I beam versus H beam rods
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I beam versus H beam rods
I'm having a 383 built that will put out somewhere around 525hp and was wondering which rods to use either Scat I beam 2icr with the 7/16" capscrews or should I go with Scat H beam rods for this power level. Thanks
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Another plus is that rod will have a ton of cam clearance, way more than even a stock 400 rod
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Re: Rods
Hey there Joebigjoe1 wrote:I always use the I beam rods in everything I build, In high HP engines, I use the 7/16 bolts. That works out very well.
JOE SHERMAN RACING ENGINES
What brand of I beam rods do you prefer ?
Just curious
John
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For N/A engines there is a weight advantage using I-Beam rods. H-Beam are good for high compressive (buckling) loading i.e turbo or supercharged engines. Can't pull as much weight out of them though.
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I beam rods
I do use the SCAT I beams rods about 90 percent of the time. They are made to clear the camshaft better than any of the others out there. I do still grind the rod where the threads of the bolt come through on long strokesThe machine work they do on the rod saves lots of time when you go to assemble the engine. I have only had ONE failure and that waas with a 3/8 bolt iinstead of the 7/16 bolts.
JOE SHERMAN RACING ENGINES
JOE SHERMAN RACING ENGINES
Maybe some will chime in as to what forces and at what direction is it that brakes the rod.
I had the privilege of spending some time with Jack Sparks @ Carrillo and we had this same discussion. It seems inclusions in the metal cause growth or collapse upsetting the symmetry of the rod, that misaligns the crank axis with the wrist pin axis and starts a failure in work.
IMHO a rod body should be a hollow tube still giving the compression and tinsel strength but adding torsional strength for the same weight rod.
I would like to know what the Pros think
I had the privilege of spending some time with Jack Sparks @ Carrillo and we had this same discussion. It seems inclusions in the metal cause growth or collapse upsetting the symmetry of the rod, that misaligns the crank axis with the wrist pin axis and starts a failure in work.
IMHO a rod body should be a hollow tube still giving the compression and tinsel strength but adding torsional strength for the same weight rod.
I would like to know what the Pros think
Thundair