Stainless valves for street/strip SBC

[Superkonr57]

I'm going through a set of 041 SBC heads to go on a somewhat mild street engine for my 57. I'm thinking I should upgrade the stock valves. Engine has a Howards hydraulic roller cam, .510/.530 lift. Won't see more than around 6k, maybe 6500 rpm. Spring pressures are 120lb on the seat and a little under 350lbs max. Single springs with dampers. I'm looking at 1pc stainless valves and don't want to go too cheap and have it drop a valve but I also don't want to spend $500 on 1.94/1.50 valves. I'll spend that money when I do a set of 2.02s. So what is a good budget valve that would maybe run me around $200 and not break in a 6500 rpm hydraulic roller street engine?
I'm looking at Competition Products severe duty house brand valves, they are $14 a piece but can't find many reviews on them. Seems like Manley is questionable quality unless you buy the $35/ea. Severe duty valves. Anyone use these CP valves before? Or what's your recommendation? I know I should just get the good stuff and be done but I don't need to go down the "while I'm at it" rabbit hole on this particular engine LOL. Thanks guys

[mt-engines]

Even stock replacements will be fine.

The competition products valves are good.. have run a bunch.

You're overthinking it.. spend your money on good locks

[Superkonr57]

Even stock replacements will be fine.

The competition products valves are good.. have run a bunch.

You're overthinking it.. spend your money on good locks

Thank you! I've got the Howards retainer kit with 10 degree locks.

[Retro 5.0]

Most of the stainless valves come from Argentina. Even Ferrea offers some from there. Engine pro stainless valves are also made there. I've used the engine pro valves quite a few times over the years. Good budget valve for the money.

[BOOT]

I wouldn't worry but I'd also use modern heads LOL

The stronger HD valves will just be heavier and unless you plan to run laps at high rpm with prolonged heat. You don't really need them. Someone once mentioned how stock valves are actually stronger than SS but it's the heat or something that SS handles better(I forget n don't really care since 99% of stuff is SS). I'd just go with the lighter valves n call it good, bought like 5 sets of 1.94 to compare last winter. I'll put the heavy manley in some heads that I'm gonna sell cause it'll make whoever happier, than the lessor name know brand that are lighter LOL

[Superkonr57]

Thanks guys. This engine will be running down the highway at 3500 rpm for long hours when I'm not screwing around on the street so I will probably try out the Competition Products severe application valves. I'd like to be able to put this engine together and not have to pull it back out of the car for 100k highway miles, just want a fairly mild but solid setup.

[rfoll]

I have used several sets from Competition products with no problems.

[PackardV8]

Just asking, as we use a lot of them in Studebaker V8s, but why don't all aftermarket SBC heads come with 8mm stem LS-style valves? And if they're street heads, why not with beehive springs? When we went from 11/32" stems and straight springs to the LS parts, I usually picked up 500 RPM on the same cam and seat pressure.

[BOOT]

Just asking, as we use a lot of them in Studebaker V8s, but why don't all aftermarket SBC heads come with 8mm stem LS-style valves? And if they're street heads, why not with beehive springs? When we went from 11/32" stems and straight springs to the LS parts, I usually picked up 500 RPM on the same cam and seat pressure.

What sells/cost is all that counts. Many still don't trust small stems or beehives. Plus the cost to upgrade is more than Z28 springs I mean if they wouldn't rake old V8 guys over the coals for each little upgrade. Why are LS roller cams so much cheaper?

edit: All i got is beehive springs & retainers. The heads I wanna sell, won't have any springs or I gotta buy normal spring sets, otherwise they wouldn't sell.