until it recovers. This steam-cleans the piston top and cylinder head/valve heads. I use a gallon of water. Probably need to change oil afterwards, to remove moisture from blow-by.
For freeing stuck rings, I use GM Top Engine Cleaner (TEC).
https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-10-3015- ... Q8FVX324VA
(Prices vary, shop around.)
Warm up engine, remove spark plugs, dump about four ounces of TEC through each of the plug holes. Screw the plugs back in loosely. Crank engine by hand two revolutions. Let it sit overnight. Remove plugs, crank engine with starter, install plugs and run the engine. It'll smoke like mad--make sure the neighbors don't call the fire department on you. Repeat if needed. Again--do this before an oil change so the solvented gunk on the rings, and the TEC residue that trickles past the rings, is removed from the engine.
Yes, compression test, leakdown test, videoscope down the plug hole to visually confirm no cylinder scoring, are all worthwhile diagnostic procedures.