454 cooling issues

[prairiehotrodder]

[/quote]

You have an engine bay full of high pressure air, as high a pressure as the face of the radiator is seeing, you're in stall.
Of course your fans not wired backwards is it.

The other option is to cut the hood out further forward until you get to the back of the radiator, that should have low pressure there and pull some air through. The existing hood cutout is seeing high pressure from the Windscreen.
[/quote]

So i looked over the situation and I'm doubting that coolant flow is the problem. I easily could be wrong but i have to start somewhere and Tom's air-stall idea seems like its worth looking into. Here is my latest try.

DSC01507.JPG

DSC01511.JPG

thanks again for all the help. It rained here so i won't be able to test this for a few days.

Brian

[BLSTIC]

Buy a digital manometer and go for a drive with it attached to various points. You will soon find out where the best spots for scoops and vents are. They are cheap tools and airflow is not often intuitive

[BLSTIC]

It's also worth putting a temperature probe in that scoop. If air is coming out that scoop your carb will be sucking hot air.

[Tom68]

You have an engine bay full of high pressure air, as high a pressure as the face of the radiator is seeing, you're in stall.
Of course your fans not wired backwards is it.

The other option is to cut the hood out further forward until you get to the back of the radiator, that should have low pressure there and pull some air through. The existing hood cutout is seeing high pressure from the Windscreen.
[/quote]

So i looked over the situation and I'm doubting that coolant flow is the problem. I easily could be wrong but i have to start somewhere and Tom's air-stall idea seems like its worth looking into. Here is my latest try.

DSC01507.JPG



DSC01511.JPG

thanks again for all the help. It rained here so i won't be able to test this for a few days.

Brian
[/quote]

That'll make it worse.

[prairiehotrodder]

Thats not what i wanted to hear Tom. I guess if it doesn't work i'll keep trying. I called meziere today and asked about my water pump. Don Meziere seemed to want me to look into the airflow situation as well. He said that at about the 600 hp level i may need a bigger water pump for street driving. I don't know how much power this car has but i'm guessing 500 - 550 so not to far off his recomendation. My scoop is just a cheap stab at having a cowl induction which i was hoping to create the low pressure area behind the rad. I had the aluminum laying around so i thought it was worth a try.
Brian

[Tom68]

I do like it though.
You need to fill the rest of the front in so the engine bay is lower pressure.
At cruising speed your airflow is stalled, at race speed it's trying to blow your front fenders off.

[BLSTIC]

Also this kind of aero work can easily have an effect on stability, as the entire point of, say, an undertray is to alter under car pressure. You can end up with some combination of less high speed lift, less drag, and better cooling.

You can just as easily go backwards too...

[FC-Pilot]

You have an engine bay full of high pressure air, as high a pressure as the face of the radiator is seeing, you're in stall.
Of course your fans not wired backwards is it.

The other option is to cut the hood out further forward until you get to the back of the radiator, that should have low pressure there and pull some air through. The existing hood cutout is seeing high pressure from the Windscreen.
[/quote]

So i looked over the situation and I'm doubting that coolant flow is the problem. I easily could be wrong but i have to start somewhere and Tom's air-stall idea seems like its worth looking into. Here is my latest try.

DSC01507.JPG



DSC01511.JPG

thanks again for all the help. It rained here so i won't be able to test this for a few days.

Brian
[/quote]

In Arizona what we would notice is if the cowl hood was a good distance away from the windshield (four or more inches) it would create a low pressure that would allow under hood pressure to escape. When the cowl was nice and tight to the windshield it was in the high pressure area and would try to supply fresh air in which we would use for induction.

With what I see there is a good chance it will help with your cooling issue. I do agree that having the complete front end would help with cruising cooling.

Paul

[prairiehotrodder]

you guys will like what Don Meziere had to say :


That look quite problematic to me. The air has every reason not to go through the radiator. The huge cooler in front is blocking a good portion of it, your spoiler needs to go all the way across to create low pressure but that will not even work unless the factory bumper and panels are back in place. The absence of the bumper makes it possible for air to get behind the radiator and stall the air out. Sorry to say, you've got some work to do...

[Tuner]

......... and put a belt driven stock type pump back on it.

[Tom68]

prairiehotrodder

David Vizard did a video for you.

https://youtu.be/tPuDDjkYmCk

[prairiehotrodder]

prairiehotrodder

David Vizard did a video for you.

https://youtu.be/tPuDDjkYmCk

Thanks Tom, any chance you could pick out the hidden gems of tech and post them here ? Maybe we could all benefit ?

Brian

[F-BIRD'88]

A cowl induction hood scoop should be sealed to the carb/carb box.

[F-BIRD'88]

I guess a forward facing hood scokp should be sealed to the carb too.

[levisnteeshirt]

Water pump bypass plugged ? Heater core plumbed ?