Did you get a plate made for the Jesel stuff? Or did you go with a timing gear? Anyway my question, did you plug off the oil gallery hole? Or did you restrict it with a small oil feed hole? I just used a solid plug, no feed hole. I asked, and was told it can be done either way. Just curious on how you did it. The plate is machined with an oil groove, but appears splash isn't an issue.
Had a plate made and use a Jesel Belt drive. All is regular SBC stuff but as cam to crank distance is different there is an idler for the belt. Seems to work fine. I plugged the oil gallery with solid plug. There is a drain groove that runs from a hole in the front of the lifter gallery to the Torrington bearing front of the cam and then a drain groove that goes to the pan.
One thing I wonder about is oil drain back from the head to pan. All goes into the lifter gallery and there are no drain holes. I have a -6 AN hose plumbed into the back of the lifter gallery cover and to the suction of the dry sump pump. Wondering if this is enough ( I think so but have thought of no good way of checking.)
We must have the same plate. I think you got yours from the guy who designed it and I got mine from Al. I also had to make a spacer for the crank and cam. The bottom pulley went on to far, so it needed spaced out.
Did you use a regular shim for the cam adapter in the front? I did. I didn't need any shims behind the washer plate. I ended up with .004 with a shim and rear torrington. Sound like yours?
Got your PM. Next time through give me a call! Hope all is well.
I wouldn’t worry about the Big E intake. With EGTs between 250-300 different on 2-3 vs 1-4 with the unported intake by I-70 rules, well ported EFIs will eat them up. Big E intakes need to be ported and work best above 250 HP. I do like your thoughts on what constitutes an OEM head though . Good luck,
When I was the head porter at Faermans we raced an F/ED with Raymond Martin and it was a GM block that we had plugged the deck on and moved the lifter bores to accept a small block cylinder head, we originally ran a buick head and later moved to a 15 degree chevy, KRP makes a block now with the lifter bores tilted out and a chevy bolt pattern, that is the best route to take! Coans car is our old car and to my knowledge still runs the manifold we developed that uses 4 webber carbs, manifold is billet that we made at the shop and was an absolute nightmare to port! The old pontiac race head was cast by Brodix I believe and was "OK" at best, it was a 0 degree valve angle which produces very unique flow problems, we had tried about 20 different combinations of holleys on the 4 cylinders and the webbers were always better for us... the holleys would make better power at higher rpm's but lacked the torque down low to recover from the gear change and would tend to lay on the convertor after the shift which always resulted in a poor run. We also experienced issues with aerating the fuel I believe from the vibration that is involved with a 4 cylinder, as best as I can remember we usually made about 390 horsepower and 290 torque from our 183 inch motor, that was about 8 or 10 years ago. I just finished a 11 degree wedge head for another F/ED and hope for it to be considerably better than the stuff we had been doing that many years ago... I guess I will find out!
I ran one with a alot of success in the early 90s made a ton of torque and it was stock block I ran it in a AMC spirit. I had no problems with the block or crank and turned it 7400 with stock bottom end except pistons. Was the motor that came in the car. The reason alot of guys run the ford stuff is because its cheap. I had to also carry 200 pds more than them because we had to way 1 pd per cc.
cspeier wrote:We must have the same plate. I think you got yours from the guy who designed it and I got mine from Al. I also had to make a spacer for the crank and cam. The bottom pulley went on to far, so it needed spaced out.
Did you use a regular shim for the cam adapter in the front? I did. I didn't need any shims behind the washer plate. I ended up with .004 with a shim and rear torrington. Sound like yours?
Yes, the crank pulley needs a spacer (0.45" IIRC). I spent bunch of time measuring and when LSM made my cam, put enough nose on it so did not need spacer. I think it went together with no shims and just the Torrington behind and the Jesel bronze in front of the adapter. Whole deal done by Allyn Armstrong from Nova Scotia who runs an L/A Opel GT with 165" KRP/Splayed valve head. Last time I watched him run he was about .75 under his index.
I would fall in the 1 pound per cc rule as well. but most of the fords are bored and stroked to 2500-2550 cc anyway. so weight wise, we would be close.
Would the KRP block handle the extra power of a Turbo?
As i said in a previous post I have a few good small block Chev heads and thought this route would make a very powerful 4 cyl Turbo engine, and to be able to use the chevy heads that i have I think it would be superior to the OEM stuff that other 4 cyl Turbo's that run in Comp.
How much power do you think it could make Turbo'd and would it be worth the extra effort than going the OEM route?
I would fall in the 1 pound per cc rule as well. but most of the fords are bored and stroked to 2500-2550 cc anyway. so weight wise, we would be close.
Even having the extra 200 pds on my car still could still win and run up front. I know things are different then back when I ran them but still think they are a really good motor.
I have been using an Iron Duke 4 cylinder GM 151 2.5 Litre super duty engine in a hillclimb car for 25 years. it originally came with a 4 inch bore and
3 inch stroke ie 151 cu . As is it now displaces 202 cu in. one engine utilizes a super duty iron block the other is an arias alum unit. Both engines use a 4340 billet 3 15/16 stroke scat cranks. Both engines were top of the line builds w/sd (801) cyl hds and Kinsler 2 5/8 mech injection. On alch the engines were making 400 plus hp naturally aspirated. during the 80s these were extensivlly used in the midgets at 165 cu in. Anyone wanting more info contact me here on this site. I have a lot of good parts that need a home.
mlburgoon wrote: ↑Wed Jun 06, 2007 3:59 pm
is the 4-cyl pontiac (gm) iron duke motor a possibility to make a race motor out of. This would be the NON-SD motor. just the regular production block and crank.
BE CAREFUL if you're using a production cylinder head.
GM made over 200 changes to the Iron Turd over it's production life. Among the changes, they used the same cylinder head casting machined differently. If you install the wrong version of that casting onto the block, you may have overheating issues under load, but it idles fine.
Buddy of mine got caught-up in this. Correct casting number, wrong machining. Engine overheated every time he took the vehicle on the highway, then popped the head gasket.
. Good luck,
