Dry Sump Tank

[GarlandPerformance]

Building a street strip engine with dry sump system
And have plans to got to a mile run
How big of a oil tank should I be looking at

[BOOT]

Don't forget how much will be in the lines, so depends where are you gonna mount it?

[Tom68]

What's important to you ?

A gallon will do it if you want light weight and lack space.

[fabr]

Not that it means anything but my C7 vette holds 10 quarts. So does my prerunner . Seems to be a good number for endurance apps.

[Alaskaracer]

Call Peterson Fluid Systems and they will ensure you have the correct tank for your application.

[frnkeore]

For your application, I think you could get by with 6 qt, plus oil filter and cooler, total about 8 qt.

If you build your tank, it needs to be round and high. 6" round, 15" high, would be good for 6 qt. 1 1/2" of that would be expansion and oil return area.

A single baffle, about 6" off the bottom, with a single, center 1.5" hole and at the top oil level, a perforated piece of aluminum plate, for the return oil. with the return going into the side of the tank, above the perforations, so it can swirl, down onto the plate. Check ball breather in the cap.

I don't know your feed size but, the minimums are, outlet needs to be one AN size larger than it and the return one size larger than the tank outlet.

Also, you'll need a return filter, such as a Oberg.

8 qt would be 7" dia x 15" and 10 qt tank would be 8" dia x 15" tall, both giving a little more expansion area than the 6 qt tank.

[RCJ]

If you have the room bigger is better.i would start with a 12 quart tank.

[panic]

Much wisdom from frnkeore.
The returning oil will be aerated, with a volume increase, hence the larger line. Tall allows more time for bubbles to come out of suspension.
If you had the room, 2 ft tall would be better. Figure where you can put it, and start with the height. The feed line should be continuously down-hill to the pump inlet.
The diameter is whatever makes the right volume: D² × H × .7854 = volume as In³. Multiply by .0173 to get quarts, then add 1-2 quarts for expansion.

[PackardV8]

On a mile run, heat will likely not be the problem but drainback will. You should spend as much time insuring the oil will not stay in the rocker covers, valley and oil pan as is spend making pressure to get it up there. Scavenge stages and their location are critical.

You don't mention the engine type or displacement, but as the BBC and the LS have gotten exponentially larger in displacement with the block inner volume remaining the same, controlling crankcase pressure has become a challenge in long, high RPM operation. On the high horsepower/RPM versions of the LS, GM spent as much time and effort in controlling the inside pressures and flows as they did in making horsepower.

[panic]

As far as you know, can any of the LS oil control parts be fitted to low power versions?
IIRC others are mods to the bay separators.

[frnkeore]

You don't mention the engine type or displacement, but as the BBC and the LS have gotten exponentially larger in displacement with the block inner volume remaining the same, controlling crankcase pressure has become a challenge in long, high RPM operation. On the high horsepower/RPM versions of the LS, GM spent as much time and effort in controlling the inside pressures and flows as they did in making horsepower.

That's when you add extra savage stages to the pump and with that you can pull a vacuum on the crankcase.

Another thing that the tall tank does, is create a "head" or pressure to get the oil to the pump.