Deutsch Connector Tips

[chimpvalet]

Hello,

I'm having a go for the first time using Deutsch DTM connectors for a harness build, would be grateful for a bit of advice. I've put in plenty of time web searching the topic, with some truly worthwhile sites that were shared here in Speed-Talk yielding lots of info but nothing on whether pins or sockets can go on either plug or receptacle. Is there only one way to assemble these?

Cheers
Steve

[chimpvalet]

Just reviewed a 164 page document on Deutsch connectors, on p. 156 read that pins are usually placed in receptacle end, sockets in the plug. Interesting that this most elementary aspect goes unmentioned for the most part in the midst of a great deal of technical info.

". .usually. . . " Wow! Looking at the wedgelock for a receptacle with sockets locked in place and am inclined to think it's a no go dimensionally.

[dannobee]

I thought the male terminals went into the female receptacles. The sockets went into the flush male receptacles.

I've never tried the other way because I nearly always had a previous sample connector at my disposal. FWIW.

I like this wiring tutorial a lot, even though they focus on motorcycles. And there's a section on Deutsch DTM's.

https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html

[chimpvalet]

Thanks, Dannobee, I'm finding the terminals go together with connectors in the manner you describe.

[allencr267]

I'd go for which ever has the least chance of shorting, offers the most protection when disconnected.
Imagine your home with everything reversed, even if the wall receptacles recessed.

[hoodeng]

As has Allen has pointed out, making the female receptacles the active side of the harness is what is commonly used in the make of vehicle i am familiar with that uses DTP.

Deutsch connectors are quite robust, easy to assemble and easy to maintain.

Excellent link Dan.

[chimpvalet]

Yes, the Deutsch connectors are altogether fine. That linked site certainly is excellent, it's been my go-to for the work since Dannobee first shared it.

Thanks chaps!

[skinny z]

Although not a DTM style connector in particular, it's our experience with harnesses in general is that the socket/female connector bodies are in a shell that places the face flush with the end of the shell. The pin/male side has a hooded shell.
The business side of the harness, that is the connector that supplies the power is the socket side (much like a conventional extension cord). The male side is the portion of the wiring that connects directly to the device.
I believe that's explained as such above isn't it?

I'll be jumping into another harness for the Camaro soon and will be upgrading to modern connectors as opposed to the stuff from the early 80's.
Further to the DTM question, who has sourced what in terms of tooling? The choices are many and varied.
FWIW, there's a great thread partly contributed to an ex-Packard Power Division engineer. It's at Thirdgen.org.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-lsx ... rical.html

[chimpvalet]

Hey Kevin. I'll soon take delivery of some 3 conductor shielded Tefzel for the crank and cam position sensors plus the TPS. Need to decide whether gold plated terminals are needed for the engine end connectors. What do you think?

I've gotten on top of the Deutsch connector assembly procedure quite easily since getting straight on which housing gets either pins or sockets.

Cheers

[skinny z]

Hey Kevin. I'll soon take delivery of some 3 conductor shielded Tefzel for the crank and cam position sensors plus the TPS. Need to decide whether gold plated terminals are needed for the engine end connectors. What do you think?

I've gotten on top of the Deutsch connector assembly procedure quite easily since getting straight on which housing gets either pins or sockets.

Cheers

My qualifications notwithstanding:

We find gold plating in top shelf applications. Particularly in the audio field. Some of our OEM electronics (for CNC's) will have portions of the harness with gold plating. But it's rare to see.
In general automotive applications I wouldn't think that the connectivity would be improved one way or the other. The big deal is maintaining the weatherproof integrity of whatever it is you're assembling.
The former Packard engineer I mentioned adds heat shrink to an otherwise weatherproof assembly for even greater protection. Some of what he builds is quite remarkable.

While you're here, what did you end up with for tooling?
I've a couple controlled cycle crimpers however there not suitable for the DTM pins. I can manage the open barrel Weather Pack (some) and the good old closed barrel forks and rings for general wiring.

[chimpvalet]

Thanks. I agree that weatherproofing has to be paramount, looking at heat shrink boots for the engine end. For the broad range of routine crimps I've got 2 loaners from a hockey buddy who's a mechanic. I'll attach links for 2 closed barrel tools purchased cheap through Amazon. The GizWiz unit is good only for size 16 contacts, though I futzed it a bit attempting the size 20's for DTM series. Expect delivery of the iCrimp item tomorrow, specifically sized for the size 20 contacts.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07TW4X7JP/ref ... 75bf1&th=1

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0BNKK6KVV/ref ... s9dHJ1ZQ==

Cheers
Steve

[dannobee]

I used gold on the harness for my own car. In automotive manufacturing, the only place you (usually) see gold is on airbags.

Astro M22520/1 crimper for closed barrel crimps. Something like this.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/126200690671?_ ... 1901460774

[skinny z]

Being new to the Deutsche connector game am I seeing that they're available in both open and closed barrels?
The crimper posted above is for closed barrels (from the looks of it).
The crimper I have, which is marked for use with Deutsche terminals, is definitely for open barrels. Such as that of Metri Pack or Weather Pack style.

[chimpvalet]

Both of the loaner crimpers I have are for open contacts, the GizWiz and iCrimp are for closed barrel. I have done enough work building the largely new harness for my project toy so as to become quite handy. Either type will produce a good crimp if executed correctly. Lately working on the ECU harness has brought 20ga and 18ga into play and I find the 20 and smaller difficult to crimp well with open contacts, whereas the solid barrel type are straightforward. That's why I sprung for the 2 new tools, horses for courses.

Cheers

[skinny z]

I find the closed barrels much easier to work with as well.