Engine Longevity Tips

[crock]

If we start with a high performance hot rod street engine using conventional materials, what can be done to increase the longevity of the engine? I am trying to get some tips that can help performance street builds that normally last 10,000-30,000 miles go 100,000 miles between rebuilds.

[Bob Hollinshead]

overdrive

[panic]

No short trips
Frequent oil change
High temp thermostat
Block heater - no cold starts
Minimal prolonged cranking

[CAMHOG]

Anti Fiction Coatings and the best possible Ring Seal are two important things. But why reinvent the wheel, look at the highest output per liter Motorcycle and Supercars. They have big budgets and have done the r&d.
That's my 2 cents
Good Luck

[David Redszus]

Change all fluids and filters regularly.
Be sure ignition timing is not over-advanced; pre-ignition is a silent engine killer.
Use premium motor oil and gasoline; detergent packages keep engine insides clean.
Warm up the engine before standing on the throttle hard.
Do not allow A/F to drift into the excessively rich zone.
Check for fluid leakages, often.

[Matt Gruber]

If we start with a high performance hot rod street engine using conventional materials, what can be done to increase the longevity of the engine? I am trying to get some tips that can help performance street builds that normally last 10,000-30,000 miles go 100,000 miles between rebuilds.

What fails?

[Barbapapa]

Keep the stroke low enough that the piston doesn't poke out the bottom of the cylinder plus tight piston to bore clearances, that allows lower drag rings to work which will wear the bore less.

Avoid low idle speeds for the valve train.

[Orr89rocz]

Keep the stroke low enough that the piston doesn't poke out the bottom of the cylinder plus tight piston to bore clearances, that allows lower drag rings to work which will wear the bore less.

Avoid low idle speeds for the valve train.

How about oil spray bar in the valve covers.


My old L98 89 camaro went 160k miles before being pulled for a 383 build. Motor still ran like a beast, high 12's on bolt ons only. For that high mileage it certainly wasnt losing power. Frequent oil changes and warmed up before hard driving

[Barbapapa]

How about oil spray bar in the valve covers.

I was thinking more for the cam and lifters. Low speeds are hard on the cam nose and lifters (flat or roller).

[nascarfan7]

Going from 10,000-30,000 to 100,000 mile rebuilds is going to take alot more than clean fluids/filters, lash adjustments and driving style. What is failing? Need more details on engine specs and driving conditions. I'm assuming re-freshes in that 100,000 miles? (check bearings, springs, maybe a lifter rebuild?)

Your version of a high performance street engine is a big factor.

[Dan Timberlake]

" Need more details on engine specs and driving conditions. I'm assuming re-freshes in that 100,000 miles? (check bearings, springs, maybe a lifter rebuild?)"

X2

what needs replacing at 30,000 miles?

[crock]

The problems I see are typically valve seats, cam/lifter wear, piston ringland gap, and main bearing wear. Tbis does not include problems caused by overheating, which is the number one cause of early engine death.

[wyrmrider]

Industrial Hard chrome stem valves (not flash chrome) premium valve guides, seats and seals (viton), hard tips or lash caps Inconel exhausts valves or Sodium cooled exhausts
ductile moly or chrome rings with proper bore finish
tight pistons with 0-x oil Synthetic
lower expansion pistons Hypers or BVVC if forged
point about not out of the bottom of the cylinder skirts suggests long rods and tall block and long rods if stroker
easy on the parts hyd roller cam grind- dual springs (of correct spec) or beehives
longer valves with taller springs, bigger springs (longer wire length twists fewer degrees)
hard chrome shafts and bronze bushings if shaft rockers
verify oil the adjusters, shafts, tips
1/2 grove mains with x-drill or better crank oil mods
piston squirters if higher compression, blown
premium timing chain with an oil squirter, also on dist gear PRN
squirter on the crank thrust (bevel the bearing parting line or better
coolant
brass plugs
modern combustion chamber for lower timing, better flame propagation, ping resistant with pistons to match
extra tight quench
oil cooler if heat is a problem, remote filters
rev kit if solid roller

[crock]

Why brass plugs?

[Barbapapa]

Tbis does not include problems caused by overheating, which is the number one cause of early engine death.

IMO, nearly all problems of overheating are because of poor coolant system design and resulting air pockets etc.
Big radiators and cooling fans are usually thought of as the fix when the real reasons are not addressed out of ignorance.

I tried to get a discussion going here about coolant system design and got zero interest. Even most gearheads simply don't understand the importance of design and don't plan on anything beyond a big radiator and maybe a strong pump.