People having any problems with these OE performance replacement lifter in the SHP block?
I built a new SHP hot street 427 combo recently (pre covid parts) and took a year and a half to build the the rest of the car. Put it all together and got it fired up after dozens of FITech failures, and headaches went to a Sniper and now she's running way better, and starts with no issues. BUT I got lifter noise like it's a solid cam, went from 1/8 turn preload (preparing for valves to get held open) They're at 1/2 turn now, still noisy. Shut off the motor and you can push on the heel of the rockers and the lifters feel spongey. ?? Some say go a full turn? Is that necessary?
Seems wrong and goes totally against my ways of the old school.
Yeah its noisy all the time, but slightly more noticeable when warm. Funny thing is that its not much difference, from the 1/8 turn setting to 1/2 turn. Which surprised me. I thought it would cure the noise.
Comp sells Generic lifters. I use Johnson lifters in my LS builds but there is no reason we are seeing these quality issues like we do. Its all marketing junk. They put their name on it and we buy it.
If you are "old school" you could have bought a comp XR solid roller street cam.
Very tame valvetrain noise when lash is set a hair tighter than cam card. eg: .012"-.014"
The lash stays set.
More go for the $$
Some people who get fed up with noisey inconsistant hyd roller lifters swap them out for solid roller lifters and set the valve lash very tight on their hyd roller cam.
.002"-.006" cold.
Seems it is touch and go on getting a set of hyd roller lifters that are consistant acceptable hyd bleed rate.
As posted the Johnson hyd rollers are more consistant.
You can order them in different bleed rates for purpose.
Tighter internal clearances reduce bleed down but can get infected with dirt in the oil.
Clean oil is essential.
You may want to remove your lifters, test them for bleed down rate, dissassemble and clean them.
Maybe Comp cams will help on this.
Call them FIRST for advice and warranty service consideration.
First try adjusting more hyd preload even if beyond 1 full turn.. (give it what it wants) The engine oil you use does have an effect on hyd lifter performance.
wheelsup330 wrote: ↑Fri May 19, 2023 6:17 pm
People having any problems with these OE performance replacement lifter in the SHP block?
I built a new SHP hot street 427 combo recently (pre covid parts) and took a year and a half to build the the rest of the car. Put it all together and got it fired up after dozens of FITech failures, and headaches went to a Sniper and now she's running way better, and starts with no issues. BUT I got lifter noise like it's a solid cam, went from 1/8 turn preload (preparing for valves to get held open) They're at 1/2 turn now, still noisy. Shut off the motor and you can push on the heel of the rockers and the lifters feel spongey. ?? Some say go a full turn? Is that necessary?
Seems wrong and goes totally against my ways of the old school.
What weight oil are you using? New lifters don't like thick oil, been there done that.
mag2555 wrote: ↑Fri May 19, 2023 6:29 pm
Is there noise with the engine oil cold right after start up?
Yes its basically noisy right from the time it lights off. Sounds like a solid cam. Run it till the thermostat is open and warmed up still not much change.
Tom68 wrote: ↑Fri May 19, 2023 8:36 pm
How long have you run it, sounds like the lifters haven't filled, not smothered in assembly grease like I see people using these days are they ?
Its been run about an hour now between all the FITECH issues and misc. Thats kinda what it acts like is that its not filling the lifters but it oils up all the pushrods real nice.
Negative on the spooge grease, I assemble my rotating parts with a light coat of TORCO MPZ assembly lube and / or straight 30wt aeroshell. Been doing this for +/- 40 years. No issues.
F-BIRD'88 wrote: ↑Fri May 19, 2023 9:09 pm
If you are "old school" you could have bought a comp XR solid roller street cam.
Very tame valvetrain noise when lash is set a hair tighter than cam card. eg: .012"-.014"
The lash stays set.
More go for the $$
Some people who get fed up with noisey inconsistant hyd roller lifters swap them out for solid roller lifters and set the valve lash very tight on their hyd roller cam.
.002"-.006" cold.
Seems it is touch and go on getting a set of hyd roller lifters that are consistant acceptable hyd bleed rate.
As posted the Johnson hyd rollers are more consistant.
You can order them in different bleed rates for purpose.
Tighter internal clearances reduce bleed down but can get infected with dirt in the oil.
Clean oil is essential.
You may want to remove your lifters, test them for bleed down rate, dissassemble and clean them.
Maybe Comp cams will help on this.
Call them FIRST for advice and warranty service consideration.
First try adjusting more hyd preload even if beyond 1 full turn.. (give it what it wants) The engine oil you use does have an effect on hyd lifter performance.
Just because I am old school doesn't mean its my choice to put a hydraulic cam in a motor. Its a customer that that is like gold in my shop. One way or another he's getting it fixed for whatever it takes me to make it right. He's a hit the key and go kinda guy. Polish and wax. I would have put a solid roller in it myself.
It has 30wt (Aeroshell 65) straight mineral break in oil in it. SO far in @40 years Ive never had any issue with this.
I put a full turn preload last night and it might have quieted down a touch but still has definite consistent valve tick just like Rhoads Lifters have
Thanks for your help sir.
On my 400. gyd flat tappet cam lifters were noticebly quieter once I changed out ghe breakin oil for Shell Rotella 15w40 .. 1 turn preload. These XE hyd cams are not noted to be perfec quiet at idle. The rotella T made a difference.
Like F-Bird stated the Comp XE profiles are very aggressive lobes and can be quite noisy. ACertain roller rockers are more noisy than others as well.
Any chance you could try a set of stud and ball rockers to see if they are any quieter?
