Cranking compression results are in

[F-BIRD'88]

What car/truck boat is this LT1 enigine going into?

[cab0154]

an LT1 is reverse flow cooled. I had one of those too. Its even easier to keep it cool than something that cools the heads last. thermal equilibrium can be achieved when the you have the correct volume in the system for the desire temp.

[mt-engines]

You will never maintain 170 deg F water temp on a street driven car that you actually drive.
Reality.

My brothers 355 11.5:1 LT1 Buick Roadmaster never got above 170 on the hottest days in traffic. With a 160 stat.

Why do you just love to spew BS?

I have tall filled big blocks in vehicles that don't get over 200 degrees in traffic.. and no they don't have gigantic 4 core radiators or anything like that. If you are not a moron and use your brain, you can disregard all the BS people spew about overheating. And needing such large capacity cooling systems.. its usually a tuneup issue and/or many times oil temp issue.

[Warp Speed]

Our Cup engines are 12:1, and run on e15. It is a 98 octane fuel, which is basically pump gas with lock washers! Lol
At the Vegas race the 24 car had a garbage bag cover the front of the car. In the new car, this is also the engine air inlet. Inlet temps were 230f, and the water temp climbed to 350f, before he could pit and remove the bag. It finished the race and ran just as good when it came back as when it left.
In the late 80s, I built a 11:1 BBC for my 76 short box 4x4. It had 35in tires and a 3.73 gear. I could pull the race car and trailer, with the back loaded with all the pit equipment, over Snoqualmie pass at 80mph, with the water temp climbing over 200. It burned all the paint off of the torque converter, but never hurt the engine.
This same engine, when getting on it and revving it hard, would throw the wp belt off. I don't know how many times I woke up in the morning after a hard night of partying to find the belt gone.....and had no idea when it left! Lol
Oh to be young and stupid again.
Point being, this thread is being made into a joke with Firebird screaming from his soap box......as usual! Lol

[Tuner]

I have gone back and read the OP a couple times and don't fully understand what the question(s?) are the OP is asking, so SilverChicken would you read it again yourself and restate your case with a different interpretation, perhaps separate the ideas with paragraphs.

I think questions are about the 230 compression pressure and 11/1 CR, "is that too much?" Answer: no.

The use of a proper advance curve for best power and avoid knock is a non sequitur because that has been common practice since the invention of spark advance mechanisms.

A hundred years ago my Grandmothers knew what to do with the lever at the steering wheel to control timing as required to drive a Model T Ford, but that seems beyond the understanding of today's yoots.

[Tom68]

I have gone back and read the OP a couple times and don't fully understand what the question(s?) are the OP is asking, so SilverChicken would you read it again yourself and restate your case with a different interpretation, perhaps separate the ideas with paragraphs.

I think questions are about the 230 compression pressure and 11/1 CR, "is that too much?" Answer: no.

The use of a proper advance curve for best power and avoid knock is a non sequitur because that has been common practice since the invention of spark advance mechanisms.

A hundred years ago my Grandmothers knew what to do with the lever at the steering wheel to control timing as required to drive a Model T Ford, but that seems beyond the understanding of today's yoots.

Maybe he's concerned about compression ignition, maybe expecting to burn some oil. Dexos 1 gen 3 candidate.

[ClassAct]

You will never maintain 170 deg F water temp on a street driven car that you actually drive.
Reality.

You sure about that? I live in a high desert valley. In the summer we are over a hundred degrees a lot. I run my engine at 160. I can run it cooler than that but the defrost becomes ineffective and since its a STREET car and I drive it year round I need a defrost. Out here in the high desert valley we get down below zero. If it's dry I drive the car.

Once again, because you can't do something doesn't mean anything other than YOU can't do it. Maybe a long look in the mirror considering why people tell you the truth and you can't accept it.

You won't maintsin 170F on a 100F day. Stop dreaming.

LOL you fool. At stop lights that last for several minutes the temp will climb to 170. And that was on a 107 degree day. It never went past 170 and that was stuck at a light. Or maybe it was a train. Either way, I didn't shut it off. Never over 170. A few blocks down the road and it was back to
160.

You see, I don't listen to internet forum self proclaimed gurus who are stuck in decades past. I did the research to make DAMN SURE my cooling system was up to the task. I can run without a thermostat but it won't go over 140ish on a hundred degree day. At that temp I have zero heat to speak of.

Time to get off the internet and accept the fact that you don't have a clue WFT you are talking about.

[F-BIRD'88]

Ny stuf is based on real world. Way before the internet.
Had to help way too many friends that got wraped up in internet folk lore.. Real world stuff. I got friends with dynos that also know how to test., that agree.
They de-tune their xustomers stuf dor street pump gas and educate them on what works on pump gas andwhat works on 98,,.,- 100 octane big power tune up.Max perf with reliability. Stuff is expensive these days.

[Dave B]

Doh kay... ^^ That was tough to read..

[mt-engines]

Doh kay... ^^ That was tough to read..

What he's trying to say is, he knows other people that agree with him. Therefore he is right.

And everyone that has been doing it successfully is wrong.

[Dave B]

I kind of notice this practice on everything I read here. I would say about 90 percent are here to teach what they read and the other 10 percent are actually out doing it. To each their own if you can make money without touching a wrench or racing ? Then maybe the 10 percent are

[mt-engines]

I kind of notice this practice on everything I read here. I would say about 90 percent are here to teach what they read and the other 10 percent are actually out doing it. To each their own if you can make money without touching a wrench or racing ? Then maybe the 10 percent are

This should be a sticky! Top of the page!

[SilverChicken]

I have gone back and read the OP a couple times and don't fully understand what the question(s?) are the OP is asking, so SilverChicken would you read it again yourself and restate your case with a different interpretation, perhaps separate the ideas with paragraphs.

I think questions are about the 230 compression pressure and 11/1 CR, "is that too much?" Answer: no.

The use of a proper advance curve for best power and avoid knock is a non sequitur because that has been common practice since the invention of spark advance mechanisms.

A hundred years ago my Grandmothers knew what to do with the lever at the steering wheel to control timing as required to drive a Model T Ford, but that seems beyond the understanding of today's yoots.

Essentially, I know about what is safe for a traditional SBC but this gen2 LT1 is a departure from that. I don’t know what is a safe upper limit for an aluminum-headed LT1 intended to be driven on the street and mildly raced. I simply wanted to know if anyone out here had much experience with these engines and taking them well beyond stock and although they are capable of more, how much more? Is 11.5:1 with a mild cam too much? Is 230psi cranking too much? But then in the few helpful posts here, I realized, like DCR, that cranking compression isn’t a very good indicator of predet caused by running cylinder pressures and temps. I already understood that, and why, there are external factors that also change an engine’s detonation tolerance too, but I was looking for a little more basic guidance.

[mt-engines]

I have gone back and read the OP a couple times and don't fully understand what the question(s?) are the OP is asking, so SilverChicken would you read it again yourself and restate your case with a different interpretation, perhaps separate the ideas with paragraphs.

I think questions are about the 230 compression pressure and 11/1 CR, "is that too much?" Answer: no.

The use of a proper advance curve for best power and avoid knock is a non sequitur because that has been common practice since the invention of spark advance mechanisms.

A hundred years ago my Grandmothers knew what to do with the lever at the steering wheel to control timing as required to drive a Model T Ford, but that seems beyond the understanding of today's yoots.

Essentially, I know about what is safe for a traditional SBC but this gen2 LT1 is a departure from that. I don’t know what is a safe upper limit for an aluminum-headed LT1 intended to be driven on the street and mildly raced. I simply wanted to know if anyone out here had much experience with these engines and taking them well beyond stock and although they are capable of more, how much more? Is 11.5:1 with a mild cam too much? Is 230psi cranking too much? But then in the few helpful posts here, I realized, like DCR, that cranking compression isn’t a very good indicator of predet caused by running cylinder pressures and temps. I already understood that, and why, there are external factors that also change an engine’s detonation tolerance too, but I was looking for a little more basic guidance.

Well.. look at the towing capacity of a buick roadmaster.. those were cast iron headed engines.. and had to pass a warranty.

[mt-engines]

I have gone back and read the OP a couple times and don't fully understand what the question(s?) are the OP is asking, so SilverChicken would you read it again yourself and restate your case with a different interpretation, perhaps separate the ideas with paragraphs.

I think questions are about the 230 compression pressure and 11/1 CR, "is that too much?" Answer: no.

The use of a proper advance curve for best power and avoid knock is a non sequitur because that has been common practice since the invention of spark advance mechanisms.

A hundred years ago my Grandmothers knew what to do with the lever at the steering wheel to control timing as required to drive a Model T Ford, but that seems beyond the understanding of today's yoots.

Essentially, I know about what is safe for a traditional SBC but this gen2 LT1 is a departure from that. I don’t know what is a safe upper limit for an aluminum-headed LT1 intended to be driven on the street and mildly raced. I simply wanted to know if anyone out here had much experience with these engines and taking them well beyond stock and although they are capable of more, how much more? Is 11.5:1 with a mild cam too much? Is 230psi cranking too much? But then in the few helpful posts here, I realized, like DCR, that cranking compression isn’t a very good indicator of predet caused by running cylinder pressures and temps. I already understood that, and why, there are external factors that also change an engine’s detonation tolerance too, but I was looking for a little more basic guidance.

I pulled apart a 383 lt1 from a corvette. Was almost 13:1 and cranking was 285psi. It knocked the top ringlands off.. but were hypereutectic pistons.. he didn't have problems until he road raced it.